How to Replace the Alternator on a 2016 Lexus GS350 3.5L V6
Step-by-step DIY alternator swap with tools list, parts needed, safety tips, and charging voltage checks
How to Replace the Alternator on a 2016 Lexus GS350 3.5L V6
Step-by-step DIY alternator swap with tools list, parts needed, safety tips, and charging voltage checks
🔧 GS350 - Alternator Replacement
The alternator charges your battery and powers the electrical system while the engine runs. Replacing it involves disconnecting the battery, relieving the drive belt tension, unplugging the alternator wiring, and swapping the unit.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours
Assumption: stock GS350 3.5L layout; access is from top and below.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable first to prevent short circuits.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool; you’ll work near hot parts and the radiator.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid, level ground; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring; release connectors by their lock tabs.
- ⚠️ Keep tools away from the positive alternator stud; it can arc if the battery is connected.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 3" socket extension
- 6" socket extension
- Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
- Serpentine belt tool 14mm/17mm (specialty)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Alternator - Qty: 1
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
- Engine undercover/splash shield clips - Qty: 4-10
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
- Open the hood and note belt routing (take a photo). The serpentine belt is the single belt that drives multiple accessories.
- Plan for radio/window memory reset after battery disconnect.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp and remove it from the battery post.
- Move the cable aside so it can’t spring back to the terminal.
Step 2: Remove the engine undercover for lower access
- Raise the front of the car using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the front undercover/splash shield fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
- Set the cover and clips aside in a tray so nothing gets lost.
Step 3: Create top-side working room
- Remove the intake duct/air inlet pieces as needed using a flat-blade screwdriver (hose clamps) and 10mm socket (bolts).
- Take photos before disconnecting anything.
Step 4: Relieve serpentine belt tension
- Locate the belt tensioner. The belt tensioner is a spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight.
- Use a serpentine belt tool 14mm/17mm (specialty) or a 1/2" drive breaker bar with the correct 14mm socket or 17mm socket (whichever fits the tensioner) to rotate the tensioner and release belt tension.
- Slip the belt off the alternator pulley first, then slowly release the tensioner back to rest.
- If reusing the belt, keep it clean and don’t kink it.
Step 5: Disconnect alternator electrical connections
- Unplug the alternator regulator connector by pressing the lock tab (use needle-nose pliers only if needed, gently).
- Remove the rubber boot on the alternator B+ terminal.
- Use a 12mm socket to remove the nut on the B+ cable and remove the cable from the stud.
- Keep the nut with the cable so it doesn’t vanish.
Step 6: Unbolt and remove the alternator
- Support the alternator by hand from above or below (it’s heavier than it looks).
- Use a 14mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and 6" socket extension to remove the alternator mounting bolts.
- Work the alternator out through the easiest path (usually down and out with the undercover removed).
- If it feels stuck, lightly wiggle it free—do not pry against aluminum housings.
Step 7: Transfer parts (if applicable) and install the new alternator
- Compare old vs new alternator: mounting ears, pulley alignment, and electrical connector position.
- Position the new alternator and start all mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten mounting bolts using a 14mm socket and then torque wrench (10-200 Nm range) to the Lexus service manual specification: Torque to factory specification.
Step 8: Reconnect alternator wiring
- Install the B+ cable on the alternator stud and tighten with a 12mm socket, then finish with a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range): Torque to factory specification.
- Reinstall the rubber boot fully over the terminal.
- Plug in the regulator connector until it clicks.
Step 9: Reinstall the serpentine belt
- Route the belt according to your photo (or the under-hood belt routing label if equipped).
- Rotate the tensioner using the serpentine belt tool 14mm/17mm (specialty) or 1/2" drive breaker bar and slide the belt onto the alternator pulley last.
- Release the tensioner slowly and confirm the belt is fully seated in every pulley groove using a flashlight.
Step 10: Reassemble intake parts and reinstall the undercover
- Reinstall any intake ducting and clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver and 10mm socket.
- Reinstall the splash shield/undercover using a trim clip removal tool (for clips) and 10mm socket (for bolts): Torque to factory specification.
- Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
Step 11: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal and tighten with a 10mm socket: Torque to factory specification.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and confirm the charging warning light is off.
- Listen for belt squeal or chirping; if present, shut off and re-check belt seating with a flashlight.
- With the engine running, verify charging voltage using a DVOM if available: typically ~13.5V to 14.8V at the battery.
- Recheck for loose tools/fasteners and ensure the alternator B+ boot is fully covering the terminal.
- Reset clock/radio presets if they were lost.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $400-$550 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.0-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















