How to Replace the Alternator on a 2016 Kia Soul (1.6L)
Step-by-step alternator swap with tools list, belt routing tips, wiring steps, and torque specs
How to Replace the Alternator on a 2016 Kia Soul (1.6L)
Step-by-step alternator swap with tools list, belt routing tips, wiring steps, and torque specs


🔧 Soul - Alternator Replacement
The alternator charges your battery and powers the electrical system while the engine runs. Replacing it on your Soul involves disconnecting the battery, removing the drive belt, unbolting the alternator, and reinstalling everything with the belt routed correctly.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
Assumption: 1.6L non-turbo layout; bolt sizes may vary slightly.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Disconnect the negative battery cable first to prevent shorts.
- 🧤 Keep hands clear of the belt path; fingers can get pinched.
- 🔥 Work on a cool engine; the exhaust and radiator area can burn you.
- 🧯 Do not allow tools to bridge the alternator B+ terminal to ground.
- 🧰 If you lift the car, support it on jack stands on solid level ground.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm)
- Combination wrench set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm)
- Short extension (3")
- Long extension (6"-10")
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Serpentine belt tool or 14mm box wrench
- Small wire brush
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Alternator (remanufactured or new) - Qty: 1
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1 (recommended while you’re there)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- 🔑 Remove the key and keep it away from the car.
- 🔋 Plan to disconnect the battery: negative cable off first, on last.
- 📸 Take a quick photo of the belt routing before removal.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative (-) battery terminal clamp and remove it from the battery post.
- Tuck the cable aside so it cannot spring back onto the post.
Step 2: Remove the engine cover and/or intake snorkel (if equipped)
- Remove plastic clips with a trim clip removal tool and loosen any hose clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
- Lift the snorkel/cover out for working room.
Step 3: Raise the front-right corner (if needed for access)
- Lift with a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the front jacking point.
- Support the vehicle with jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Never work under a car on a jack.
Step 4: Remove the splash shield (if equipped)
- Remove the fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
- Set the shield and clips aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.
Step 5: Release tension and remove the serpentine belt
- Put a 14mm box wrench or serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner bolt.
- Rotate the tensioner to relieve tension, then slide the belt off the alternator pulley.
- Slowly release the tensioner back to its stop (do not let it snap).
- “Tensioner” = spring-loaded arm that tightens the belt.
Step 6: Disconnect alternator electrical connections
- Unplug the small alternator connector by pressing the lock tab (use needle-nose pliers only if needed).
- Remove the rubber boot over the main power stud (B+).
- Use a 12mm socket to remove the B+ terminal nut, then lift the cable off.
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the connector seal during reassembly (not on the metal contact).
Step 7: Unbolt and remove the alternator
- Support the alternator with one hand.
- Remove the alternator mounting bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet with a short extension (3") as needed.
- If a bolt is tight, use a 1/2" drive breaker bar for the initial crack-loose.
- Lift the alternator out of the engine bay (you may need to rotate it for clearance).
Step 8: Compare parts and transfer any brackets (if required)
- Set old and new alternators side-by-side and confirm: pulley alignment, plug style, and mounting ears.
- If a small bracket or heat shield must be swapped, remove/install it using the same size socket (commonly 10mm socket).
- Clean mounting surfaces lightly with a small wire brush.
Step 9: Install the new alternator and torque bolts
- Position the alternator and start all mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten the mounting bolts with a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range): Torque to 45-55 Nm (33-41 ft-lbs).
- If your alternator has an additional bracket bolt, tighten it to: Torque to 20-30 Nm (15-22 ft-lbs).
- Hand-starting bolts prevents expensive thread damage.
Step 10: Reconnect alternator wiring
- Install the main B+ cable and nut using a 12mm socket: Torque to 9-12 Nm (80-106 in-lbs).
- Reinstall the rubber boot over the stud.
- Plug in the alternator connector until it clicks.
- If corrosion is present, clean the ring terminal gently with a small wire brush.
Step 11: Reinstall the serpentine belt
- Route the belt according to the under-hood diagram (or your photo).
- Rotate the tensioner with a 14mm box wrench or serpentine belt tool and slip the belt onto the alternator pulley last.
- Visually confirm the belt is seated fully in every pulley groove.
Step 12: Reinstall splash shield and lower the car
- Reinstall fasteners using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
- Raise slightly with the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum), remove jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum), and lower the vehicle.
Step 13: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm socket (snug, do not overtighten).
- Optional: apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease around the outside of the terminal to slow corrosion.
✅ After Repair
- 🔎 Start the engine and watch the belt for smooth tracking (no wobble, no squeal).
- ⚡ If you have a multimeter, check charging voltage at the battery with engine running: roughly 13.5-14.7V.
- 👂 Listen for abnormal noises near the alternator (grinding/whining suggests a bad pulley or misalignment).
- 🧼 Recheck the B+ boot is fully covering the power stud.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















