🔧 Regal - Alternator Replacement

The alternator charges your battery and powers the electrical system while the engine runs. Replacing it means disconnecting the battery, removing the serpentine belt, unbolting the alternator, and reinstalling everything with the belt routed correctly.

Assumption: Stock 2.0L turbo layout; access may be from top and/or right-front wheel well.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable first to prevent a short.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool; the turbo and exhaust area get extremely hot.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands if you go through the wheel well; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep tools away from the alternator’s main power stud; it is direct battery power.
• ⚠️ Wear eye protection when working under the car and around the belt.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Socket set 8mm-18mm
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Torx T20 driver
• Torx T25 driver
• Flat trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pliers
• Serpentine belt tool 15mm (specialty)
• Torque wrench 10-150 Nm
• Small pick tool
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Alternator - Qty: 1
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
• Electrical terminal nut and boot (if damaged) - Qty: 1
• Fender liner clips (push clips) - Qty: 4-8

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the ignition off, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Open the hood and remove any loose jewelry (rings/watches).
• Take a quick photo of the belt routing sticker (or draw the belt path) before removing the belt.
• If you’ll access from the wheel well, slightly loosen the right-front lug nuts before lifting the car.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
• Remove the negative cable and tuck it aside so it cannot spring back.
• This prevents accidental sparks and blown fuses.
• Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs) when reinstalling the terminal.

Step 2: Remove the engine cover and intake ducting (as needed)

• Pull up on the engine cover to release it (it’s held by rubber grommets).
• Use a flathead screwdriver and/or 8mm socket to loosen hose clamps on the intake duct.
• Use pliers to release any spring clamps on small hoses.
• Set the intake duct/air tube aside for working room.

Step 3: Raise the right-front corner (if wheel-well access is needed)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper jacking point and lift the right-front corner.
• Set the car down on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the right-front wheel using an 18mm socket.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 Nm later to tighten the lug nuts.
• Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) for wheel lug nuts.

Step 4: Remove the right-front splash shield / fender liner section

• Use a Torx T20 driver/Torx T25 driver to remove liner screws.
• Use a flat trim clip tool to pop out plastic push-clips without breaking them.
• Fold the liner back to expose the serpentine belt area.

Step 5: Release serpentine belt tension

• Locate the belt tensioner (spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight).
• Fit a 15mm socket on a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive or use a serpentine belt tool 15mm (specialty).
• Rotate the tensioner to relieve belt tension, then slide the belt off the alternator pulley.
• Slowly release the tensioner back to its resting position.
• Take a photo before the belt comes off.

Step 6: Unplug the alternator electrical connectors

• From the top or wheel well (whichever gives access), locate the alternator rear connectors.
• Remove the protective rubber boot from the main power stud.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the main power cable nut from the alternator stud.
• Unplug the small regulator connector by releasing the lock tab with a small pick tool (a pick is a pointed hook tool used to lift stubborn tabs).
• Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs) for the alternator B+ terminal nut on reassembly.

Step 7: Remove the alternator mounting bolts

• Support the alternator with one hand while you remove the bolts.
• Use a 13mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the alternator mounting bolts (quantity varies by bracket).
• If a bolt is tight, switch to a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive carefully.
• Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) for alternator mounting bolts during installation.

Step 8: Remove the alternator from the engine bay

• Work the alternator out of the bracket and maneuver it out through the top or wheel well opening.
• If it feels “stuck,” gently wiggle it—do not pry hard on aluminum parts.
• Use a flashlight to watch for wiring snagging.

Step 9: Install the new alternator

• Set the new alternator into place and start all mounting bolts by hand (this prevents cross-threading).
• Tighten bolts with a ratchet 3/8-inch drive, then final tighten with a torque wrench 10-150 Nm.
• Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) for alternator mounting bolts.

Step 10: Reconnect alternator wiring

• Install the main power cable onto the alternator stud and tighten using a 13mm socket.
• Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs) for the B+ terminal nut.
• Reinstall the rubber boot fully over the terminal.
• Plug in the small regulator connector until it clicks.

Step 11: Reinstall the serpentine belt

• Route the belt exactly like your photo/diagram.
• Use a 15mm socket with a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive (or serpentine belt tool 15mm (specialty)) to rotate the tensioner.
• Slip the belt over the alternator pulley last, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Visually check the belt is centered on every pulley groove.
• Misaligned belt = squeal or belt thrown off.

Step 12: Reinstall splash shield, wheel, intake, and engine cover

• Reinstall the fender liner using a Torx T20 driver/Torx T25 driver and any clips with a flat trim clip tool.
• Reinstall the wheel using an 18mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Final tighten wheel lug nuts using a torque wrench 10-150 Nm: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the intake duct with an 8mm socket and tighten clamps snugly.
• Press the engine cover back into its grommets.

Step 13: Reconnect the battery

• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the battery/charging warning light is off.
• Listen for belt squeal or chirping; shut off and re-check belt alignment if you hear noise.
• If you have a voltmeter, check charging voltage at the battery: typically around 13.5–14.8V with the engine running.
• Recheck for loose tools, loose wiring, and any oil/coolant leaks you may have disturbed.
• After a short test drive, recheck the belt position and look for any rubbing on the liner.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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