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2017 Nissan Altima
2013 - 2018 Nissan Altima
Inline 4 2.5L Sedan
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  • How to Replace the Alternator on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)
How to Replace Alternator 2012-2018 Nissan Altima 2.5L L4

How to Replace Alternator 2012-2018 Nissan Altima 2.5L L4

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10mm
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or (3/8")
12mm
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or (7/16")
14mm
14mm
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or (17/32")
17mm
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How to Replace the Alternator on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, belt routing, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

How to Replace the Alternator on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, belt routing, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

Orion
Orion

🔧 Altima - Alternator Replacement

The alternator charges the battery and powers the electrical system while the engine is running. On your Altima, the alternator is mounted low on the front/passenger side of the 2.5L engine and is driven by the serpentine belt.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the alternator wiring. The alternator has a direct battery power cable.
  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before working near the belt, radiator fan, or exhaust area.
  • ⚠️ Support your Altima securely with jack stands if you raise the front end. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Keep fingers, tools, and clothing away from the serpentine belt path.
  • ⚠️ If the battery warning light was on, charge and test the battery after the repair. A weak battery can damage a new alternator.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
  • Serpentine belt tool with 14mm adapter (specialty)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs
  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Battery terminal brush
  • Digital multimeter
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Alternator - Qty: 1
  • Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
  • Battery terminal corrosion protectant - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Altima on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • 🧊 Let the engine cool fully before starting.
  • 🔋 Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket. A negative cable is usually marked with a minus symbol.
  • 🧠 If the radio presets or clock matter to you, write them down before disconnecting the battery.
  • 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before raising the front of the car.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
  • Lift the negative cable off the battery post and move it aside so it cannot spring back.
  • Use a battery terminal brush to clean corrosion from the battery post and cable end if needed.
  • Always disconnect negative first.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

  • Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the front of your Altima at the front center jacking point.
  • Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front side pinch weld support points.
  • Gently lower the vehicle onto the stands and lightly shake the car to confirm it is stable.
  • Wear safety glasses before working underneath.

Step 3: Remove the Passenger-Side Lower Splash Shield

  • Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic push clips from the passenger-side lower splash shield.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove any lower shield bolts.
  • Pull the shield down and set it aside.
  • A splash shield is the plastic cover under the engine that blocks water and road debris.

Step 4: Note the Serpentine Belt Routing

  • Use your phone to take a clear photo of the belt path before removing it.
  • The serpentine belt is the long ribbed belt that drives the alternator, A/C compressor, and other pulleys.
  • Make sure the photo shows how the belt wraps around every pulley.
  • A photo prevents routing mistakes.

Step 5: Release Belt Tension

  • Place the serpentine belt tool with 14mm adapter on the automatic belt tensioner.
  • The tensioner is a spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight.
  • Rotate the tensioner to relieve belt tension.
  • Slide the belt off the alternator pulley first, then slowly release the tensioner.
  • Remove the belt from the engine bay if you are replacing it.

Step 6: Disconnect the Alternator Electrical Connectors

  • Use a flathead screwdriver gently to release the small alternator connector lock, then unplug the connector by hand.
  • Pull back the rubber boot from the large alternator battery cable terminal.
  • Use a 12mm socket to remove the nut from the large battery cable terminal.
  • Lift the cable off the stud and position it away from the alternator.
  • Do not pull on wires.

Step 7: Remove the Alternator Mounting Bolts

  • Support the alternator with one hand while removing the bolts.
  • Use a 14mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the upper alternator mounting bolt.
  • Use a 14mm socket to remove the lower alternator mounting bolt.
  • If access is tight, use the 17mm socket only where needed for bracket clearance hardware.
  • Keep the bolts in order so they return to the same locations.

Step 8: Remove the Alternator

  • Work the alternator out through the passenger-side lower opening.
  • Use both hands and take your time. The alternator is heavier than it looks.
  • If it sticks in the bracket, gently rock it by hand until it loosens.
  • Do not pry hard against aluminum engine brackets.

Step 9: Compare the New Alternator

  • Place the old and new alternator side by side.
  • Confirm the pulley, mounting ears, electrical connector, and battery terminal are in the same positions.
  • If the replacement alternator uses a protective cap on the battery terminal, remove it before installation.

Step 10: Install the New Alternator

  • Guide the new alternator into the bracket from the lower passenger-side opening.
  • Start both mounting bolts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
  • Use a 14mm socket to snug the mounting bolts evenly.
  • Use a torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs and 14mm socket to tighten the alternator mounting bolts to Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reconnect the Alternator Wiring

  • Install the large battery cable onto the alternator output stud.
  • Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs to tighten the terminal nut to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
  • Push the rubber protective boot fully over the terminal.
  • Plug in the small alternator connector until it clicks.

Step 12: Install the Serpentine Belt

  • Route the new serpentine belt around the pulleys using your photo as a guide.
  • Use the serpentine belt tool with 14mm adapter to rotate the belt tensioner again.
  • Slide the belt over the alternator pulley last.
  • Slowly release the tensioner.
  • Check that the belt ribs sit fully inside every pulley groove.
  • Misaligned belts shred quickly.

Step 13: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

  • Position the passenger-side lower splash shield back in place.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool to reinstall the plastic push clips.
  • Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the lower shield bolts.
  • Tighten the small shield bolts snug only; do not overtighten plastic panels.

Step 14: Lower the Vehicle

  • Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to slightly raise the front of your Altima off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
  • Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.

Step 15: Reconnect the Battery

  • Apply battery terminal corrosion protectant to the cleaned terminal if available.
  • Install the negative battery cable onto the negative battery post.
  • Use a 10mm socket to tighten the clamp until secure.
  • Do not overtighten; battery posts can crack.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start the engine and confirm the battery warning light turns off.
  • ✅ Use a digital multimeter at the battery terminals. With the engine running, charging voltage should typically read about 13.5-14.8 volts.
  • ✅ Turn on headlights, blower motor, and rear defroster, then confirm the engine keeps running smoothly.
  • ✅ Listen for belt squeal or chirping. If you hear noise, shut the engine off and recheck belt alignment.
  • ✅ Reset the clock and radio presets if they were lost after battery disconnect.
  • ✅ If warning lights remain on, scan for codes and test the battery condition before driving far.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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