How to Replace the Alternator on a 2013-2017 Nissan Altima (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and charging checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace the Alternator on a 2013-2017 Nissan Altima (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and charging checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Altima - Alternator Replacement
Replacing the alternator on your Altima means removing the drive belt, disconnecting the charging wires, unbolting the alternator, and installing the new unit. The alternator keeps the battery charged while the engine runs, so a failing one can cause battery lights, dim lights, stalling, or no-start issues.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. The alternator has a direct battery power wire that can spark if touched to metal.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before working near the radiator, belt, and exhaust-side components.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers, clothing, and tools away from the belt path. The serpentine belt drives several engine accessories.
- ⚠️ Support the front of the vehicle with jack stands if you raise it. Never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ The belt tensioner is spring-loaded. A belt tensioner tool gives extra reach and control when releasing belt tension.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- Serpentine belt tensioner tool (specialty)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Work gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Alternator - Qty: 1
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
- Battery terminal corrosion protector - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Altima on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before lifting the front.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket. Move the cable away from the battery post so it cannot spring back.
- If your radio or clock settings are important, note them before disconnecting the battery.
- Take a photo of the belt routing before removal. This helps during reinstallation.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Altima at the front center jacking point.
- Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.
- Never work under only a jack.
Step 2: Remove the Right Front Splash Shield
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips from the right front lower splash shield.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any 10mm bolts holding the shield.
- Pull the splash shield down and out of the way.
- This gives access to the lower belt and alternator area.
Step 3: Remove the Engine Cover if Equipped
- Lift the plastic engine cover upward by hand if it uses rubber grommets.
- If fasteners are present, remove them with a 10mm socket.
- Set the cover aside in a safe place.
Step 4: Release Serpentine Belt Tension
- Locate the automatic belt tensioner. The tensioner is the spring-loaded pulley that keeps the belt tight.
- Fit the serpentine belt tensioner tool or 1/2-inch drive breaker bar onto the tensioner drive point.
- Rotate the tensioner slowly to relieve belt tension.
- Slide the belt off the alternator pulley first, then slowly release the tensioner.
- Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys.
- Take a belt-routing photo first.
Step 5: Disconnect the Alternator Electrical Connector
- Find the small alternator plug on the rear of the alternator.
- Press the locking tab by hand or gently with a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Pull the connector straight off. Do not pull on the wires.
Step 6: Disconnect the Alternator Battery Cable
- Lift the rubber protective boot from the alternator output terminal.
- Use a 12mm socket to remove the nut from the battery cable terminal.
- Remove the cable from the stud and move it aside.
- Do not let the cable touch metal, even with the battery disconnected.
Step 7: Remove Alternator Mounting Bolts
- Support the alternator with one hand so it does not drop when the last bolt comes out.
- Use a 14mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to loosen and remove the alternator mounting bolts.
- If the upper bolt is tight, use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar with the correct socket for controlled force.
- Keep the bolts organized so they go back in the same locations.
Step 8: Remove the Alternator from the Engine Bay
- Work the alternator carefully out of its bracket.
- If it is stuck in the bracket, rock it gently by hand while pulling outward.
- Guide it out through the available space near the right side/lower access area.
- Do not force it against the radiator or A/C lines.
Step 9: Compare the New Alternator
- Place the old and new alternators side by side.
- Confirm the pulley size, electrical plug location, mounting ears, and battery terminal position match.
- If the new alternator has protective caps, remove only the caps needed for installation.
Step 10: Install the New Alternator
- Slide the new alternator into the mounting bracket by hand.
- Start all mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Cross-threading means the bolt enters crooked and damages the threads.
- Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the bolts.
- Use a torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs to tighten the alternator mounting bolts to Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Reconnect the Alternator Wiring
- Install the battery cable onto the alternator output stud.
- Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs to tighten the output terminal nut to Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
- Push the rubber protective boot fully over the terminal.
- Reconnect the small electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 12: Install the Serpentine Belt
- Route the belt around the crankshaft pulley, A/C compressor pulley, power steering pulley if equipped, and idler pulleys according to your photo or belt diagram.
- Leave the alternator pulley for last.
- Use the serpentine belt tensioner tool or 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to rotate the tensioner.
- Slip the belt over the alternator pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
- Check that the belt ribs sit fully in every pulley groove.
- One rib off can shred the belt.
Step 13: Reinstall the Splash Shield
- Position the right front splash shield back into place.
- Install the plastic clips by hand.
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any 10mm bolts.
- Snug the small splash shield bolts only. Do not overtighten plastic panels.
Step 14: Lower the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
- Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.
Step 15: Reconnect the Battery
- Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket to tighten the terminal clamp until secure.
- Apply battery terminal corrosion protector to the terminal after tightening.
- Do not overtighten the clamp. It only needs to be snug and unable to twist by hand.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and listen for belt squeal, scraping, or grinding.
- ✅ Watch the belt while the engine idles. It should run straight and smooth on all pulleys.
- ✅ Confirm the battery warning light turns off after startup.
- ✅ If you have a meter, charging voltage at the battery should usually be about 13.5-14.8 volts with the engine running.
- ✅ Turn on headlights, blower motor, and rear defroster, then confirm the engine continues to idle normally.
- ✅ Recheck the belt routing and alternator wiring after the first short drive.
- ✅ Reset clock, radio presets, and one-touch window function if needed. For the window, hold the switch fully up for a few seconds after closing.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $220-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $300-$500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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