🔧 Challenger - Alternator Replacement

The alternator charges the battery and powers the electrical system while the engine runs. Replacing it on your Challenger mainly involves disconnecting the battery, removing the serpentine belt (the single long belt that drives accessories), and swapping the alternator.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the alternator wiring.
• Let the engine cool; the front of the engine and nearby exhaust parts can burn you.
• Keep fingers and tools away from the belt path; the tensioner is spring-loaded.
• Support the car securely if you raise it; never rely on a jack alone.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension set
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Alternator - Qty: 1
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1 Smart to replace if worn
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 Helps protect electrical connection

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, place the transmission in neutral, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Open the hood and identify the serpentine belt routing. Take a quick photo
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative (–) terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Create working room at the front of the engine

• Remove the engine cover (if equipped) by lifting it straight up by hand.
• If the intake tube/airbox is blocking access, loosen clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver and remove any retaining clips using a trim clip removal tool, then move the tube/box out of the way.

Step 2: Release serpentine belt tension

• Locate the belt tensioner (spring-loaded pulley arm that keeps belt tight).
• Install a 15mm socket on the tensioner bolt and use a 1/2" drive breaker bar to rotate the tensioner to relieve belt tension.
• Slip the belt off the alternator pulley first, then slowly release the tensioner back to its resting position.
• If you’re reusing the belt, set it aside so it stays clean and oriented the same direction.

Step 3: Disconnect alternator electrical connections

• On the back of the alternator, unplug the field connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling straight off (use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if the lock is stubborn).
• Remove the main power (B+) cable nut using a 13mm socket, then lift the ring terminal off.
• Reinstall the nut on the alternator stud a few turns so you don’t lose it.

Step 4: Remove the alternator mounting bolts

• Support the alternator with one hand.
• Remove the alternator mounting bolts using a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 3/8" drive extension as needed.
• Lift the alternator out of the engine bay.

Step 5: Install the new alternator

• Set the new alternator into position and start all mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the alternator mounting bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench. Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Reconnect alternator wiring

• Install the main B+ cable ring terminal on the alternator stud and tighten the nut using a 13mm socket and torque wrench. Torque to 13 Nm (115 in-lbs)
• Add a light dab of dielectric grease to the field connector seal area (not inside the metal pins), then plug it in until it clicks.

Step 7: Reinstall the serpentine belt

• Route the belt according to your photo (or the belt routing label if present).
• Use a 15mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar to rotate the tensioner again, slip the belt over the alternator pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Visually confirm the belt is seated in every pulley groove (no ribs hanging off the edge). Misalignment ruins belts fast

Step 8: Reassemble intake/cover and reconnect battery

• Reinstall the intake tube/airbox and clips using a trim clip removal tool and tighten clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket. Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
• Reinstall the engine cover (if removed) by pressing it down onto the mounting grommets.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and listen for belt squeal or slapping. Shut it off immediately if you hear loud chirping and re-check belt alignment.
• With the engine idling, verify charging voltage at the battery is roughly 13.5–14.7V using a multimeter.
• Check for a battery/charging warning light on the dash.
• After a short test drive, recheck that the belt is still centered on every pulley.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$520 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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