How to Replace the Alternator on a 2011-2019 Ford Explorer (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips
How to Replace the Alternator on a 2011-2019 Ford Explorer (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Explorer - Alternator Replacement
The alternator on your Explorer charges the battery and powers the electrical system while the engine is running. This job involves removing the serpentine belt, disconnecting the electrical connections, and unbolting the alternator from the front of the engine.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the alternator wiring. This prevents sparks and electrical damage.
- The engine bay can be hot. Let the engine cool fully before starting.
- The serpentine belt is spring-loaded. Keep fingers clear when releasing belt tension.
- If your Explorer has a battery monitoring system, restore the battery connection carefully after installation.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- Ratchet
- Short extension
- Breaker bar
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Torque wrench
- Flathead screwdriver
- Trim clip tool
- Jack and jack stands
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Alternator - Qty: 1
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
- Alternator mounting bolts - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool down before working near the belt and pulleys.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using an 8mm socket.
- If the under-engine splash shield blocks access, remove it before starting.
- Take a photo of the belt routing first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the battery
- Use an 8mm socket to remove the negative battery cable from the battery terminal.
- Set the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
Step 2: Remove the splash shield if equipped
- Use a trim clip tool and 8mm socket to remove the lower engine cover or splash shield.
- Keep all fasteners organized for reassembly.
Step 3: Release belt tension
- Use a serpentine belt tool (specialty) or 15mm socket on the tensioner.
- Rotate the tensioner to loosen the belt, then slip the belt off the alternator pulley.
- Route the belt out slowly.
Step 4: Remove the alternator electrical connectors
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the main battery cable nut from the alternator terminal.
- Remove the electrical connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling it straight off.
- Move the wiring aside so it will not snag during removal.
Step 5: Remove the alternator mounting bolts
- Use a 15mm socket, short extension, and ratchet to remove the alternator bolts.
- Support the alternator with one hand as you remove the last bolt.
- Torque on installation: 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs)
Step 6: Remove the alternator
- Lift the alternator out of the engine bay.
- If it binds, gently wiggle it free without forcing the wiring or brackets.
Step 7: Install the new alternator
- Position the new alternator in place by hand.
- Install the mounting bolts finger-tight first.
- Use a 15mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connections
- Reconnect the wiring connector until it clicks.
- Install the battery cable on the alternator with a 10mm socket.
- Torque the terminal nut to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
Step 9: Reinstall the serpentine belt
- Use the serpentine belt tool (specialty) or 15mm socket to rotate the tensioner again.
- Route the belt over the alternator pulley and confirm it sits in every pulley groove.
- Check the belt ribs carefully.
Step 10: Reinstall the splash shield and reconnect power
- Reinstall the lower cover using the trim clip tool and 8mm socket.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable with an 8mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and listen for belt squeal or pulley noise.
- Check that the battery warning light is off.
- Use a multimeter at the battery terminals if available; charging voltage should be about 13.5-14.8 volts with the engine running.
- Inspect the belt path one more time after a short test drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $220-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $430-$600 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Alternator replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2018 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2017 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2016 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2015 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2014 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2013 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2012 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2011 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |















