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2009 Nissan Altima
2009 Nissan Altima
Base - Inline 4 2.5L
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2009 Altima  2.5L Alternator Replacement

2009 Altima 2.5L Alternator Replacement

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How to Replace the Alternator on a 2009 Nissan Altima (Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs to swap the alternator and verify charging voltage

How to Replace the Alternator on a 2009 Nissan Altima (Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs to swap the alternator and verify charging voltage

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Orion Logo White

šŸ”§ Altima - Alternator Replacement

The alternator charges the battery and powers the electrical system while the engine runs. On your Altima, replacement involves disconnecting the battery, removing the drive belt from the alternator pulley, unplugging the wiring, and swapping the alternator.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours


āš ļø Safety & Precautions

  • āš ļø Disconnect the negative battery cable first to prevent a short at the alternator B+ terminal.
  • āš ļø Never let a tool touch the alternator B+ post and metal at the same time.
  • āš ļø Support the car with jack stands if you go underneath; never rely on a jack alone.
  • āš ļø Work on a cool engine; the radiator and exhaust area can burn you.

šŸ”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Breaker bar 3/8" drive
  • Ratchet 3/8" drive
  • Socket set 8mm-19mm
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 10mm wrench
  • 12mm wrench
  • 14mm wrench
  • Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
  • Flat trim tool
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Flashlight
  • Digital multimeter

šŸ”© Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Alternator - Qty: 1
  • Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
  • Battery terminal anti-corrosion pads - Qty: 2

šŸ“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Open the hood and keep the key away from the car.
  • If you’ll lift the front-right side, place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Take a photo of the belt routing first.

šŸ”Ø Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

  • Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
  • Remove the negative cable and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 2: Create access to the alternator

  • Remove the upper air duct/intake snorkel if it blocks your hands.
  • Use a Phillips screwdriver and flat trim tool to remove any clips/screws holding the duct.
  • If you need more room from below, lift the front-right of the car using a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
  • Remove the front-right wheel using a 19mm socket.
  • Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) when reinstalling wheel lug nuts.
  • Remove the splash shield section (if equipped) using the flat trim tool and 10mm socket.

Step 3: Remove the serpentine belt from the alternator

  • Locate the belt auto-tensioner.
  • Use a 14mm socket with a breaker bar 3/8" drive to rotate the tensioner and relieve belt tension.
  • Slide the belt off the alternator pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
  • Don’t let the tensioner snap back.
  • Tip: The ā€œauto-tensionerā€ is a spring-loaded pulley that keeps the belt tight automatically.

Step 4: Disconnect alternator wiring

  • Unplug the small alternator electrical connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling it off by hand.
  • Pull back the rubber boot on the alternator B+ terminal.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove the B+ terminal nut and lift the cable off.
  • Torque to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs) when reinstalling the B+ terminal nut.

Step 5: Remove the alternator

  • Remove the alternator mounting bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8" drive.
  • Support the alternator with your free hand as the last bolt comes out.
  • Work the alternator out of the bracket and remove it from the top or bottom—whichever clears best.

Step 6: Install the new alternator

  • Set the new alternator into place and start all mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten the alternator mounting bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
  • Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) for alternator mounting bolts.

Step 7: Reconnect alternator wiring

  • Install the B+ cable onto the alternator stud and tighten the nut using a 10mm socket.
  • Torque to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs) for the B+ terminal nut.
  • Reinstall the rubber boot over the terminal.
  • Plug in the small electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 8: Reinstall the serpentine belt

  • Route the belt according to the under-hood belt diagram (or your photo).
  • Rotate the tensioner with a 14mm socket and breaker bar 3/8" drive, then slide the belt onto the alternator pulley.
  • Release the tensioner slowly.
  • Visually confirm the belt is centered on every pulley groove.

Step 9: Reassemble and reconnect the battery

  • Reinstall the splash shield using the 10mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, and flat trim tool.
  • Reinstall the wheel using a 19mm socket and snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Lower the car, then torque lug nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm wrench.

āœ… After Repair

  • Start the engine and confirm the battery/charge warning light is off.
  • Use a digital multimeter at the battery terminals: engine running should typically read about 13.8-14.7V.
  • Listen for belt squeal; if present, shut off and re-check belt routing and seating.
  • Recheck for loose tools/wiring near the belt and pulleys.

šŸ’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.


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