🔧 Kona - A/C Compressor Replacement

On your Kona, replacing the A/C compressor is a mechanical swap plus a sealed refrigerant-system service (recover, vacuum, and recharge). The job can’t be done correctly (or legally/safely) without properly recovering the refrigerant and pulling a deep vacuum before recharging.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Refrigerant must be recovered with approved equipment; do not vent to air.
• ⚠️ Wear eye protection and gloves; liquid refrigerant can cause frostbite.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of A/C lines; cap/plug openings immediately.
• ⚠️ Allow engine to cool; you’ll work near hot components.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended before unplugging the compressor.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Metric socket set 8mm–19mm
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• Trim clip remover
• Phillips screwdriver
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• A/C manifold gauge set (specialty)
• Vacuum pump (specialty)
• Refrigerant recovery machine (specialty)
• Refrigerant scale (specialty)
• Line (flare-nut) wrench set metric (specialty)
• O-ring pick set
• Shop rags

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• A/C compressor (correct for Kona 1.6T AWD) - Qty: 1
• A/C compressor manifold O-ring set - Qty: 1
• PAG A/C oil (correct viscosity for Kona) - Qty: 1
• Refrigerant (type and exact charge amount per under-hood label) - Qty: 1
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Plan for refrigerant recovery/recharge: either you have the equipment, or a shop recovers/recharges for you.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket (recommended).
• Have caps/plugs ready for A/C lines. Cleanliness prevents repeat failures.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm refrigerant type and charge spec

• Check the under-hood A/C label for refrigerant type (examples: R-134a or R-1234yf) and the exact charge weight.
• Write down the refrigerant type and charge amount; you will need this for recharge using a refrigerant scale (specialty).

Step 2: Recover the refrigerant

• Connect the A/C manifold gauge set (specialty) to the high and low service ports.
• Recover refrigerant using a refrigerant recovery machine (specialty) until the system is fully evacuated.
• If you don’t have recovery equipment, stop here and have a shop recover the refrigerant before you open any lines.

Step 3: Raise the front and remove lower covers (as needed)

• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove any lower splash shields using a trim clip remover and metric socket set 8mm–19mm.

Step 4: Remove the drive belt from the A/C compressor

• Relieve belt tension using a serpentine belt tool (specialty).
• Slip the belt off the compressor pulley and route it out of the way.
• If the belt shows cracks/glazing, replace it now. Belts are cheap insurance.

Step 5: Disconnect the compressor electrical connector

• Unplug the compressor connector by releasing the lock tab using a flat-blade screwdriver (gentle pressure).
• Move the harness aside so it can’t get pinched.

Step 6: Remove the A/C lines/manifold from the compressor

• Place shop rags under the connection to catch any residual oil using shop rags.
• Loosen the line/manifold fasteners using a line (flare-nut) wrench set metric (specialty) or the correct socket.
• Immediately cap/plug the open lines and the compressor ports.
• Remove and discard old O-rings using an O-ring pick set.

Step 7: Unbolt and remove the compressor

• Support the compressor by hand while removing mounting bolts using a metric socket set 8mm–19mm and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Remove the compressor from the bracket and maneuver it out carefully.

Step 8: Set up the new compressor (oil + O-rings)

• Verify the new compressor matches the old one (mounts and ports).
• Drain and measure oil from the old compressor into a container, then add the same amount of correct PAG A/C oil (correct viscosity for Kona) to the new compressor.
• Lightly lubricate new O-rings with PAG oil and install them on the line/manifold fittings.
• Too much oil reduces cooling.

Step 9: Install the new compressor

• Position the compressor and start all mounting bolts by hand using a metric socket set 8mm–19mm.
• Tighten mounting bolts with a torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range) to the factory spec for your Kona’s compressor mounting bolts.

Step 10: Reconnect A/C lines/manifold

• Remove caps/plugs and connect the lines carefully to avoid damaging O-rings.
• Tighten line/manifold fasteners using a torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range) to the factory spec for your Kona’s A/C line manifold bolts.

Step 11: Reconnect electrical connector and reinstall belt/covers

• Plug in the compressor connector until it clicks.
• Reinstall the serpentine belt using a serpentine belt tool (specialty) and confirm correct routing.
• Reinstall splash shields using a trim clip remover and metric socket set 8mm–19mm.

Step 12: Vacuum and recharge the A/C system

• Connect the A/C manifold gauge set (specialty) and pull vacuum with a vacuum pump (specialty).
• Hold vacuum and confirm it does not rise (leak check).
• Recharge by weight using the correct refrigerant (type and exact charge amount per under-hood label) and a refrigerant scale (specialty).

---

✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and turn A/C to MAX; confirm cold air and stable idle.
• Check for leaks at the compressor manifold connection using the A/C manifold gauge set (specialty) readings and visual inspection.
• Listen for abnormal belt squeal; recheck belt routing if needed.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,700 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

---