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2016 Subaru Forester
2016 Subaru Forester
2.0XT Touring - Flat 4 2.0L
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Subaru Forester - A/C Compressor Replacement

Subaru Forester - A/C Compressor Replacement

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How to Replace the A/C Compressor on a 2016 Subaru Forester (R-134a System)

Step-by-step removal and install with required tools, parts, O-rings, oil balance, torque specs, vacuum, and recharge tips

How to Replace the A/C Compressor on a 2016 Subaru Forester (R-134a System)

Step-by-step removal and install with required tools, parts, O-rings, oil balance, torque specs, vacuum, and recharge tips

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Forester - A/C Compressor Replacement

Replacing the A/C compressor means safely recovering the refrigerant, removing the drive belt and A/C lines, swapping the compressor, then pulling a deep vacuum and recharging the system to the correct amount. This is critical because opening the A/C system lets moisture in, which can quickly damage the new compressor if the system isn’t evacuated properly.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: common Subaru FA20 A/C specs used; verify if available.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Refrigerant must be recovered—do not vent to air (illegal and dangerous).
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves; liquid refrigerant can cause frostbite.
  • ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; keep hands clear of the belt path.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging compressor wiring.
  • ⚠️ Cap open A/C lines immediately to keep moisture/dirt out.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 3/8" torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range)
  • 6" extension (3/8")
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Line caps/plugs assortment
  • Manifold gauge set for R-134a (specialty)
  • Vacuum pump (specialty)
  • Refrigerant scale (specialty)
  • Refrigerant recovery machine (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • A/C compressor - Qty: 1
  • A/C compressor O-ring set - Qty: 1
  • PAG A/C oil (Subaru/Denso SP-10 equivalent) - Qty: 1
  • R-134a refrigerant - Qty: 1 (enough for full charge)

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Plan A/C service: have a shop recover the refrigerant first, or use a refrigerant recovery machine (it pulls refrigerant out safely into a tank).
  • Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it.
  • Raise the front and support it: use a floor jack and jack stands under the proper front support points.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Recover the refrigerant

  • Use a refrigerant recovery machine (specialty) to fully recover the system.
  • If you don’t have recovery equipment, have a shop recover it before you start disassembly.
  • Never loosen A/C lines under pressure.

Step 2: Remove the lower engine cover (undertray)

  • Use a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket to remove the clips/bolts holding the undertray.
  • Set hardware aside in a small container so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Remove the accessory drive belt

  • Locate the belt tensioner.
  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet on the tensioner to relieve belt tension, then slip the belt off the compressor pulley.
  • Take a quick photo of belt routing.

Step 4: Unplug the compressor electrical connector

  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver gently to release the connector lock if needed.
  • Pull the connector straight off—don’t tug on the wires.

Step 5: Remove the A/C lines from the compressor

  • Clean around the fittings first to keep dirt out.
  • Use a 10mm socket (typical) to remove the line retaining bolt(s) at the compressor manifold block.
  • Carefully wiggle the lines free; expect a small hiss only if recovery was incomplete.
  • Immediately install line caps/plugs assortment on both the lines and the compressor ports.
  • Torque to 9.8 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs) for the line retaining bolt(s).

Step 6: Remove the compressor mounting bolts and compressor

  • Support the compressor with one hand before removing the last bolt.
  • Use a 12mm socket and 3/8" ratchet with a 6" extension to remove the compressor mounting bolts.
  • Lower the compressor out from underneath.
  • Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for compressor mounting bolts.

Step 7: Prepare the new compressor (oil balancing)

  • Drain and measure oil from the old compressor into a clean container (tilt and rotate the hub by hand).
  • Add the same amount of new PAG A/C oil (Subaru/Denso SP-10 equivalent) into the new compressor.
  • Rotate the compressor hub by hand 10–15 turns to distribute oil.
  • Too much oil reduces cooling performance.

Step 8: Replace O-rings and install the new compressor

  • Remove old O-rings from the A/C line ends.
  • Lightly coat new O-rings with clean PAG A/C oil and install them.
  • Position the compressor and start all mounting bolts by hand (prevents cross-threading).
  • Use a 12mm socket to snug, then use a 3/8" torque wrench.
  • Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for compressor mounting bolts.

Step 9: Reinstall the A/C lines

  • Remove the caps/plugs right before assembly.
  • Seat the line block squarely (do not force it).
  • Use a 10mm socket to install the retaining bolt(s).
  • Torque to 9.8 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs) for the line retaining bolt(s).

Step 10: Reconnect wiring and reinstall the drive belt

  • Plug the compressor connector back in until it clicks.
  • Route the belt correctly, then use a 14mm socket to relieve tension and slip the belt back on.
  • Visually confirm the belt is fully seated in every pulley groove.

Step 11: Reinstall the undertray and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall the undertray using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
  • Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack.

Step 12: Evacuate (vacuum) and recharge the A/C system

  • Connect the manifold gauge set for R-134a (specialty) and a vacuum pump (specialty).
  • Pull vacuum for 30–45 minutes, then close valves and verify it holds vacuum for 10–15 minutes (leak check).
  • Recharge by weight using a refrigerant scale (specialty).
  • Charge amount (common): 0.48 kg (1.06 lb / 16.9 oz) R-134a

✅ After Repair

  • Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Start the engine and set HVAC to MAX A/C, recirculation ON, blower medium-high.
  • Confirm the compressor engages, air gets cold, and there are no unusual noises.
  • Check for leaks at the compressor line block (oily residue is a clue).
  • If cooling is weak, charge weight may be off.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$950 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.


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