How to Replace the A/C Compressor on a 2016 Subaru Forester (R-134a System)
Step-by-step removal and install with required tools, parts, O-rings, oil balance, torque specs, vacuum, and recharge tips
How to Replace the A/C Compressor on a 2016 Subaru Forester (R-134a System)
Step-by-step removal and install with required tools, parts, O-rings, oil balance, torque specs, vacuum, and recharge tips


🔧 Forester - A/C Compressor Replacement
Replacing the A/C compressor means safely recovering the refrigerant, removing the drive belt and A/C lines, swapping the compressor, then pulling a deep vacuum and recharging the system to the correct amount. This is critical because opening the A/C system lets moisture in, which can quickly damage the new compressor if the system isn’t evacuated properly.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: common Subaru FA20 A/C specs used; verify if available.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Refrigerant must be recovered—do not vent to air (illegal and dangerous).
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves; liquid refrigerant can cause frostbite.
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; keep hands clear of the belt path.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging compressor wiring.
- ⚠️ Cap open A/C lines immediately to keep moisture/dirt out.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3/8" torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range)
- 6" extension (3/8")
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Line caps/plugs assortment
- Manifold gauge set for R-134a (specialty)
- Vacuum pump (specialty)
- Refrigerant scale (specialty)
- Refrigerant recovery machine (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- A/C compressor - Qty: 1
- A/C compressor O-ring set - Qty: 1
- PAG A/C oil (Subaru/Denso SP-10 equivalent) - Qty: 1
- R-134a refrigerant - Qty: 1 (enough for full charge)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Plan A/C service: have a shop recover the refrigerant first, or use a refrigerant recovery machine (it pulls refrigerant out safely into a tank).
- Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it.
- Raise the front and support it: use a floor jack and jack stands under the proper front support points.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Recover the refrigerant
- Use a refrigerant recovery machine (specialty) to fully recover the system.
- If you don’t have recovery equipment, have a shop recover it before you start disassembly.
- Never loosen A/C lines under pressure.
Step 2: Remove the lower engine cover (undertray)
- Use a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket to remove the clips/bolts holding the undertray.
- Set hardware aside in a small container so nothing gets lost.
Step 3: Remove the accessory drive belt
- Locate the belt tensioner.
- Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet on the tensioner to relieve belt tension, then slip the belt off the compressor pulley.
- Take a quick photo of belt routing.
Step 4: Unplug the compressor electrical connector
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver gently to release the connector lock if needed.
- Pull the connector straight off—don’t tug on the wires.
Step 5: Remove the A/C lines from the compressor
- Clean around the fittings first to keep dirt out.
- Use a 10mm socket (typical) to remove the line retaining bolt(s) at the compressor manifold block.
- Carefully wiggle the lines free; expect a small hiss only if recovery was incomplete.
- Immediately install line caps/plugs assortment on both the lines and the compressor ports.
- Torque to 9.8 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs) for the line retaining bolt(s).
Step 6: Remove the compressor mounting bolts and compressor
- Support the compressor with one hand before removing the last bolt.
- Use a 12mm socket and 3/8" ratchet with a 6" extension to remove the compressor mounting bolts.
- Lower the compressor out from underneath.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for compressor mounting bolts.
Step 7: Prepare the new compressor (oil balancing)
- Drain and measure oil from the old compressor into a clean container (tilt and rotate the hub by hand).
- Add the same amount of new PAG A/C oil (Subaru/Denso SP-10 equivalent) into the new compressor.
- Rotate the compressor hub by hand 10–15 turns to distribute oil.
- Too much oil reduces cooling performance.
Step 8: Replace O-rings and install the new compressor
- Remove old O-rings from the A/C line ends.
- Lightly coat new O-rings with clean PAG A/C oil and install them.
- Position the compressor and start all mounting bolts by hand (prevents cross-threading).
- Use a 12mm socket to snug, then use a 3/8" torque wrench.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for compressor mounting bolts.
Step 9: Reinstall the A/C lines
- Remove the caps/plugs right before assembly.
- Seat the line block squarely (do not force it).
- Use a 10mm socket to install the retaining bolt(s).
- Torque to 9.8 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs) for the line retaining bolt(s).
Step 10: Reconnect wiring and reinstall the drive belt
- Plug the compressor connector back in until it clicks.
- Route the belt correctly, then use a 14mm socket to relieve tension and slip the belt back on.
- Visually confirm the belt is fully seated in every pulley groove.
Step 11: Reinstall the undertray and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall the undertray using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
- Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack.
Step 12: Evacuate (vacuum) and recharge the A/C system
- Connect the manifold gauge set for R-134a (specialty) and a vacuum pump (specialty).
- Pull vacuum for 30–45 minutes, then close valves and verify it holds vacuum for 10–15 minutes (leak check).
- Recharge by weight using a refrigerant scale (specialty).
- Charge amount (common): 0.48 kg (1.06 lb / 16.9 oz) R-134a
✅ After Repair
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and set HVAC to MAX A/C, recirculation ON, blower medium-high.
- Confirm the compressor engages, air gets cold, and there are no unusual noises.
- Check for leaks at the compressor line block (oily residue is a clue).
- If cooling is weak, charge weight may be off.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$950 (parts only)
You Save: $550-$850 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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