How to Replace the A/C Compressor on a 2016 Hyundai Veloster (R-134a System)
Step-by-step removal and install with required tools/parts, O-ring & PAG oil tips, and evac/recharge safety checks
How to Replace the A/C Compressor on a 2016 Hyundai Veloster (R-134a System)
Step-by-step removal and install with required tools/parts, O-ring & PAG oil tips, and evac/recharge safety checks


🔧 Veloster - A/C Compressor Replacement
Replacing the A/C compressor fixes issues like grinding noise, seized pulley, no cold air, or metal contamination in the system. This job is part mechanical (remove/replace) and part A/C service (evacuate and recharge) to protect the system and compressor.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (plus A/C evac/recharge time)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Do not vent refrigerant to the air; have the system professionally recovered first.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves; liquid refrigerant can cause frostbite.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers/tools clear of the belt path.
- ⚠️ Support the A/C lines; do not bend or twist them.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging compressor wiring.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench
- Extensions set (3" and 6")
- Metric combination wrench set (10mm-17mm)
- Flat trim clip tool
- Phillips screwdriver
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Drain pan
- Shop rags
- A/C manifold gauge set for R-134a (specialty)
- Vacuum pump (specialty)
- Refrigerant scale (specialty)
- Refrigerant leak detector (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- A/C compressor - Qty: 1
- A/C compressor O-ring kit (HNBR green O-rings) - Qty: 1
- PAG refrigerant oil (Hyundai-compatible) - Qty: 1
- R-134a refrigerant - Qty: 1 system charge
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, chock the rear wheels, and let the engine cool.
- Have an A/C shop recover the refrigerant before you loosen any A/C lines.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Plan to replace every opened O-ring.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and support the front of the car
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper jacking point.
- Set the car on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake-test stability.
Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (undertray)
- Remove clips and screws using a flat trim clip tool and Phillips screwdriver.
- Set all fasteners aside in a tray so you don’t lose them.
Step 3: Relieve belt tension and remove the drive belt
- Use a serpentine belt tool (specialty) to rotate the belt tensioner and create slack.
- Slip the belt off the A/C compressor pulley first, then remove it fully.
- Serpentine belt tool = long handled wrench for tight spaces.
Step 4: Unplug the compressor electrical connector
- Locate the compressor connector and press the lock tab.
- Disconnect it by hand; use a flat trim clip tool only if it’s stuck (don’t break the tab).
Step 5: Remove the A/C refrigerant lines from the compressor
- Place a drain pan under the compressor and lay shop rags below the fittings.
- Remove the line retaining bolt(s) using a metric socket set (8mm-19mm) and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Gently wiggle the manifold/lines free; do not pry hard or bend the aluminum lines.
- Immediately remove and discard the old O-rings; keep ports clean with a rag.
- Torque to OEM spec (refer to factory service information) when reinstalling line retaining bolt(s).
Step 6: Remove the compressor mounting bolts and compressor
- Support the compressor with one hand while removing bolts with a metric socket set (8mm-19mm), extensions set (3" and 6"), and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Remove the compressor from below.
- Torque to OEM spec (refer to factory service information) for compressor mounting bolts during installation.
Step 7: Prepare the new compressor (oil balancing)
- Rotate the compressor hub by hand a few turns to feel for smooth movement.
- Check the new compressor oil quantity per the compressor instructions.
- Drain and measure oil from the old compressor into a drain pan, then match that amount into the new compressor using the supplied oil or PAG refrigerant oil.
- Too much oil can reduce cooling.
Step 8: Install new O-rings and reinstall the refrigerant lines
- Install new O-rings from the A/C compressor O-ring kit on the line ends.
- Lightly coat O-rings with clean PAG refrigerant oil so they don’t tear.
- Reattach the lines and tighten the retaining bolt(s) using a 3/8" drive torque wrench.
- Torque to OEM spec (refer to factory service information).
Step 9: Install the compressor and reconnect wiring
- Position the compressor and hand-start all mounting bolts to prevent cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts evenly using a 3/8" drive torque wrench.
- Torque to OEM spec (refer to factory service information).
- Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 10: Reinstall the belt and undertray
- Route the belt correctly and use the serpentine belt tool (specialty) to release tension.
- Reinstall the undertray with the Phillips screwdriver and flat trim clip tool.
Step 11: Evacuate the system (vacuum) and recharge with R-134a
- Connect the A/C manifold gauge set for R-134a (specialty) to the low and high service ports.
- Connect the vacuum pump (specialty) and pull vacuum (deep vacuum) long enough to boil out moisture.
- Close valves and verify vacuum holds (no loss). If it won’t hold, you have a leak that must be fixed before charging.
- Charge by weight using R-134a refrigerant and a refrigerant scale (specialty).
- Charge to OEM under-hood label specification (exact ounces/grams).
Step 12: Leak-check
- With the engine running and A/C on MAX, check fittings using a refrigerant leak detector (specialty).
- Visually inspect for oil residue around the compressor and line connections using safety glasses.
✅ After Repair
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and turn A/C to MAX; confirm the compressor engages and cold air returns.
- Listen for belt squeal or rubbing; shut down immediately if you hear it.
- Recheck for leaks after a short drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor + evac/recharge)
DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, assuming you already have A/C service tools)
You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















