Assumptions: Your Journey uses the factory R-134a A/C system with a belt-driven compressor and bolt-on line manifold block (common on this model).

🔧 Journey - A/C Compressor Replacement

Replacing the A/C compressor means safely recovering the refrigerant, removing the drive belt and compressor, swapping seals (O-rings), then pulling a deep vacuum and recharging by weight. This is done because a failing compressor can seize, leak, or contaminate the system with metal debris.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Refrigerant is hazardous and regulated—have the system recovered with proper equipment before opening any A/C lines.
• ⚠️ Never vent refrigerant to the air. It can cause frostbite and eye injury.
• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine. Keep hands and tools away from the radiator fan and belt path.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental starts and short circuits.
• ⚠️ Cap/plug A/C lines immediately. Dirt + moisture can ruin the system.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–100 Nm range)
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (40–200 Nm range)
• Socket set (8mm–18mm)
• Wrench set (10mm–18mm)
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• Trim clip remover
• Flat screwdriver
• Pick set
• Line caps/plugs assortment
• Shop rags
• Flashlight
• A/C manifold gauge set for R-134a (specialty)
• Vacuum pump (specialty)
• Refrigerant scale (specialty)
• Scan tool with A/C data (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• A/C compressor - Qty: 1
• A/C compressor clutch (if not included with compressor) - Qty: 1
• A/C manifold line O-ring set - Qty: 1
• R-134a refrigerant - Qty: As required
• PAG A/C compressor oil (PAG 46) - Qty: As required
• Serpentine belt (recommended if worn/cracked) - Qty: 1
• A/C receiver/drier or desiccant pack (recommended if system was open or compressor failed) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Have an A/C shop recover the refrigerant before you start disassembly.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Know your recharge method: you must recharge using a scale by weight, not by “pressure only.”
• Take photos of routing before removing the belt.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Recover the refrigerant (required)

• Have a shop recover the refrigerant with certified equipment before opening any lines.
• If you have approved recovery equipment, connect using an A/C manifold gauge set for R-134a (specialty) and follow the machine prompts.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 3: Raise the front of the vehicle and remove the lower splash shield

• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lower splash shield/undertray fasteners using a trim clip remover and 8mm socket.

Step 4: Remove the serpentine belt

• Place a serpentine belt tool (specialty) on the belt tensioner and rotate to relieve tension.
• Slip the belt off the A/C compressor pulley, then release the tensioner slowly.
• A serpentine belt tool is a long, thin ratchet made for tight spaces.

Step 5: Unplug the compressor electrical connector

• Locate the compressor connector and release the lock tab using a pick set or flat screwdriver.
• Pull the connector straight off—do not yank on the wires.

Step 6: Remove the A/C line manifold from the compressor

• Place rags under the connection using shop rags.
• Remove the line retaining bolt(s) using a 10mm socket (some use 13mm socket depending on the manifold).
• Carefully wiggle the manifold block straight out of the compressor.
• Immediately cap/plug the open lines and compressor ports using line caps/plugs assortment.
• Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs) for the line retaining bolt(s).

Step 7: Remove the compressor mounting bolts and compressor

• Support the compressor with one hand.
• Remove the compressor mounting bolts using a 13mm socket or 15mm socket (varies by bracket).
• Lower the compressor out from underneath.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs) for the compressor mounting bolts.

Step 8: Match the oil amount (critical)

• Drain the old compressor oil into a measuring container (use shop rags for spills).
• Drain the new compressor (many come pre-oiled) and adjust so the new compressor has the same amount as the old one removed.
• Use PAG A/C compressor oil (PAG 46) only.
• Too much oil reduces cooling and can damage parts.

Step 9: Replace O-rings and reinstall the A/C manifold

• Remove old O-rings from the line manifold using a pick set.
• Install new O-rings from the A/C manifold line O-ring set.
• Lightly coat O-rings with clean PAG A/C compressor oil (PAG 46) before assembly.

Step 10: Install the new compressor

• Position the compressor and start all mounting bolts by hand.
• Tighten mounting bolts with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs) for the compressor mounting bolts.

Step 11: Reconnect A/C lines and electrical connector

• Remove the caps/plugs and install the manifold block squarely into the compressor.
• Install the retaining bolt(s) using a 10mm socket, then torque.
• Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs) for the line retaining bolt(s).
• Reconnect the compressor electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 12: Reinstall the serpentine belt and splash shield

• Route the belt correctly and rotate the tensioner using the serpentine belt tool (specialty).
• Release the tensioner slowly and confirm the belt is seated in every pulley groove using a flashlight.
• Reinstall the splash shield using a trim clip remover and 8mm socket.

Step 13: Evacuate (vacuum) the system

• Connect the A/C manifold gauge set for R-134a (specialty) to the high and low service ports.
• Connect the center hose to the vacuum pump (specialty).
• Pull vacuum for at least 30–45 minutes, then close the valves and watch for vacuum loss.
• If vacuum rises, you likely have a leak.

Step 14: Recharge by weight

• Use a refrigerant scale (specialty) to add the exact under-hood label charge amount.
• Charge through the correct side per your gauge set instructions while monitoring pressures.
• If you’re not equipped to charge by weight, have a shop perform evacuation and recharge.

Step 15: Reconnect battery and verify operation

• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and set A/C to MAX and recirculation.
• Verify the compressor engages and vent temperatures drop.

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✅ After Repair

• Check for leaks at the compressor manifold area (oil residue is a common clue).
• Use a scan tool with A/C data (specialty) to confirm A/C pressure sensor readings look normal and no A/C-related codes return.
• Listen for abnormal knocking/squealing from the compressor area.
• If the old compressor failed internally, consider replacing the receiver/drier and flushing—contamination can destroy the new compressor.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $850-$1,300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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