How to Replace the A/C Compressor on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima (Trim: SL | Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step guide with tools, parts, torque specs, refrigerant recovery, and recharge tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace the A/C Compressor on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima (Trim: SL | Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step guide with tools, parts, torque specs, refrigerant recovery, and recharge tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Altima - A/C Compressor Replacement
Replacing the A/C compressor on your Altima means recovering the refrigerant, removing the drive belt, disconnecting the A/C lines and electrical connector, then installing a new compressor with fresh O-rings and the correct amount of refrigerant oil.
This repair involves pressurized refrigerant, so the refrigerant must be recovered with proper A/C service equipment before any lines are opened.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Do not vent refrigerant into the air. The A/C system must be professionally recovered before opening any A/C line.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Refrigerant can cause instant frostbite if it contacts skin or eyes.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging the compressor electrical connector.
- ⚠️ Support your Altima with jack stands before working underneath. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ The A/C system must be vacuum-tested and recharged by weight after repair. Guessing the charge can damage the compressor.
- ⚠️ Replace the receiver/drier or condenser assembly if the compressor failed internally or sent metal debris through the system.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive extension set
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Torque wrench rated 5-80 ft-lbs
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- A/C manifold gauge set for R-134a (specialty)
- A/C refrigerant recovery machine (specialty)
- A/C vacuum pump (specialty)
- Refrigerant scale (specialty)
- UV leak detection light (specialty)
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- A/C compressor - Qty: 1
- A/C compressor O-ring seal kit - Qty: 1
- PAG A/C compressor oil for R-134a systems - Qty: As required
- R-134a refrigerant - Qty: Recharge by under-hood label specification
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
- A/C condenser with receiver/drier - Qty: 1 if compressor failed internally
- A/C line flush solvent - Qty: 1 if debris is present
📋 Before You Begin
- 🚗 Park your Altima on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- ❄️ Have the refrigerant recovered first using an A/C refrigerant recovery machine. Recovery means safely removing and storing refrigerant from the system.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging the compressor.
- 🧴 Identify whether the old compressor failed mechanically. If the oil has metal flakes, the condenser/receiver-drier should be replaced and the lines should be flushed.
- 📌 The refrigerant amount must be charged by weight using the under-hood A/C label, not by pressure alone.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Recover the Refrigerant
- Connect the A/C manifold gauge set for R-134a to the high-side and low-side service ports.
- Use the A/C refrigerant recovery machine to fully recover the refrigerant from the system.
- Confirm both gauges read 0 psi before opening any A/C line.
- Never loosen A/C lines under pressure.
Step 2: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back onto the battery post.
Step 3: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Altima at the front center jacking point.
- Set the vehicle securely on jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
- Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working underneath.
Step 4: Remove the Lower Splash Shield
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic push clips from the lower engine splash shield.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any splash shield bolts.
- Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
- A trim clip tool is a small pry tool that removes plastic clips without breaking them.
Step 5: Remove the Serpentine Drive Belt
- Locate the automatic belt tensioner at the front of the engine.
- Use a serpentine belt tool on the tensioner to rotate it and release belt tension.
- Slide the belt off the A/C compressor pulley first, then slowly release the tensioner.
- Remove the belt from the engine if you are replacing it.
- Take a belt-routing photo first.
Step 6: Disconnect the Compressor Electrical Connector
- From underneath, locate the A/C compressor on the lower front side of the engine.
- Use your fingers or a flathead screwdriver to release the connector lock tab.
- Pull the electrical connector straight off the compressor.
Step 7: Remove the A/C Line Bolts
- Use a 12mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive extension set to remove the suction and discharge line retaining bolts from the compressor.
- Carefully pull the A/C lines away from the compressor.
- Remove and discard the old O-rings from the line fittings.
- Cover the open A/C lines with clean caps or tape to keep dirt and moisture out.
- Keep every opening clean and dry.
Step 8: Remove the A/C Compressor
- Support the compressor with one hand.
- Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the compressor mounting bolts.
- Lower the compressor carefully out from the bottom of the engine bay.
- Note the position of any brackets or spacers before removal.
Step 9: Prepare the New Compressor
- Drain the shipping oil from the new compressor into a clean measuring container.
- Drain the oil from the old compressor into a separate clean measuring container.
- Add the same amount of fresh PAG A/C compressor oil for R-134a systems to the new compressor unless the compressor supplier gives a different instruction.
- Rotate the compressor clutch plate by hand several turns to distribute the oil.
- If the old compressor failed internally, replace the A/C condenser with receiver/drier and flush reusable lines with A/C line flush solvent.
Step 10: Install the New Compressor
- Position the new compressor onto the engine bracket by hand.
- Start all mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench rated 5-80 ft-lbs to tighten the compressor mounting bolts evenly.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Reconnect the A/C Lines
- Install new O-rings from the A/C compressor O-ring seal kit onto the suction and discharge line fittings.
- Lightly coat the new O-rings with clean PAG A/C compressor oil for R-134a systems.
- Push the line fittings squarely into the compressor ports.
- Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench rated 5-80 ft-lbs to tighten the A/C line retaining bolts.
- Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
Step 12: Reconnect the Electrical Connector
- Push the compressor electrical connector on until it clicks.
- Gently tug the connector by hand to confirm it is locked.
Step 13: Reinstall the Serpentine Belt
- Route the serpentine drive belt around the pulleys using your belt-routing photo.
- Use the serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner.
- Slide the belt over the A/C compressor pulley last.
- Release the tensioner slowly and inspect that the belt sits centered in every pulley groove.
Step 14: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield
- Raise the splash shield into position.
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the bolts.
- Use a trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall the plastic push clips.
Step 15: Reconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Tighten the clamp snugly. Do not over-tighten it.
Step 16: Evacuate the A/C System
- Connect the A/C manifold gauge set for R-134a to the service ports.
- Connect the A/C vacuum pump to the manifold gauge set.
- Run the vacuum pump for at least 30-45 minutes to remove air and moisture.
- Close the manifold valves and verify the system holds vacuum for at least 10 minutes.
- If vacuum drops, use a UV leak detection light after adding dye-compatible refrigerant to locate leaks.
Step 17: Recharge the A/C System
- Place the refrigerant container on a refrigerant scale.
- Charge the system with R-134a refrigerant by the exact weight shown on the under-hood A/C label.
- Start the engine and set A/C to MAX cooling with the blower on high.
- Watch the A/C manifold gauge set for R-134a and confirm pressures stabilize normally for the current outside temperature.
- Correct weight matters more than pressure.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Confirm the A/C blows cold from the center vents after several minutes of running.
- ✅ Listen for abnormal compressor noise, belt squeal, or rapid clutch cycling.
- ✅ Inspect both compressor line fittings for oil residue, which can indicate a leak.
- ✅ Recheck that the serpentine belt is centered on all pulleys.
- ✅ If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock and one-touch window function if needed.
- ✅ If cooling is weak, do not add refrigerant blindly. Recheck charge weight and leak-test the system.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $950-$1,700 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$800 (parts only)
You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours, plus evacuation and recharge time.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















