🔧 Kona - 12V Battery Replacement

You’ll remove the old 12V battery from the engine bay and install a new one. This fixes slow cranking, warning lights from low voltage, and “dead battery” no-start issues.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Keep the key fob at least 10 feet away so the Kona stays fully off.
• ⚠️ Turn ignition OFF and remove any chargers from the 12V outlet.
• ⚠️ Batteries can vent hydrogen gas; do this in a well-ventilated area.
• ⚠️ Never let a tool touch both battery terminals at the same time.
• ⚠️ Always disconnect the negative (-) terminal first, reconnect it last.
• ⚠️ If your Kona has Auto Start-Stop (ISG), it typically uses an AGM battery—use the same type as installed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 6" socket extension
• Torque wrench (5-30 Nm range)
• Battery terminal puller (specialty)
• Battery terminal cleaning brush
• Trim clip tool
• Memory saver (12V OBD-II) (specialty)
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 12V battery (correct fit for Kona) - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion washers - Qty: 2
• Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine bay cool if it’s hot.
• If you want to keep radio presets and settings, connect a Memory saver (12V OBD-II) now (it feeds low power while the battery is out).
• Make sure lights, HVAC, and accessories are OFF.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the battery

• Open the hood.
• If a plastic cover blocks access, remove it using a trim clip tool.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) terminal first

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen the negative (-) terminal clamp nut.
• Lift the clamp straight up and off the battery post.
• If it’s stuck, use a battery terminal puller (specialty). Don’t pry on the battery case.

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) terminal

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen the positive (+) terminal clamp nut.
• Remove the clamp from the post, then move it aside so it cannot spring back.

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down

• At the battery base, remove the hold-down bracket/bolts using a 12mm socket, 6" extension, and 3/8" ratchet.
• Set the bracket and hardware aside.

Step 5: Remove the old battery

• Wearing nitrile gloves and safety glasses, lift the battery straight up and out.
• Batteries are heavy—use your legs, not your back. Keep it upright.

Step 6: Clean and prep the terminals

• Use a battery terminal cleaning brush to clean the inside of both terminal clamps until shiny.
• Install battery terminal anti-corrosion washers if you’re using them.

Step 7: Install the new battery

• Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one (positive and negative posts match the cables).
• Reinstall the hold-down bracket using a 12mm socket, extension, and torque wrench.
• Torque to 18-22 Nm (13-16 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the positive (+) terminal first

• Install the positive (+) clamp onto the battery post.
• Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the clamp nut.
• Torque to 6-8 Nm (53-71 in-lbs).
• Apply a light coat of battery terminal protectant spray.

Step 9: Reconnect the negative (-) terminal last

• Install the negative (-) clamp onto the battery post.
• Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the clamp nut.
• Torque to 6-8 Nm (53-71 in-lbs).
• Apply a light coat of battery terminal protectant spray.

Step 10: Reinstall any covers

• Reinstall any battery/engine covers you removed using a trim clip tool.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the Kona and confirm normal cranking.
• Check that no battery terminals can rotate by hand.
• Set the clock and restore radio presets if they reset.
• If auto-up window function stops working: fully close the window, then hold the switch UP for 3 seconds to re-initialize.
• If a warning light appears after replacement, recheck terminal tightness and cleanliness first.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$170 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.