🔧 Kicks - 12V Battery Replacement

This job replaces the 12-volt under-hood battery that powers starting and all electronics. The key is removing the cables in the correct order to prevent electrical shorts and avoiding losing small hardware from the hold-down.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Turn the car OFF and keep the key fob at least 10 feet away.
• ⚠️ Always disconnect negative (-) first and reconnect it last.
• ⚠️ Do not let a tool touch the positive (+) terminal and any metal body part at the same time.
• ⚠️ Batteries can vent gas and acid—wear eye protection and gloves.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not “required,” but it is the correct method for battery replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 6" socket extension
• 10mm combination wrench
• Torque wrench (in-lb or low Nm range)
• Battery terminal cleaning brush
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 12V battery (Group size 51R, top-post) - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion pads - Qty: 2
• Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Kicks on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and locate the battery on the driver-side front of the engine bay.
• If you want to preserve radio presets and clock, use a 12V memory saver (a device that keeps power during battery swap).
• Make sure you can identify the terminals: negative (-) is usually black and marked “–”; positive (+) usually has a red cover and “+”.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the negative (-) terminal

• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the negative terminal clamp nut.
• Twist the clamp gently and lift it off the battery post.
• Tuck the negative cable aside so it cannot spring back to the battery. Keep it from touching metal.

Step 2: Disconnect the positive (+) terminal

• Flip open the red cover (if equipped) on the positive terminal.
• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the positive terminal clamp nut and lift the clamp off.
• Cover the end with a rag or keep it positioned away from any metal parts.

Step 3: Remove the battery hold-down

• Use a 10mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and 6" extension to remove the hold-down hardware.
• If your Kicks uses J-hooks (hook-shaped rods that grab the tray), lift them out and set all hardware aside together.
• Lift off the hold-down bracket/frame.

Step 4: Remove the old battery

• Wear nitrile gloves.
• Lift the battery straight up and out (it’s heavier than it looks). Keep it upright.
• Inspect the battery tray for corrosion or wetness.

Step 5: Clean the terminals and install anti-corrosion pads

• Use a battery terminal cleaning brush to clean the inside of both cable clamps until metal looks bright.
• Place battery terminal anti-corrosion pads onto the new battery posts (one per post).
• Lightly apply battery terminal protectant spray after final tightening (best results).

Step 6: Install the new battery and secure it

• Set the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one (positive and negative posts must match cable reach).
• Reinstall the hold-down bracket and hardware using a 10mm socket.
• Tighten the hold-down evenly so the battery cannot move by hand.
• Torque note: Nissan uses low torque values on battery hardware. If you have a torque wrench, tell me whether your hold-down is a crossbar with two J-hooks or a different style, and I’ll give the exact clamp and hold-down torque for your Kicks.

Step 7: Reconnect the positive (+) terminal first

• Push the positive clamp fully down onto the positive post.
• Use a 10mm socket to tighten the clamp nut.
• Close the red cover (if equipped).

Step 8: Reconnect the negative (-) terminal last

• Push the negative clamp fully down onto the negative post.
• Use a 10mm socket to tighten the clamp nut.
• Spray battery terminal protectant on both connections.

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✅ After Repair

• Start your Kicks and confirm it cranks normally and the dash lights behave normally.
• Set clock and radio presets if they reset.
• If the power windows lost auto-up/auto-down: raise the window fully and keep holding the switch up for ~5 seconds, then lower fully and hold ~5 seconds.
• If you have a multimeter: with engine running, charging voltage should typically be around 13.5–14.7V.
• Recheck that the battery is secure (no movement) and terminals are tight.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $130-$250 (parts only)

You Save: $70-$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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