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2017 GMC Sierra 1500
2017 GMC Sierra 1500
SLT - V8 5.3L
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How to Replace Battery 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500

How to Replace Battery 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500

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8mm
8mm
Socket
or (5/16")
13mm
13mm
Socket
or (1/2")
3/8
3/8
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6"
6"
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3/8
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How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 (Group 48/H6 AGM)

Step-by-step under-hood battery swap with tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips for eAssist models

How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 (Group 48/H6 AGM)

Step-by-step under-hood battery swap with tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips for eAssist models

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đź”§ Sierra 1500 - Battery Replacement

On your Sierra 1500, there’s a normal 12V battery under the hood, and because your truck is Mild Hybrid (eAssist/MHEV), it may also have a high-voltage battery pack. The steps below cover the under-hood 12V battery (the one that starts and powers the truck’s 12V system).

Quick question (so I don’t steer you wrong): Are you replacing the 12V battery under the hood, or the hybrid/eAssist battery pack (high voltage)?

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ If you mean the hybrid/eAssist battery pack: don’t DIY—high voltage can cause severe injury; that job should be done by a trained technician.
  • ⚠️ For the 12V battery: turn the truck fully OFF, keep keys away from the truck, and wait 2-3 minutes before disconnecting cables.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect negative (-) first and reconnect it last to reduce the chance of a short.
  • ⚠️ Batteries are heavy and contain acid; wear gloves and safety glasses.
  • ⚠️ Do not allow your tool to touch the battery terminal and any metal body part at the same time.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 8mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 6" socket extension
  • Torque wrench (10-30 ft-lbs range)
  • Battery terminal brush
  • Trim tool
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Fender cover

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • 12V AGM battery (Group 48/H6) - Qty: 1
  • Battery terminal anti-corrosion washers - Qty: 2
  • Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Turn everything off (headlights, HVAC, radio) and remove the key/fob from the truck area.
  • If you want to preserve radio presets: use a “memory saver” (a small device that keeps power while the battery is out). If you don’t have one, it’s okay—your truck will relearn settings.
  • Open the hood and place a fender cover (a protective mat) over the fender edge to avoid scratches.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Locate the 12V battery

  • Open the hood and find the battery on the passenger-side front of the engine bay.
  • If a plastic cover is in the way, pop it off carefully using a trim tool.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) cable first

  • Use an 8mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the negative (-) side-terminal bolt.
  • Pull the negative cable straight out of the battery. Tuck it aside so it can’t spring back and touch the battery.
  • If it’s tight, wiggle—don’t pry hard.

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) cable

  • Use an 8mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the positive (+) side-terminal bolt.
  • Remove the positive cable and keep it from touching metal parts.

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down

  • At the base of the battery, remove the hold-down bolt using a 13mm socket, 6" extension, and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Lift out the hold-down bracket and set it aside.

Step 5: Remove the old battery

  • Grab the battery by the handle and lift it straight up and out.
  • Lift with legs—batteries are heavy.

Step 6: Clean and prep the cables and tray

  • Use a battery terminal brush to clean the inside of both cable ends (where they contact the battery terminals).
  • If you’re installing them, place anti-corrosion washers onto the battery terminals.

Step 7: Install the new battery

  • Set the new 12V AGM battery (Group 48/H6) into the tray in the same orientation as the old one.
  • Reinstall the hold-down bracket and bolt using a 13mm socket, 6" extension, and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect cables (positive first, negative last)

  • Install the positive (+) cable first using an 8mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Torque to 17 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
  • Install the negative (-) cable last using an 8mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Torque to 17 Nm (13 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Protect terminals and reinstall covers

  • Spray both terminals lightly with battery terminal protectant spray.
  • Reinstall any plastic battery/terminal covers by hand; use a trim tool only if needed.

âś… After Repair

  • Start the truck and confirm it cranks normally.
  • Check for warning messages on the dash; some may clear after a short drive.
  • Reset clock/radio presets if needed.
  • If the power windows lose “one-touch/auto” function: hold the window switch all the way down for 5 seconds, then all the way up for 5 seconds.
  • Do a quick charging check: with the engine running, electrical system voltage should typically be around 13.5-14.8V.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $70-$130 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.


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