How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 (Group 48/H6 AGM)
Step-by-step under-hood battery swap with tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips for eAssist models
How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 (Group 48/H6 AGM)
Step-by-step under-hood battery swap with tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips for eAssist models


đź”§ Sierra 1500 - Battery Replacement
On your Sierra 1500, there’s a normal 12V battery under the hood, and because your truck is Mild Hybrid (eAssist/MHEV), it may also have a high-voltage battery pack. The steps below cover the under-hood 12V battery (the one that starts and powers the truck’s 12V system).
Quick question (so I don’t steer you wrong): Are you replacing the 12V battery under the hood, or the hybrid/eAssist battery pack (high voltage)?
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ If you mean the hybrid/eAssist battery pack: don’t DIY—high voltage can cause severe injury; that job should be done by a trained technician.
- ⚠️ For the 12V battery: turn the truck fully OFF, keep keys away from the truck, and wait 2-3 minutes before disconnecting cables.
- ⚠️ Disconnect negative (-) first and reconnect it last to reduce the chance of a short.
- ⚠️ Batteries are heavy and contain acid; wear gloves and safety glasses.
- ⚠️ Do not allow your tool to touch the battery terminal and any metal body part at the same time.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 6" socket extension
- Torque wrench (10-30 ft-lbs range)
- Battery terminal brush
- Trim tool
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fender cover
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 12V AGM battery (Group 48/H6) - Qty: 1
- Battery terminal anti-corrosion washers - Qty: 2
- Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Turn everything off (headlights, HVAC, radio) and remove the key/fob from the truck area.
- If you want to preserve radio presets: use a “memory saver” (a small device that keeps power while the battery is out). If you don’t have one, it’s okay—your truck will relearn settings.
- Open the hood and place a fender cover (a protective mat) over the fender edge to avoid scratches.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Locate the 12V battery
- Open the hood and find the battery on the passenger-side front of the engine bay.
- If a plastic cover is in the way, pop it off carefully using a trim tool.
Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) cable first
- Use an 8mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the negative (-) side-terminal bolt.
- Pull the negative cable straight out of the battery. Tuck it aside so it can’t spring back and touch the battery.
- If it’s tight, wiggle—don’t pry hard.
Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) cable
- Use an 8mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the positive (+) side-terminal bolt.
- Remove the positive cable and keep it from touching metal parts.
Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down
- At the base of the battery, remove the hold-down bolt using a 13mm socket, 6" extension, and 3/8" ratchet.
- Lift out the hold-down bracket and set it aside.
Step 5: Remove the old battery
- Grab the battery by the handle and lift it straight up and out.
- Lift with legs—batteries are heavy.
Step 6: Clean and prep the cables and tray
- Use a battery terminal brush to clean the inside of both cable ends (where they contact the battery terminals).
- If you’re installing them, place anti-corrosion washers onto the battery terminals.
Step 7: Install the new battery
- Set the new 12V AGM battery (Group 48/H6) into the tray in the same orientation as the old one.
- Reinstall the hold-down bracket and bolt using a 13mm socket, 6" extension, and 3/8" ratchet.
- Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect cables (positive first, negative last)
- Install the positive (+) cable first using an 8mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Torque to 17 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
- Install the negative (-) cable last using an 8mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Torque to 17 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Protect terminals and reinstall covers
- Spray both terminals lightly with battery terminal protectant spray.
- Reinstall any plastic battery/terminal covers by hand; use a trim tool only if needed.
âś… After Repair
- Start the truck and confirm it cranks normally.
- Check for warning messages on the dash; some may clear after a short drive.
- Reset clock/radio presets if needed.
- If the power windows lose “one-touch/auto” function: hold the window switch all the way down for 5 seconds, then all the way up for 5 seconds.
- Do a quick charging check: with the engine running, electrical system voltage should typically be around 13.5-14.8V.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $70-$130 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















