How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2016 Subaru Impreza (Group Size 35)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and common torque specs for 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997
How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2016 Subaru Impreza (Group Size 35)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and common torque specs for 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997
đź”§ Impreza - Battery Replacement
You’ll remove the old 12V battery and install a new one with clean, tight connections. A weak or failing battery can cause slow cranking, warning lights, or random electrical glitches.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
Assumption: Torque specs below are best-effort common Subaru values.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Keep keys out of the car and ignition OFF while working.
- ⚠️ Wear eye protection and gloves; battery acid is corrosive.
- ⚠️ Never short the battery terminals with a tool.
- ⚠️ Disconnect negative (-) first and reconnect negative (-) last.
- ⚠️ If the battery was recently charged/driven, let it sit a few minutes before disconnecting.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3" extension for ratchet
- 12mm socket
- Battery terminal puller (specialty)
- Battery post/terminal cleaning brush
- Torque wrench (5-30 Nm range)
- Battery carrying strap
- Shop rags
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 12V battery (Group Size 35) - Qty: 1
- Battery terminal anti-corrosion felt washers - Qty: 2
- Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and locate the battery (front of engine bay).
- If you have radio presets you care about, write them down (some settings may reset).
- Identify the terminals: negative (-) is usually black; positive (+) usually has a red cover.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Power down and access the battery
- Turn everything OFF and remove the key/fob from the cabin.
- Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves before touching the terminals.
Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal
- Use a 10mm socket with a ratchet to loosen the negative terminal clamp nut.
- Twist the clamp gently and lift it off the battery post.
- If it’s stuck, use a battery terminal puller (specialty) (this tool pushes the clamp off without prying).
- Tuck the negative cable aside so it cannot spring back and touch the terminal.
- Torque on install: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) battery terminal
- Flip open the positive terminal cover (if equipped).
- Use a 10mm socket with a ratchet to loosen the positive terminal clamp nut.
- Lift the clamp off the battery post and position it so it can’t touch metal.
- Torque on install: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down bracket
- Use a 10mm socket (and 3" extension if needed) to remove the hold-down nuts from the J-bolts.
- Some versions use 12mm socket hardware—use whichever fits snugly.
- Lift off the hold-down bracket and set it aside.
- Torque on install: Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)
Step 5: Remove the old battery
- Use a battery carrying strap and lift the battery straight up and out.
- Keep it upright to avoid any leakage.
Step 6: Clean the terminals and tray
- Use a battery post/terminal cleaning brush to clean the inside of both cable clamps until shiny.
- Wipe the battery tray area with shop rags.
- Clean metal makes strong starting power.
Step 7: Install the new battery
- Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one (terminals match the cables).
- Install battery terminal anti-corrosion felt washers on the posts.
- Reinstall the hold-down bracket and tighten using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
- Finish tightening with a torque wrench: Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)
Step 8: Reconnect terminals (positive first, negative last)
- Install the positive (+) terminal first. Use a 10mm socket to tighten, then torque wrench: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
- Apply a thin film of dielectric grease around the outside of the connection (not between clamp and post).
- Install the negative (-) terminal last. Tighten with a 10mm socket, then torque wrench: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
- Spray both terminals with battery terminal protectant spray.
Step 9: Quick check for secure fit
- Try to rotate each terminal by hand—there should be no movement.
- Confirm the hold-down bracket is tight and the battery can’t slide.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and confirm normal cranking and idle.
- Reset the clock and radio presets if needed.
- If power windows lost “auto” function: hold the window switch fully down for 2 seconds, then fully up for 2 seconds.
- Check for warning lights; if any stay on, shut off and recheck terminal tightness.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $150-$280 (parts only)
You Save: $70-$100 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.










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