How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2016 Nissan Murano (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for terminals and hold-down bracket for 2003, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2016 Nissan Murano (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for terminals and hold-down bracket for 2003, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Murano - 12V Battery Replacement
Replacing the 12V battery restores reliable starting power and prevents random electrical issues (slow crank, warning lights, no-start). On your Murano, the battery sits in the engine bay and is held down with a simple bracket.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Turn ignition fully OFF, key away from the vehicle, and wait 2 minutes before touching battery cables.
- ⚠️ Remove the negative (-) cable first and install it last to reduce short-circuit risk.
- ⚠️ Do not let a wrench touch the battery positive terminal and metal body at the same time.
- ⚠️ Batteries can vent explosive gas—no smoking/sparks; wear eye protection and gloves.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 10mm combination wrench
- Ratchet (3/8")
- 3" extension (3/8")
- Torque wrench (in-lb or Nm)
- Battery terminal brush (specialty)
- Protective gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 12V battery (Group 35, 550+ CCA) - Qty: 1
- Battery terminal anti-corrosion washers - Qty: 2
- Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- 🔑 Turn everything off (lights, HVAC, radio) and open the hood.
- 🪟 If you want to avoid window reset hassles, lower the driver window before disconnecting.
- 🧠 A “terminal brush” cleans corrosion from clamps/posts.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Locate the battery and identify terminals
- Open the hood and find the battery at the front of the engine bay.
- Identify negative (-) (usually black cable) and positive (+) (usually red cover).
Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable
- Use a 10mm socket with ratchet (3/8") to loosen the negative terminal nut.
- Twist and lift the clamp straight up off the battery post.
- Tuck the negative cable aside so it cannot spring back to the post.
- Negative off first prevents accidental shorts.
Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) battery cable
- Flip up or remove the red protective cover on the positive terminal (if equipped).
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the positive terminal nut and lift the clamp off.
- Move the positive cable aside carefully so it can’t touch metal.
Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down bracket
- Use a 10mm socket, ratchet (3/8"), and 3" extension (3/8") to remove the hold-down nuts/bolts.
- Lift off the hold-down bracket/J-hooks and set them aside.
Step 5: Remove the old battery
- Wear protective gloves and safety glasses.
- Lift the battery straight up and out. It’s heavy—use your legs, not your back.
Step 6: Clean the terminals and tray
- Use a battery terminal brush (specialty) to clean the inside of both cable clamps until shiny.
- If there’s corrosion on the tray, wipe it off (dry rag). Make sure the area is dry before installing the new battery.
Step 7: Install the new battery
- Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one (terminals in the same positions).
- Install the hold-down bracket and snug it using a 10mm socket.
- Use a torque wrench (in-lb or Nm) and 10mm socket: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lb) for the battery hold-down fasteners.
- Battery should not move when pushed by hand.
Step 8: Reconnect the positive (+) cable first
- Install anti-corrosion washers (if included) onto the battery posts.
- Push the positive clamp fully down on the positive post.
- Use a torque wrench (in-lb or Nm) with 10mm socket: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb) for the terminal nut.
- Apply a light film of dielectric grease to exposed metal, then close the red cover.
Step 9: Reconnect the negative (-) cable last
- Push the negative clamp fully down on the negative post.
- Use a torque wrench (in-lb or Nm) with 10mm socket: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb) for the terminal nut.
- Spray battery terminal protectant spray on both terminals after tightening.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and confirm strong cranking and no flickering lights.
- ✅ Check that the battery is secure and cables can’t be rotated by hand.
- ✅ Reset the clock and radio presets if they were lost.
- ✅ If the auto-up window feature stops working: raise the window fully, keep holding the switch up for 3 seconds, then lower fully and hold 3 seconds, then raise fully again.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $140-$280 (parts only)
You Save: $80-$140 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Assumption: standard engine-bay 12V battery (no aftermarket audio/dual-battery setup).


















