🔧 Altima - 12V Battery Replacement

Your Altima’s 12V battery powers starting and all the electronics. Replacing it is straightforward: remove the hold-down, disconnect the cables (negative first), swap the battery, then reconnect (positive first).

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Turn ignition OFF and remove the key fob from the car (keep it 10+ feet away).
• ⚠️ Wear eye protection and gloves; batteries can vent acid and hydrogen gas.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative (-) cable first to reduce short-circuit risk.
• ⚠️ Do not let a tool bridge the battery positive (+) terminal to metal body parts.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" extension for 3/8" ratchet
• 10mm combination wrench
• Torque wrench (inch-pound or Nm)
• Battery terminal brush
• Protective gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 12V battery (Group 35, correct CCA for Altima) - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion pads - Qty: 2
• Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and verify you have any radio/security codes you might need afterward (if applicable).
• Note: Some settings may reset (clock, radio presets). Your power windows may need re-initialization after reconnecting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Locate the battery and remove any covers

• Open the hood and locate the battery at the front of the engine bay.
• If equipped with a battery top cover, lift it off by hand.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable

• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the negative terminal nut.
• Wiggle and lift the negative clamp off the post, then move it aside so it can’t spring back.
• Negative is usually the black cable.
• Torque spec on install: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) battery cable

• Flip up the red protective cap on the positive terminal (if equipped).
• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the positive terminal nut.
• Lift the positive clamp off the post and keep it from touching metal.
• Torque spec on install: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down bracket

• Use a 10mm socket, 6" extension for 3/8" ratchet, and 3/8" ratchet to remove the hold-down nuts/bolts.
• Lift the hold-down bracket off and set it aside.
• Torque spec on install: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the old battery

• Grab the battery by the built-in handle (or the sides) and lift it straight up and out.
• Set it on the ground upright (do not tip it).

Step 6: Clean the terminals and tray

• Use a battery terminal brush to clean the inside of both cable clamps until shiny metal shows.
• Wipe the battery tray area clean and ensure the battery sits flat.
• Clean terminals prevent “no-start” surprises.

Step 7: Install the new battery

• Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one (positive terminal on the same side as before).
• Reinstall the hold-down bracket using the 10mm socket, extension, and ratchet.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs)

Step 8: Reconnect the positive (+) cable first

• Install anti-corrosion pads (one on each post) if you’re using them.
• Push the positive clamp fully down on the positive post.
• Tighten using a 10mm socket, then finish with a torque wrench: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
• Reinstall the red cap over the positive terminal.

Step 9: Reconnect the negative (-) cable last

• Push the negative clamp fully down on the negative post.
• Tighten using a 10mm socket, then finish with a torque wrench: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
• Spray battery terminal protectant spray on both terminals if you’re using it.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the crank is strong and steady.
• Check that the battery is secure (no movement) and that both clamps are tight.
• Reset the clock and radio presets if needed.
• If the auto-up window function doesn’t work: with the engine running, fully lower the window, then fully raise it and hold the switch up for 2 seconds.
• Dispose of the old battery properly—most parts stores recycle it free.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $80-$200 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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