How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2016 Lexus GS350 (Trunk-Mounted)
Step-by-step trunk access, safe disconnect/reconnect order, vent tube routing, and torque specs
How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2016 Lexus GS350 (Trunk-Mounted)
Step-by-step trunk access, safe disconnect/reconnect order, vent tube routing, and torque specs
🔧 GS - 12V Battery Replacement
Your GS uses a 12-volt battery in the trunk. Replacing it is mostly about safe disconnect/reconnect order, keeping the vent tube connected, and securing the battery so it can’t move.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Turn the car OFF and keep the key fob 10+ feet away so the system stays asleep.
- ⚠️ Remove the negative cable first and install it last to reduce short-circuit risk.
- ⚠️ Do not let a tool touch the positive terminal and body metal at the same time.
- ⚠️ Batteries can vent gas—no sparks, flames, or smoking nearby.
- ⚠️ Keep the battery upright; acid leaks can damage the trunk area.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 6" extension for 3/8" ratchet
- 12mm socket
- Trim clip removal tool
- Torque wrench (5-30 Nm range)
- Battery terminal puller (specialty)
- Memory saver (OBD-II) (specialty)
- Battery carrying strap
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 12V car battery (AGM-type if originally equipped) - Qty: 1
- Battery terminal anti-corrosion spray - Qty: 1
- Battery terminal felt washers - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the trunk and leave it open (so you don’t get locked out if power is lost).
- If you want to keep radio presets/settings, connect a memory saver (a small backup power device that plugs into the OBD-II port) before disconnecting the battery.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Access the battery in the trunk
- Open the trunk and lift/remove the right-side trunk floor/side cover to access the battery area.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to pop any plastic retainers without breaking them.
Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) terminal
- Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the negative terminal clamp nut.
- Wiggle the clamp off the battery post. If it’s stuck, use a battery terminal puller (specialty). Don’t pry on the battery case.
- Tuck the negative cable end aside so it cannot spring back and touch the terminal.
- When reinstalling later: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) terminal
- Flip open/remove the red protective cover on the positive terminal.
- Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the positive terminal clamp nut and remove the clamp from the post.
- Move the cable aside so it can’t touch metal.
- When reinstalling later: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
Step 4: Disconnect the battery vent tube
- Locate the small hose on the side of the battery and pull it straight off by hand.
- This is the vent tube (it routes battery gases outside the trunk). Do not leave it disconnected during reassembly.
Step 5: Remove the battery hold-down bracket
- Use a 12mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet and 6" extension to remove the hold-down fastener(s).
- Remove the bracket and set it aside.
- When reinstalling later: Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
Step 6: Remove the old battery
- Put on nitrile gloves and safety glasses.
- Use a battery carrying strap and lift the battery straight up and out (it’s heavy).
- Keep it upright and place it on cardboard or a tray.
Step 7: Install the new battery
- Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one.
- Reinstall the hold-down bracket using the 12mm socket, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
- Reconnect the vent tube by pushing it fully onto the battery vent port.
Step 8: Reconnect terminals (positive first, negative last)
- Install felt washers (if used) on the posts, then apply battery terminal anti-corrosion spray.
- Reconnect the positive (+) clamp first using a 10mm socket, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
- Reinstall the red positive cover.
- Reconnect the negative (-) clamp last using a 10mm socket, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
Step 9: Reinstall trunk trim
- Reinstall the trunk side cover/floor panels.
- Use the trim clip removal tool to align and press clips back into place.
✅ After Repair
- Start the car and confirm it cranks normally and no warning lights remain on after a short drive.
- Reset the clock and radio presets if they were lost.
- Re-initialize auto-up/down windows if needed: with the car ON, fully lower the window, then fully raise it and hold the switch up for ~2 seconds.
- Check that the trunk area has no battery smell and the vent tube is connected.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $70-$130 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















