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2016 Lexus GS350
2016 Lexus GS350
F Sport - V6 3.5L
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2017 Lexus GS350 Battery replacement NO memory loss   or   stall after replacement

2017 Lexus GS350 Battery replacement NO memory loss or stall after replacement

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
Trim
Trim
Tool
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How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2016 Lexus GS350 (Trunk-Mounted)

Step-by-step trunk access, safe disconnect/reconnect order, vent tube routing, and torque specs

How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2016 Lexus GS350 (Trunk-Mounted)

Step-by-step trunk access, safe disconnect/reconnect order, vent tube routing, and torque specs

Orion
Orion

🔧 GS - 12V Battery Replacement

Your GS uses a 12-volt battery in the trunk. Replacing it is mostly about safe disconnect/reconnect order, keeping the vent tube connected, and securing the battery so it can’t move.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Turn the car OFF and keep the key fob 10+ feet away so the system stays asleep.
  • ⚠️ Remove the negative cable first and install it last to reduce short-circuit risk.
  • ⚠️ Do not let a tool touch the positive terminal and body metal at the same time.
  • ⚠️ Batteries can vent gas—no sparks, flames, or smoking nearby.
  • ⚠️ Keep the battery upright; acid leaks can damage the trunk area.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 6" extension for 3/8" ratchet
  • 12mm socket
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Torque wrench (5-30 Nm range)
  • Battery terminal puller (specialty)
  • Memory saver (OBD-II) (specialty)
  • Battery carrying strap
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • 12V car battery (AGM-type if originally equipped) - Qty: 1
  • Battery terminal anti-corrosion spray - Qty: 1
  • Battery terminal felt washers - Qty: 2

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Open the trunk and leave it open (so you don’t get locked out if power is lost).
  • If you want to keep radio presets/settings, connect a memory saver (a small backup power device that plugs into the OBD-II port) before disconnecting the battery.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the battery in the trunk

  • Open the trunk and lift/remove the right-side trunk floor/side cover to access the battery area.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool to pop any plastic retainers without breaking them.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) terminal

  • Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the negative terminal clamp nut.
  • Wiggle the clamp off the battery post. If it’s stuck, use a battery terminal puller (specialty). Don’t pry on the battery case.
  • Tuck the negative cable end aside so it cannot spring back and touch the terminal.
  • When reinstalling later: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) terminal

  • Flip open/remove the red protective cover on the positive terminal.
  • Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the positive terminal clamp nut and remove the clamp from the post.
  • Move the cable aside so it can’t touch metal.
  • When reinstalling later: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)

Step 4: Disconnect the battery vent tube

  • Locate the small hose on the side of the battery and pull it straight off by hand.
  • This is the vent tube (it routes battery gases outside the trunk). Do not leave it disconnected during reassembly.

Step 5: Remove the battery hold-down bracket

  • Use a 12mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet and 6" extension to remove the hold-down fastener(s).
  • Remove the bracket and set it aside.
  • When reinstalling later: Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Remove the old battery

  • Put on nitrile gloves and safety glasses.
  • Use a battery carrying strap and lift the battery straight up and out (it’s heavy).
  • Keep it upright and place it on cardboard or a tray.

Step 7: Install the new battery

  • Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one.
  • Reinstall the hold-down bracket using the 12mm socket, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
  • Reconnect the vent tube by pushing it fully onto the battery vent port.

Step 8: Reconnect terminals (positive first, negative last)

  • Install felt washers (if used) on the posts, then apply battery terminal anti-corrosion spray.
  • Reconnect the positive (+) clamp first using a 10mm socket, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
  • Reinstall the red positive cover.
  • Reconnect the negative (-) clamp last using a 10mm socket, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)

Step 9: Reinstall trunk trim

  • Reinstall the trunk side cover/floor panels.
  • Use the trim clip removal tool to align and press clips back into place.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the car and confirm it cranks normally and no warning lights remain on after a short drive.
  • Reset the clock and radio presets if they were lost.
  • Re-initialize auto-up/down windows if needed: with the car ON, fully lower the window, then fully raise it and hold the switch up for ~2 seconds.
  • Check that the trunk area has no battery smell and the vent tube is connected.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $70-$130 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.


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