🔧 QX60 - 12V Battery Replacement

Replacing the 12V battery restores reliable starting and prevents low-voltage electrical glitches. On your QX60, the battery sits in the engine bay and is held down with a simple bracket.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Wear eye protection and gloves—battery acid is corrosive.
• ⚠️ Keep sparks/flames away; batteries can vent explosive gas.
• ⚠️ Use the correct disconnect order: negative (-) off first, negative (-) on last.
• ⚠️ Never let a tool touch the positive (+) terminal and metal body at the same time.
• ⚠️ Battery is heavy—lift with both hands and keep it upright.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 6" extension for 3/8" ratchet
• 10mm combination wrench
• Battery terminal brush
• Shop rags
• Torque wrench (in-lb or Nm capable)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 12V car battery - Match the size shown on your current battery label (commonly BCI Group 35 on the QX60) - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion spray - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal felt washers - Qty: 2

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and turn the ignition fully OFF.
• Open the hood and keep keys away from the vehicle (prevents modules waking up).
• Note that you may lose radio presets and the clock after disconnecting.
• Assumption: battery type matches the one currently installed.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the battery

• Open the hood and locate the battery in the engine bay.
• Use 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove any small covers if equipped.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) terminal

• Use a 10mm wrench (or 10mm socket) to loosen the negative terminal clamp nut.
• Twist and lift the clamp off the negative (-) post, then tuck it aside so it cannot spring back.
• Negative first prevents accidental shorting.
• Torque to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lb) when reinstalling later.

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) terminal

• Use a 10mm wrench (or 10mm socket) to loosen the positive terminal clamp nut.
• Lift the clamp off the positive (+) post.
• If there’s a red protective cap, flip it closed over the positive clamp end.
• Torque to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lb) when reinstalling later.

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down

• Use a 10mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and 6" extension to remove the hold-down bracket nuts/bolts.
• Lift the hold-down bracket off and set it aside.
• Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lb) when reinstalling later.

Step 5: Remove the old battery

• Grab the battery by the built-in handle (if equipped) and lift it straight up and out.
• Set it on the ground upright on cardboard or a rag.
• Use shop rags to wipe the tray area clean.

Step 6: Clean the terminals and prep for the new battery

• Use a battery terminal brush to clean the inside of each cable clamp until shiny.
• Install battery terminal felt washers (one on each post) if you’re using them.
• Lightly apply battery terminal anti-corrosion spray after final tightening (not before).
• Clean metal = better starting power.

Step 7: Install the new battery and secure it

• Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one (posts in the same positions).
• Reinstall the hold-down bracket using 10mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and 6" extension.
• Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lb).

Step 8: Reconnect terminals (positive first)

• Install the positive (+) clamp first and tighten using a 10mm wrench.
• Torque to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lb).
• Install the negative (-) clamp last and tighten using a 10mm wrench.
• Torque to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lb).
• Spray both terminals with battery terminal anti-corrosion spray.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm it cranks strongly with no warning lights staying on.
• Set the clock and re-save radio presets as needed.
• If auto-up/down windows don’t work: with the engine running, fully lower the window, then fully raise it and hold the switch up for 3-5 seconds.
• Check charging voltage if you have a meter: engine running should typically be around 13.5-14.8V.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $90-$130 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.