How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2013 Subaru Forester (Step-by-Step)
Tools, Group 35 battery specs, safety tips, and terminal/hold-down torque specs for a clean install for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2013 Subaru Forester (Step-by-Step)
Tools, Group 35 battery specs, safety tips, and terminal/hold-down torque specs for a clean install for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
🔧 Forester - Battery Replacement
Replacing the 12V battery is a straightforward job: you’ll remove the old battery, clean the connections, and install the new one. Doing it the right way prevents electrical damage and helps avoid starting/charging problems.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Keep the key fob away from the car and ignition OFF while working.
- ⚠️ Do not let a tool touch both the battery terminal and metal body parts.
- ⚠️ Always disconnect the negative (-) terminal first and reconnect it last.
- ⚠️ Batteries can vent gas and acid—wear gloves and safety glasses.
- ⚠️ If your battery has a vent tube (a small hose), reconnect it to the new battery.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" ratchet
- 6" extension
- 10mm combination wrench
- Battery terminal brush
- Small wire brush
- Shop rags
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- OBD-II memory saver (specialty)
- 12V jump pack (optional)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 12V battery (Group 35, 550+ CCA) - Qty: 1
- Battery terminal anti-corrosion pads - Qty: 2
- Battery terminal protector spray - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- Battery hold-down J-bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and keep it securely propped.
- If you want to keep radio presets and clock, connect an OBD-II memory saver (specialty). (A memory saver is a small device that supplies low power while the battery is removed.)
- Make sure you know your radio settings/presets if you’re not using a memory saver.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Locate the battery and identify terminals
- Find the battery in the engine bay.
- Look for + (positive) and - (negative) markings.
- If there’s a vent tube (small hose going into the side of the battery), note where it connects.
Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) terminal
- Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" ratchet to loosen the negative terminal pinch bolt.
- Twist and lift the negative cable end straight up off the battery post.
- Tuck the cable to the side so it can’t spring back onto the post. Negative off first prevents sparks.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs) on reassembly.
Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) terminal
- Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" ratchet to loosen the positive terminal pinch bolt.
- Remove the positive cable end from the battery post.
- Cover the positive cable end with a shop rag so it can’t touch metal.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs) on reassembly.
Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down bracket
- Use a 10mm socket with a 6" extension to remove the two hold-down nuts at the top of the J-bolts.
- Lift off the hold-down bar and set it aside.
- Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs) on reassembly.
Step 5: Remove the old battery
- Wearing nitrile gloves, lift the battery straight up and out.
- Batteries are heavy—keep it close to your body and lift with your legs.
- If equipped, pull the vent tube out of the battery carefully (don’t tear it).
Step 6: Clean the tray and cable ends
- Use shop rags to wipe debris from the battery tray.
- Use a battery terminal brush to clean the inside of the cable ends until shiny.
- Use a small wire brush to clean corrosion from the hold-down hardware if needed.
- Install battery terminal anti-corrosion pads onto the posts (if using them).
Step 7: Install the new battery
- Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one.
- If your battery uses a vent tube, connect it to the correct vent port on the new battery.
- Reinstall the hold-down bar and start both nuts by hand.
- Use a 10mm socket to tighten evenly side-to-side.
- Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the positive (+) terminal first
- Place the positive cable end fully down on the positive post.
- Use a 10mm socket to tighten the pinch bolt.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
- Apply a thin film of dielectric grease to the outside of the connection, then apply battery terminal protector spray.
Step 9: Reconnect the negative (-) terminal last
- Place the negative cable end fully down on the negative post.
- Use a 10mm socket to tighten the pinch bolt.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
- Apply battery terminal protector spray.
✅ After Repair
- Start your Forester and confirm it cranks normally and no warning lights stay on.
- Let it idle for 5-10 minutes with all accessories OFF so the ECU can relearn idle. Normal idle may vary at first.
- Reset the clock and reprogram radio presets if needed.
- If one-touch windows don’t work, reinitialize by holding the window switch fully down, then fully up for a few seconds.
- Check that the battery is secure and the cables don’t rotate on the posts.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $140-$280 (parts only)
You Save: $80-$170 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















