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2013 Mazda CX-5
2013 - 2016 Mazda CX-5
Inline 4 2.0L
Compatible with more variants.
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2013 Mazda CX-5 Touring Battery change

2013 Mazda CX-5 Touring Battery change

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10mm
10mm
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or (3/8")
10mm
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How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2013 Mazda CX-5 (Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts, safety tips, terminal disconnect order, and torque specs to fix weak crank/no-start for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2013 Mazda CX-5 (Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts, safety tips, terminal disconnect order, and torque specs to fix weak crank/no-start for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

Orion
Orion

đź”§ CX-5 - 12V Battery Replacement

You’ll remove the old 12V battery in the engine bay and install a new one, then reconnect the terminals in the correct order. This fixes no-start issues and prevents weak-crank problems caused by an aging battery.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🔋 Turn the ignition OFF, remove the key, and keep it away from the vehicle.
  • 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses—battery acid is corrosive.
  • ⚡ Disconnect the negative (-) terminal first and reconnect it last to reduce short-circuit risk.
  • 🔥 Do not let a metal tool touch the battery positive and body metal at the same time.
  • đź’¨ Do the job in a ventilated area—batteries can release flammable gas.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm wrench
  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" ratchet
  • 6" extension (1/4")
  • Torque wrench (in-lb range)
  • Battery terminal puller (specialty)
  • Battery post/terminal cleaning brush
  • Baking soda
  • Clean water in spray bottle
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • 12V battery (correct fitment for your CX-5) - Qty: 1
  • Battery terminal anti-corrosion pads - Qty: 2
  • Battery terminal protective spray - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • 🔑 Make sure all lights/accessories are OFF and the key is removed.
  • đź“» Expect to reset the clock and radio presets after replacement.
  • đź§˝ If you see white/blue crust on terminals, plan to clean it (it’s corrosion).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the battery

  • Open the hood and locate the battery at the front of the engine bay.
  • Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves before touching the terminals.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) terminal

  • Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the negative terminal clamp nut (the cable is usually black and/or marked “-”).
  • Wiggle the clamp straight upward to remove it from the battery post.
  • If it’s stuck, use a battery terminal puller (specialty) (this tool safely lifts a stuck clamp without prying).
  • Tuck the negative cable aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) terminal

  • Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the positive terminal clamp nut (usually under a red cover and/or marked “+”).
  • Remove the clamp from the battery post and keep it from touching any metal parts.

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down

  • Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and 6" extension (1/4") to remove the battery hold-down hardware.
  • Lift off the hold-down bracket and set it aside.

Step 5: Remove the old battery

  • Lift the battery straight up and out (it’s heavy—lift with your legs, not your back).
  • Set the old battery upright on the ground.

Step 6: Clean the tray and terminals (if needed)

  • Mix baking soda and water (a couple spoonfuls in a cup is fine).
  • Spray the battery tray area with clean water in spray bottle and wipe using shop towels.
  • Use a battery post/terminal cleaning brush to clean the inside of the cable clamps if they’re crusty.
  • Wipe everything dry with shop towels.

Step 7: Install the new battery

  • Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one (positive and negative on the same sides).
  • Install the hold-down bracket.
  • Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench (in-lb range) to tighten the hold-down hardware: Torque to 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the positive (+) terminal first

  • Install the positive clamp fully down on the battery post.
  • Use a 10mm wrench and tighten the clamp nut: Torque to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs).
  • Install battery terminal anti-corrosion pads and apply battery terminal protective spray if you’re using them.

Step 9: Reconnect the negative (-) terminal last

  • Install the negative clamp fully down on the battery post.
  • Use a 10mm wrench and tighten the clamp nut: Torque to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs).

Step 10: Final checks

  • Gently try to twist each terminal by hand—there should be no movement.
  • Make sure the battery is secure and does not slide in the tray.

âś… After Repair

  • đźš— Start the engine and confirm the crank is strong and steady.
  • ⚠️ If any warning lights appear, shut off and re-check terminal tightness and cleanliness.
  • đź•’ Reset the clock and radio presets.
  • 🪟 If the power windows lost “auto” function: fully raise the window, then keep holding the switch up for 2-3 seconds to re-learn it.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $80-$170 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.


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