🔧 RDX - Battery Replacement

Your RDX’s 12V battery sits in the engine bay and powers starting and all electronics. Replacing it is mostly about removing the hold-down, swapping the battery, and reconnecting the cables in the correct order to avoid sparks and electrical issues.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

Assumption: typical Acura/Honda battery clamp/hold-down fasteners; torque values may vary—use the specs below as best-practice if you don’t have the manual.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Turn ignition OFF, remove the key/fob, and keep it away from the vehicle.
• ⚠️ Wear eye protection and gloves; batteries can vent acid and hydrogen gas.
• ⚠️ Always disconnect the negative (-) cable first, and reconnect it last.
• ⚠️ Do not let a tool touch both the battery terminal and metal body parts at the same time.
• ⚠️ Do not smoke or create sparks near the battery.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not “required,” but you will lose some settings unless you use a memory saver.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 6" extension for 3/8" ratchet
• 12mm socket
• Torque wrench (5-30 Nm range)
• Battery terminal brush
• Trim clip tool
• Fender cover
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 12V memory saver (OBD-II) (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 12V battery (Group 51R, 500+ CCA) - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion pads - Qty: 2
• Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Chock a rear wheel using wheel chocks.
• 🧤 Put on gloves and safety glasses.
• 🔌 Optional: Install a 12V memory saver (a small device that keeps vehicle memory alive during battery replacement) into the OBD-II port before disconnecting the battery.
• 🧽 Lay a fender cover to protect paint while you work.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Open the hood and locate the battery

• Open the hood and find the battery on the driver-side of the engine bay.
• If an air intake duct/cover blocks access, remove any push-clips using a trim clip tool.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable

• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the negative terminal nut.
• Lift the negative cable clamp off the battery post and tuck it to the side so it cannot spring back.
• Negative off first prevents accidental shorting.
• Torque to 5 Nm (4 ft-lbs) when reinstalling.

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) battery cable

• Flip open the positive terminal cover (if equipped).
• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the positive terminal nut.
• Lift the positive cable clamp off the battery post and move it aside.
• Torque to 5 Nm (4 ft-lbs) when reinstalling.

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down bracket

• Use a 10mm socket (and a 6" extension if needed) to remove the hold-down nuts/bolts.
• Lift the hold-down bracket and J-hooks (if equipped) out of the way.
• Torque to 9.8 Nm (7 ft-lbs) when reinstalling.

Step 5: Remove the old battery

• Grab the battery by the handle and lift it straight up and out.
• Set it on the ground upright (keep it level).
• If it’s heavy, use a safe lifting stance and keep your back straight.

Step 6: Clean the terminals and tray

• Use a battery terminal brush to lightly clean corrosion from the cable clamps.
• Wipe the battery tray area clean and ensure nothing is loose or damaged.
• Install battery terminal anti-corrosion pads onto the battery posts (one per post).

Step 7: Install the new battery

• Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one (positive and negative on the correct sides).
• Reinstall the hold-down bracket and tighten using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Finish tightening with a torque wrench: Torque to 9.8 Nm (7 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect cables (positive first, negative last)

• Install the positive (+) cable clamp first and tighten with a 10mm socket.
• Finish with a torque wrench: Torque to 5 Nm (4 ft-lbs).
• Install the negative (-) cable clamp last and tighten with a 10mm socket.
• Finish with a torque wrench: Torque to 5 Nm (4 ft-lbs).
• Spray a light coat of battery terminal protectant spray on the clamps.

Step 9: Reinstall any ducts/covers you removed

• Reinstall any air duct/cover and push-clips using your hands and a trim clip tool.
• Double-check nothing is left loose near the battery or intake.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and confirm it cranks strongly and the charging light is off.
• 🔎 Check that the battery is secure (it should not move when you push it).
• 🪟 If auto-up/down windows don’t work: raise the window fully, then hold the switch UP for ~2 seconds to relearn.
• 🧭 Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock once slowly if you see steering/VSA messages, then drive normally for a short distance.
• 📻 Reset clock and radio presets if they were lost (a memory saver usually prevents this).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$260 (parts only)

You Save: $80-$160 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.