How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2013-2018 Acura ILX (Group 51R) (Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2013-2018 Acura ILX (Group 51R) (Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015
đź”§ ILX - 12V Battery Replacement
Your ILX’s 12V battery powers starting and all electronics. Replacing it is straightforward: remove the hold-down, disconnect the cables (negative first), swap the battery, then reconnect (positive first).
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Wear eye protection and gloves; battery acid is corrosive.
- ⚠️ Keep metal tools away from both terminals at once to prevent sparks/shorts.
- ⚠️ Disconnect negative (-) first and reconnect it last.
- ⚠️ If your battery has a vent tube, reconnect it to prevent fumes in the engine bay.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 10mm wrench
- Ratchet (3/8")
- 6" extension (3/8")
- Battery terminal brush
- Torque wrench (in-lb)
- Gloves (chemical-resistant)
- Safety glasses
- Fender cover
- Memory saver (OBD-II) (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 12V car battery (Group Size 51R) - Qty: 1
- Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1
- Anti-corrosion terminal felt washers - Qty: 2
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and turn the ignition fully OFF.
- Open the hood and install a fender cover to protect paint.
- If you want to keep radio presets and clock, plug in a memory saver (a small backup power device that plugs into the OBD-II port) before disconnecting the battery.
- Make sure you know which terminal is + and which is - before loosening anything.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Access the battery
- Open the hood and locate the battery in the engine bay.
- If there’s a plastic cover over the battery area, remove it by hand (or use a 10mm socket if it’s bolted).
Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) cable first
- Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut on the negative (-) terminal clamp.
- Wiggle the clamp and lift it off the terminal. Tuck it to the side so it can’t spring back.
- Tip: Twist the clamp, don’t pry.
Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) cable
- Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut on the positive (+) terminal clamp.
- Lift the clamp off and move it aside, away from any metal.
Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down
- Use a 10mm socket, ratchet (3/8"), and 6" extension (3/8") to remove the hold-down nuts/bolts.
- Lift off the hold-down bracket and set it aside.
Step 5: Remove the old battery
- Lift the battery straight up and out. Batteries are heavy—lift with your legs, not your back.
- If your battery has a small vent tube, pull it off gently and remember where it connects.
Step 6: Clean and prep the terminals
- Use a battery terminal brush to clean corrosion from the cable clamps.
- Install anti-corrosion terminal felt washers if you’re using them.
Step 7: Install the new battery
- Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one (terminals in the same positions).
- Reconnect the vent tube if equipped.
- Reinstall the hold-down bracket and tighten with a 10mm socket.
- Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lb) for the hold-down fasteners.
Step 8: Reconnect cables (positive first, then negative)
- Install the positive (+) clamp first and tighten using a 10mm wrench.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb) for the terminal clamp nut.
- Install the negative (-) clamp last and tighten using a 10mm wrench.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb) for the terminal clamp nut.
- Spray terminals lightly with battery terminal protectant spray.
Step 9: Final check
- Try to rotate each clamp by hand—if it moves, tighten slightly with a 10mm wrench.
- Reinstall any covers you removed.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and confirm it cranks normally.
- Reset the clock and re-save radio presets if they were lost.
- If the power windows act “one-touch” weird, cycle each window fully down and fully up once to relearn.
- Check the dash for warning lights; most should clear after a short drive if everything is connected properly.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $140-$260 (parts only)
You Save: $80-$160 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Vehicle Battery replace for these Acura vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2018 Acura ILX | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2017 Acura ILX | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2016 Acura ILX | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2015 Acura ILX | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2015 Acura ILX | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2014 Acura ILX | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2014 Acura ILX | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2013 Acura ILX | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2013 Acura ILX | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |


















