🔧 Altima - Suspension Bushing Replacement

On your Altima, “suspension bushings” can mean several different rubber mounts (control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, rear link bushings, etc.). The exact procedure, parts, and torque specs change a lot depending on which bushing and which axle (front vs rear) you’re doing.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 1.5-6.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on the pinch welds/subframe; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lowering suspension arms; they can spring/move suddenly.
• ⚠️ Do not tighten suspension arm bolts with the wheels hanging; bushings can tear if “preloaded.”
• ⚠️ If you remove a subframe or steering-related parts, the car may need an alignment afterward.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Socket set (8mm-22mm)
• Wrench set (8mm-22mm)
• Pry bar (18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Work light
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Bushing press kit (specialty)
• Hydraulic shop press (12-ton minimum) (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Suspension bushing(s) (location-specific) - Qty: 1-4
• Control arm / suspension link (optional complete assembly, location-specific) - Qty: 1-2
• New self-locking nuts/bolts (as required, location-specific) - Qty: 1-8

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the opposite end you’re lifting.
• Loosen lug nuts slightly with a breaker bar and correct socket before lifting.
• Plan for an alignment if you’re removing a control arm, rear link, or subframe.
• Bushing press work often needs a shop press.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which bushing you’re replacing

• Lift the suspected end using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and secure with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a socket set (8mm-22mm).
• Inspect bushings using a work light and pry bar (18").
• Look for torn rubber, leaking hydraulic fluid (some bushings are fluid-filled), or metal-to-metal contact.

Step 2: Decide “press bushing” vs “replace the whole arm/link”

• If the bushing is pressed into a control arm/link, you’ll typically need a hydraulic shop press (12-ton minimum) (specialty) or bushing press kit (specialty).
• If you replace the complete arm/link, you usually avoid pressing work, but you must torque bolts correctly and get an alignment.
• Mark the position of any eccentric/alignment cam bolts (if equipped) with a paint marker.

Step 3: Send me the two details below so I can give the exact Nissan procedure and torque specs

• Tell me which location: front lower control arm, front sway bar, rear lateral link, rear trailing arm, or subframe bushing.
• Tell me which side/axle: front left/right or rear left/right.

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✅ After Repair

• Torque all suspension fasteners using a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range) only after the suspension is at normal ride height (car sitting on ramps or supported under the control arm).
• Road test at low speed first and listen for clunks.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment if any control arm/link/subframe fasteners were loosened or removed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $260-$1,200 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-6.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

Reply with: (1) which bushing location, and (2) front or rear (and which side). HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.