🔧 Suspension Bushings - Replacement

Assumption: This covers a typical control arm bushing replacement on your Explorer. Bushings are press-fit rubber mounts, so the job usually involves removing the control arm and pressing the old bushing out, then installing the new one.

This is a labor-heavy repair and alignment is usually required afterward. If the bushings are worn, you may also have clunks, tire wear, or loose steering feel.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and support the Explorer with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• Suspension components are under load. Keep hands clear when loosening bolts and lowering arms.
• If equipped with an electronic parking brake, make sure it is released before moving suspension parts near the rear.
• Torque all suspension fasteners only at normal ride height when required by the service design.
• An alignment is strongly recommended after this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar
• Metric socket set
• Metric combination wrench set
• Torque wrench
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Bushing press kit (specialty)
• Hydraulic press (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Suspension bushing set - Qty: 1
• Control arm hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Alignment service - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen wheel lug nuts before raising the vehicle if the wheel must come off.
• Spray suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak.
• Mark bolt positions before removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the vehicle

• Use a floor jack to raise the Explorer at the proper lift point.
• Support it with jack stands before working underneath.
• Remove the wheel if it blocks access to the suspension arm.

Step 2: Disconnect the suspension arm

• Use the correct metric socket and metric wrench to remove the control arm or link fasteners.
• If a ball joint must separate, use a ball joint separator.
• Support the arm with the floor jack so it does not drop suddenly.

Step 3: Remove the control arm or bushing carrier

• Use the proper metric socket and breaker bar to remove the mounting bolts.
• Lower the arm carefully and remove it from the vehicle.
• Keep track of washer and bracket order.

Step 4: Press out the old bushing

• Use a bushing press kit or hydraulic press to remove the worn bushing.
• Clean the bore with a brush and inspect for cracks or damage.
• If the arm is bent or rusted, replace the arm instead.

Step 5: Install the new bushing

• Use the bushing press kit or hydraulic press to press the new bushing in squarely.
• Align any marks or arrows on the bushing exactly as the original orientation.
• Do not over-compress the rubber.

Step 6: Reinstall the suspension arm

• Position the arm back in place and start all bolts by hand.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten fasteners to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) for typical control arm mounting hardware unless the part instructions specify otherwise.
• If a bushing is tightened at ride height, raise the suspension with the floor jack until normal ride height is reached before final torque.

Step 7: Reassemble and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel and tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Lower the Explorer to the ground.
• Tighten wheel lug nuts to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) if wheel removal was required.

Step 8: Verify the repair

• Inspect for loose hardware and check that nothing binds through suspension travel.
• Drive slowly and listen for clunks or squeaks.
• Get an alignment right away.

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✅ After Repair

• Have the front end aligned as soon as possible.
• Check for abnormal tire wear after a few days of driving.
• Recheck all fasteners after the first road test if accessible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.