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2020 Ram 1500 Classic
2019 - 2024 Ram 1500 Classic
V8 5.7L
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πŸ”§ Replacing the spark plugs - 2019-2024 Ram 1500 Hemi E-torque

πŸ”§ Replacing the spark plugs - 2019-2024 Ram 1500 Hemi E-torque

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Ratchet
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
5/8"
5/8"
Deep Socket
or (16mm)
Torque
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How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2020 Ram 1500 Classic 5.7L HEMI

Step-by-step DIY spark plug change with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and pro installation tricks for 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024

How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2020 Ram 1500 Classic 5.7L HEMI

Step-by-step DIY spark plug change with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and pro installation tricks for 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024

Orion
Orion

1500 Classic - Spark Plug Replacement πŸ”§

Your 5.7 HEMI uses 16 spark plugs (2 per cylinder). I’ll walk you through it step by step, beginner-friendly.

Tools & Parts You’ll Need 🧰

  • πŸ”§ Parts
    • 16x spark plugs, OEM-spec for 2020 5.7 HEMI (usually NGK or Champion, copper or iridium depending on spec).
    • Optional: small packet of dielectric grease (non-conductive grease for electrical boots).
    • Optional: small packet of anti-seize (only if plug manufacturer allows it; many say do not use).
  • πŸ”§ Tools
    • 3/8" ratchet (standard hand wrench with a square drive).
    • 5/8" spark plug socket with rubber insert or magnet.
    • 3" and 6" extensions for the ratchet.
    • 10 mm socket (for coil pack bolts).
    • Torque wrench (3/8" drive, capable of 10–25 ft-lb).
    • Flat trim tool or flat screwdriver (to gently release clips if needed).
    • Compressed air or a clean brush (to clean around plugs).
    • Gloves and safety glasses.

Key Specs & Important Info πŸ“

  • πŸ”© Number of plugs: 16 (2 per cylinder).
  • πŸ”© Coil pack bolts: ~8 NΒ·m (71 in-lb) – snug, not very tight.
  • πŸ”© Spark plug torque (5.7 HEMI, tapered seat plugs):
    • With clean, dry threads: typically 13–15 ft-lb.
    • If plug maker says to use anti-seize, reduce torque by ~20%.
  • πŸ“ Gap: Use the gap specified on the plug box / Ram spec (often around 0.043"–0.044", but always confirm for the exact plug number).

Safety First ⚠️

  • πŸ›‘ Work on a cold engine. The aluminum heads can be damaged if you remove/install plugs when hot.
  • πŸ›‘ Disconnect the negative battery terminal (10 mm) to avoid accidental shorts or check-engine lights while unplugging coils.
  • πŸ›‘ Keep tools and hardware out of the engine bay; a dropped bolt can be a pain to retrieve.

Step 1 – Access the Top of the Engine 🧱

  • πŸ”§ If you have a plastic engine cover:
    • Gently pull up at the corners; it’s held by rubber grommets.
    • Lift it off and set aside.
  • πŸ”§ Make sure you have good light on both sides of the engine; you’ll be working along the valve covers.

Step 2 – Understand the Coil & Plug Layout 🧠

  • πŸ”§ Each cylinder has:
    • 1x coil pack (black unit with an electrical connector).
    • 2x spark plugs under that coil (the coil fires both plugs).
  • πŸ”§ You’ll remove one coil at a time, then remove the two plugs for that cylinder, then reinstall with new plugs. This keeps things organized.

Step 3 – Disconnect Battery πŸ”‹

  • πŸ”§ Use a 10 mm wrench or socket.
  • πŸ”§ Loosen the negative (-) terminal clamp and move the cable aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 4 – Remove First Coil Pack (Start on One Side) πŸ”Œ

  • πŸ”§ Pick a cylinder (front on passenger side is a good start).
  • πŸ”§ On the coil:
    • Press the tab on the electrical connector and pull the connector straight off. If stuck, gently pry the tab with a small flat screwdriver.
    • Remove the 10 mm bolt holding the coil to the valve cover.
    • Twist the coil slightly to break the seal, then pull it straight up. This exposes the two plug holes.

Step 5 – Clean Around Plug Holes 🧼

  • πŸ”§ Use compressed air or a small brush to blow/brush out any dirt around the plug wells.
  • πŸ”§ This prevents debris from falling into the cylinder when you remove the plugs.

Step 6 – Remove the Old Spark Plugs 🧲

  • πŸ”§ Attach your 5/8" spark plug socket to an extension and ratchet.
  • πŸ”§ Carefully lower the socket into the first plug hole until you feel it seat on the plug.
  • πŸ”§ Turn counterclockwise to loosen. If it feels very tight:
    • Do not force it suddenly. Apply steady pressure.
    • If it squeaks, stop, turn slightly back in, then out again. This helps avoid thread damage.
  • πŸ”§ Once loose, spin it out by hand with the extension and pull the plug up with the socket.
  • πŸ”§ Repeat for the second plug in that cylinder (same coil location, second hole).
  • πŸ”§ Keep the old plugs in order if you want to inspect them later (color, wear, oil, etc.).

Step 7 – Check and Prepare New Plugs πŸ†•

  • πŸ”§ Use a spark plug gap tool (simple round or wire gauge) to check the gap on each new plug.
  • πŸ”§ Adjust gently if needed:
    • Bend only the ground strap (the small L-shaped arm), not the center electrode.
  • πŸ”§ If the plug manufacturer says no anti-seize, install them dry. Many modern plugs are pre-coated.
  • πŸ”§ If allowed and you choose to use anti-seize, apply a very thin film on the threads only, avoiding the tip.

Step 8 – Install New Spark Plugs πŸ”©

  • πŸ”§ Start each plug by hand:
    • Put the plug in the socket, lower it into the hole.
    • Turn the extension by hand clockwise several turns. It should thread in smoothly.
    • If it resists or feels cross-threaded, stop, back it out, and start again.
  • πŸ”§ Once finger-tight, attach the torque wrench and tighten to about 13–15 ft-lb (or the exact spec on the plug/engine data if provided).
  • πŸ”§ Repeat for the second plug in that cylinder.

Step 9 – Reinstall Coil Pack πŸ”

  • πŸ”§ Inspect the coil boot (the rubber tube that goes over the plug). If it’s cracked or very hard, it’s a good time to replace the coil or boot.
  • πŸ”§ Optional: put a tiny dab of dielectric grease inside the boot opening to help sealing and future removal.
  • πŸ”§ Push the coil straight down over the plugs until fully seated.
  • πŸ”§ Reinstall the 10 mm bolt and snug it to about 8 NΒ·m (71 in-lb) – just firm, don’t crank on it.
  • πŸ”§ Plug the electrical connector back in until it clicks.

Step 10 – Repeat for All Cylinders πŸ”„

  • πŸ”§ Move cylinder by cylinder along one side, then the other:
    • Remove coil β†’ remove 2 plugs β†’ install 2 new plugs β†’ reinstall coil.
  • πŸ”§ Take your time; doing all 16 plugs can be a bit long but very doable.
  • πŸ”§ Some rear cylinders are tighter for access; use different extension lengths to make it easier.

Step 11 – Reassemble & Reconnect πŸ”š

  • πŸ”§ If removed, reinstall the plastic engine cover by lining up the grommets and pressing down.
  • πŸ”§ Reconnect the negative battery terminal and tighten the 10 mm nut snugly.

Step 12 – First Start & Check βœ…

  • πŸ”§ Start your 1500 Classic.
  • πŸ”§ It may crank a second longer than usual the first time; then it should settle into a smooth idle.
  • πŸ”§ Check:
    • No misfire or shaking.
    • No check engine light.
    • No loose connectors or tools left in the bay.

Tips & Tricks πŸ’‘

  • 🧰 Do one coil/cylinder at a time so you never mix connectors or bolts.
  • 🧰 A magnetic pickup tool is handy if you drop a bolt.
  • 🧰 If you ever get a check engine light after the job, double-check that every coil connector is fully clicked in.

If you tell me which spark plug brand/part number you plan to use, I can confirm the correct gap and torque for that exact plug.

HowToo makes it easy: below this answer you’ll see recommended spark plugs, dielectric grease, a proper spark plug socket, and a torque wrench you can add to your cart with same-day/2-day shipping.

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