How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2020 Mazda CX-5 2.5L (DIY Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts, plug gap tips, and torque specs for coils and plugs to prevent misfires
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2020 Mazda CX-5 2.5L (DIY Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts, plug gap tips, and torque specs for coils and plugs to prevent misfires


🔧 CX-5 - Spark Plug Replacement
On your CX-5, the spark plugs sit under the ignition coils on top of the engine. Replacing them restores smooth starts, fuel economy, and helps prevent misfires as mileage builds.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a fully cool engine to avoid stripped threads and burns.
- ⚠️ Do not overtighten plugs—aluminum cylinder head threads can strip.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the plug wells; blow/vacuum before removing plugs.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but keep the ignition OFF and the key/fob away from the vehicle while you unplug coils.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension set (3" and 6")
- 14mm spark plug socket (thin-wall, rubber insert)
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 5–30 ft-lb range)
- Trim clip tool
- Compressed air blow gun
- Shop vacuum
- Wire-style spark plug gap gauge
- Small pick tool
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Iridium spark plugs (OEM-style for 2.5L) - Qty: 4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool completely (at least 1 hour after driving).
- Open the hood and remove any loose items around the engine bay.
- If you have compressed air, set it up now; you’ll use it to clean the plug wells before removal.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Grip the plastic engine cover and pull upward firmly to release it from the rubber grommets.
- If a corner feels stuck, use a trim clip tool to gently pry upward.
Step 2: Unplug the ignition coils
- There are 4 coils on top of the engine (one per cylinder).
- Press the electrical connector tab and pull the connector off each coil.
- If the tab is stubborn, use a small pick tool to gently lift the lock while pulling. Don’t pull on the wires.
Step 3: Remove the ignition coils
- Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the 10mm bolt holding each coil.
- Twist the coil slightly, then pull it straight up and out of the spark plug tube.
- Set coils aside in order so they go back to the same cylinder.
- During reassembly: Torque to 8–10 Nm (71–89 in-lbs)
Step 4: Clean the spark plug wells
- Use a shop vacuum to remove loose dirt around the tubes.
- Then use compressed air blow gun to blow out each plug well.
- This prevents grit from falling into the cylinder when the plug comes out.
Step 5: Remove the old spark plugs
- Install a 14mm spark plug socket (thin-wall, rubber insert) on a 3/8" drive extension (6") and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Lower the socket straight down onto the plug and loosen counterclockwise.
- Once loose, continue turning by hand with the extension to avoid cross-threading on the way out.
- Lift the plug out with the socket (the rubber insert helps hold it).
Step 6: Check and prepare the new spark plugs
- Verify the new plugs match the old plugs in length and seat style.
- Use a wire-style spark plug gap gauge to confirm the gap is within spec.
- On iridium plugs, do not “re-gap” by prying on the center electrode (it can crack). If the gap is off, exchange the plug.
- Apply a tiny dab of dielectric grease inside each coil boot (this helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier).
Step 7: Install the new spark plugs
- Place a new plug into the 14mm spark plug socket and lower it straight into the tube.
- Thread the plug in by hand using only the extension (no ratchet) until it seats. This prevents cross-threading.
- Switch to a torque wrench (3/8" drive, 5–30 ft-lb range) and tighten each plug: Torque to 15–20 Nm (11–15 ft-lbs)
- Do not use anti-seize unless the plug maker specifically requires it (most OEM-style plated plugs do not).
Step 8: Reinstall ignition coils and connectors
- Push each coil straight down until fully seated on the plug.
- Install the coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket and tighten: Torque to 8–10 Nm (71–89 in-lbs)
- Reconnect each coil electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 9: Reinstall the engine cover
- Align the cover with the mounting points and press down firmly until it snaps into place.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds; it should run smooth.
- Listen for any “ticking” (could indicate a loose plug) and recheck torque if needed.
- If you had a check-engine light for a misfire, you may need a scan tool to clear codes after the fix.
- Take a short test drive and confirm there’s no hesitation under light acceleration.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $50-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $130-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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