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2019 Nissan Rogue
2019 Nissan Rogue
SV - Inline 4 2.5L
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How to Replace Spark Plugs 2014-2020 Nissan Rogue 2.5L

How to Replace Spark Plugs 2014-2020 Nissan Rogue 2.5L

Suggested Parts

No Parts Required

Tools & Fluids

Ratchet
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
Ratchet
Ratchet
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How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2019 Nissan Rogue 2.5L QR25DE

Step-by-step DIY spark plug change with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings

How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2019 Nissan Rogue 2.5L QR25DE

Step-by-step DIY spark plug change with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 Rogue - Spark Plug Replacement

You’ll be replacing the four spark plugs on your Rogue’s 2.5L engine. This helps restore smooth idle, better fuel economy, and easier starting.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Let the engine cool completely before working; hot parts can burn you.
  • 🛑 Keep metal tools away from the battery terminals to avoid sparks.
  • 🛑 Do not pull on ignition coil wires; only pull on the plastic coil body.
  • 🛑 Work in a well-ventilated area and keep loose clothing and jewelry away from moving parts.
  • 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required, but you can remove the negative terminal for extra safety using a 10mm wrench.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 🧰 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 🧰 6" 3/8" drive extension
  • 🧰 Spark plug socket 14mm (3/8" drive, with rubber insert)
  • 🧰 10mm socket
  • 🧰 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 🧰 1/4" drive 6" extension
  • 🧰 Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 5–50 ft-lbs range)
  • 🧰 Flathead screwdriver (medium)
  • 🧰 Spark plug gap gauge (coin or wire style)
  • 🧰 Clean rag
  • 🧰 Shop vacuum
  • 🧰 Dielectric grease
  • 🧰 Anti-seize compound
  • 🧰 Mechanic’s gloves
  • 🧰 Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • 🔩 Iridium spark plugs (correct for 2.5L QR25DE) - Qty: 4
  • 🔩 Throttle body/intake cleaner spray - Qty: 1
  • 🔩 Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🧭 Park your Rogue on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • 🧭 Turn the engine off and remove the key; let the engine cool at least 30 minutes.
  • 🧭 Open the hood and secure it with the hood prop rod.
  • 🧭 Optional: Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery terminal if you want extra safety.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover

  • Use your hands to pull up on the plastic engine cover; it is held by rubber grommets, not bolts.
  • Lift it straight up and set it aside somewhere safe.
  • Pull evenly from both sides.

Step 2: Locate the ignition coils

  • You will see four black plastic ignition coils on top of the engine, each with an electrical connector; these sit directly above the spark plugs.
  • Use a clean rag to wipe dirt away from the area around each coil to avoid debris falling into the cylinders.

Step 3: Unplug the first ignition coil

  • Start with the coil closest to the front of the vehicle (it does not matter which one you start with, but do them one at a time).
  • Press down on the small locking tab of the connector with your thumb or a flathead screwdriver and gently pull the connector straight back.
  • Do not pull on the wires.

Step 4: Remove the ignition coil

  • Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 1/4" 6" extension to remove the single bolt holding the coil.
  • Pull the coil straight up by hand; it may feel snug as the rubber boot lets go of the plug.
  • Set the coil aside where it will stay clean.

Step 5: Clean around the spark plug well

  • Look down the spark plug tube with a light. If you see dirt or sand around the plug, use a shop vacuum with a narrow nozzle to suck out debris.
  • Keep debris out of cylinders.

Step 6: Remove the old spark plug

  • Attach the 14mm spark plug socket to the 6" 3/8" extension and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Lower the socket straight down onto the plug and make sure it seats fully.
  • Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to loosen the plug and thread it out by hand once it is loose.
  • Carefully lift the plug out; the rubber insert in the spark plug socket should hold it.

Step 7: Check and prepare the new spark plug

  • Use the spark plug gap gauge to verify the gap is about 1.1 mm (0.043 in), which is typical for this engine’s OEM plugs and usually pre-set.
  • Do not bend the fine iridium center tip; if the gap is off by a lot, replace the plug rather than forcing it.
  • Apply a very thin smear of anti-seize compound to the plug threads only. Avoid the electrode and porcelain.
  • Only a light film is needed.

Step 8: Install the new spark plug

  • Place the new plug into the 14mm spark plug socket and lower it into the plug well.
  • Thread it in by hand using just the extension (no ratchet) at first; turn clockwise and make sure it spins easily.
  • If you feel resistance right away, back it out and start again to avoid cross-threading.
  • Once finger-tight, attach the 3/8" ratchet and snug it gently.
  • Attach the torque wrench set to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) and tighten the plug to this spec.
  • Use torque wrench for correct tightness.

Step 9: Reinstall the ignition coil

  • Inspect the coil boot for cracks or oil; if badly worn, plan to replace coils later.
  • Put a tiny dab of dielectric grease inside the tip of the rubber boot (this helps sealing and future removal).
  • Push the coil straight down onto the new plug until it fully seats.
  • Install the 10mm bolt with a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet and tighten to about 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)—just snug, not very tight.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until you hear or feel a click.

Step 10: Repeat for the remaining three cylinders

  • Repeat Steps 3–9 for each of the other three coils and spark plugs, doing them one cylinder at a time.
  • One at a time avoids mix-ups.

Step 11: Reinstall the engine cover

  • Line up the engine cover grommets with the mounting pegs on top of the engine.
  • Press down firmly at each corner until it snaps into place.

Step 12: Reconnect the battery (if disconnected)

  • Use a 10mm wrench to reinstall and tighten the negative battery terminal if you removed it.
  • Make sure the clamp is snug but not over-tightened.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start the engine and let it idle; it should start quickly and run smoothly without misfires or shaking.
  • ✅ If the check engine light comes on or the engine runs rough, turn it off and re-check the coil connectors and plug wiring.
  • ✅ Take a short test drive, listening for smooth acceleration and normal power.
  • ✅ After the drive, recheck under the hood to be sure all connectors are still fully seated and the engine cover is secure.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250–$400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60–$120 (parts only)

You Save: $190–$280 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8–1.0 hours.


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