How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2019 Nissan Rogue 2.5L QR25DE
Step-by-step DIY spark plug change with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2019 Nissan Rogue 2.5L QR25DE
Step-by-step DIY spark plug change with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings


🔧 Rogue - Spark Plug Replacement
You’ll be replacing the four spark plugs on your Rogue’s 2.5L engine. This helps restore smooth idle, better fuel economy, and easier starting.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Let the engine cool completely before working; hot parts can burn you.
- 🛑 Keep metal tools away from the battery terminals to avoid sparks.
- 🛑 Do not pull on ignition coil wires; only pull on the plastic coil body.
- 🛑 Work in a well-ventilated area and keep loose clothing and jewelry away from moving parts.
- 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required, but you can remove the negative terminal for extra safety using a 10mm wrench.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 🧰 3/8" drive ratchet
- 🧰 6" 3/8" drive extension
- 🧰 Spark plug socket 14mm (3/8" drive, with rubber insert)
- 🧰 10mm socket
- 🧰 1/4" drive ratchet
- 🧰 1/4" drive 6" extension
- 🧰 Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 5–50 ft-lbs range)
- 🧰 Flathead screwdriver (medium)
- 🧰 Spark plug gap gauge (coin or wire style)
- 🧰 Clean rag
- 🧰 Shop vacuum
- 🧰 Dielectric grease
- 🧰 Anti-seize compound
- 🧰 Mechanic’s gloves
- 🧰 Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 🔩 Iridium spark plugs (correct for 2.5L QR25DE) - Qty: 4
- 🔩 Throttle body/intake cleaner spray - Qty: 1
- 🔩 Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack
📋 Before You Begin
- 🧭 Park your Rogue on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- 🧭 Turn the engine off and remove the key; let the engine cool at least 30 minutes.
- 🧭 Open the hood and secure it with the hood prop rod.
- 🧭 Optional: Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery terminal if you want extra safety.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Use your hands to pull up on the plastic engine cover; it is held by rubber grommets, not bolts.
- Lift it straight up and set it aside somewhere safe.
- Pull evenly from both sides.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- You will see four black plastic ignition coils on top of the engine, each with an electrical connector; these sit directly above the spark plugs.
- Use a clean rag to wipe dirt away from the area around each coil to avoid debris falling into the cylinders.
Step 3: Unplug the first ignition coil
- Start with the coil closest to the front of the vehicle (it does not matter which one you start with, but do them one at a time).
- Press down on the small locking tab of the connector with your thumb or a flathead screwdriver and gently pull the connector straight back.
- Do not pull on the wires.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coil
- Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 1/4" 6" extension to remove the single bolt holding the coil.
- Pull the coil straight up by hand; it may feel snug as the rubber boot lets go of the plug.
- Set the coil aside where it will stay clean.
Step 5: Clean around the spark plug well
- Look down the spark plug tube with a light. If you see dirt or sand around the plug, use a shop vacuum with a narrow nozzle to suck out debris.
- Keep debris out of cylinders.
Step 6: Remove the old spark plug
- Attach the 14mm spark plug socket to the 6" 3/8" extension and 3/8" ratchet.
- Lower the socket straight down onto the plug and make sure it seats fully.
- Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to loosen the plug and thread it out by hand once it is loose.
- Carefully lift the plug out; the rubber insert in the spark plug socket should hold it.
Step 7: Check and prepare the new spark plug
- Use the spark plug gap gauge to verify the gap is about 1.1 mm (0.043 in), which is typical for this engine’s OEM plugs and usually pre-set.
- Do not bend the fine iridium center tip; if the gap is off by a lot, replace the plug rather than forcing it.
- Apply a very thin smear of anti-seize compound to the plug threads only. Avoid the electrode and porcelain.
- Only a light film is needed.
Step 8: Install the new spark plug
- Place the new plug into the 14mm spark plug socket and lower it into the plug well.
- Thread it in by hand using just the extension (no ratchet) at first; turn clockwise and make sure it spins easily.
- If you feel resistance right away, back it out and start again to avoid cross-threading.
- Once finger-tight, attach the 3/8" ratchet and snug it gently.
- Attach the torque wrench set to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) and tighten the plug to this spec.
- Use torque wrench for correct tightness.
Step 9: Reinstall the ignition coil
- Inspect the coil boot for cracks or oil; if badly worn, plan to replace coils later.
- Put a tiny dab of dielectric grease inside the tip of the rubber boot (this helps sealing and future removal).
- Push the coil straight down onto the new plug until it fully seats.
- Install the 10mm bolt with a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet and tighten to about 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)—just snug, not very tight.
- Reconnect the electrical connector until you hear or feel a click.
Step 10: Repeat for the remaining three cylinders
- Repeat Steps 3–9 for each of the other three coils and spark plugs, doing them one cylinder at a time.
- One at a time avoids mix-ups.
Step 11: Reinstall the engine cover
- Line up the engine cover grommets with the mounting pegs on top of the engine.
- Press down firmly at each corner until it snaps into place.
Step 12: Reconnect the battery (if disconnected)
- Use a 10mm wrench to reinstall and tighten the negative battery terminal if you removed it.
- Make sure the clamp is snug but not over-tightened.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle; it should start quickly and run smoothly without misfires or shaking.
- ✅ If the check engine light comes on or the engine runs rough, turn it off and re-check the coil connectors and plug wiring.
- ✅ Take a short test drive, listening for smooth acceleration and normal power.
- ✅ After the drive, recheck under the hood to be sure all connectors are still fully seated and the engine cover is secure.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250–$400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60–$120 (parts only)
You Save: $190–$280 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8–1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections above to add everything to your cart.















