How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2018 Toyota Avalon (Front & Rear Bank, Plenum Removal)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, intake manifold removal tips, and torque specs for 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2018 Toyota Avalon (Front & Rear Bank, Plenum Removal)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, intake manifold removal tips, and torque specs for 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Spark Plugs - Replacement
On your Avalon, the front 3 spark plugs are easy to reach, but the rear 3 sit under the upper intake manifold (the “plenum”), so you’ll remove the intake top to access them. Replacing all 6 at once prevents repeat labor and helps avoid misfires and rough running.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0–4.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a fully cool engine to avoid burns and damaged threads.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake—cover openings with a clean towel once the plenum is off.
- ⚠️ Do not pry on plastic connectors; release the lock tab first.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but if you’re nervous around electrical connectors, disconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm wrench.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fender cover
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–30 ft-lbs range)
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket (3/8" drive)
- 3/8" drive extension set (3", 6", 10")
- Universal joint swivel (3/8" drive)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim clip tool
- Long needle-nose pliers
- Compressed air blow gun
- Shop towels
- Paint marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs (OEM-spec iridium) - Qty: 6
- Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool completely (at least 1–2 hours after driving).
- Use a paint marker to mark any vacuum hoses you remove so they go back to the same place.
- If disconnecting the battery: loosen the negative terminal with a 10mm socket and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Pull straight up on the engine cover to release it from its rubber grommets.
- Set it aside on a clean surface.
Step 2: Unplug and remove the front-bank ignition coils (front 3 plugs)
- Unplug each coil connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling straight back.
- Remove each coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket.
- Pull each coil straight up and out, then set them in order. Keep coils in the same cylinders.
- During reassembly: Torque coil bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 3: Remove the front-bank spark plugs
- Blow out each spark plug well using a compressed air blow gun so dirt can’t fall into the cylinder.
- Remove each plug using a 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket with a 3/8" drive extension and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Spark plug socket = a deep socket with a rubber insert that grips the plug so you can lift it out.
Step 4: Remove the air intake duct (to access the plenum)
- Loosen the intake hose clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Unclip/unbolt any intake duct fasteners using a 10mm socket.
- Lift the duct out and set it aside.
Step 5: Disconnect the throttle body electrical connector and hoses
- Unplug the throttle body connector (press the lock tab, then pull straight off).
- If any small hoses/lines block access, release clamps using long needle-nose pliers and move the hose aside.
- Use shop towels to catch any small drips.
Step 6: Remove the throttle body (recommended for room and gasket replacement)
- Remove the throttle body mounting bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Remove the throttle body and the old gasket.
- During reassembly: install a new gasket and torque throttle body bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 7: Remove the upper intake manifold (plenum)
- Disconnect any remaining vacuum/PCV hoses from the plenum using long needle-nose pliers (move clamps back first).
- Unplug any sensors/solenoids attached to the plenum by releasing the lock tab.
- Remove the plenum mounting bolts/nuts using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Lift the plenum off carefully.
- Immediately cover the lower intake openings with shop towels.
- During reassembly: install new plenum gaskets and torque plenum bolts/nuts to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Unplug and remove the rear-bank ignition coils (rear 3 plugs)
- Unplug each rear coil connector.
- Remove each coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket.
- Pull coils straight up and set them aside in order.
- During reassembly: torque coil bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 9: Remove the rear-bank spark plugs
- Blow out the plug wells using a compressed air blow gun.
- Remove plugs using the 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket, a universal joint swivel, and the needed 3/8" drive extensions.
- Turn steadily. If one feels stuck, stop and work it gently to avoid thread damage.
Step 10: Install the new spark plugs
- Compare new vs old plugs to confirm matching length and tip style.
- Start each plug by hand using the spark plug socket and a 3/8" drive extension (no ratchet yet) to prevent cross-threading.
- Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque spark plugs to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside each coil boot before reinstalling coils.
Step 11: Reassemble the intake and intake duct
- Remove the shop towels from the intake ports.
- Install the plenum with new gaskets and tighten fasteners evenly using a 12mm socket, then torque plenum bolts/nuts to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the throttle body with a new gasket using a 10mm socket, then torque throttle body bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Reconnect all hoses and electrical connectors until they click.
- Reinstall the air intake duct and tighten clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
Step 12: Reinstall the engine cover
- Press the cover straight down until it seats into the grommets.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes.
- Listen for a hissing sound (vacuum leak) and check that the idle is smooth.
- If you disconnected the battery, the idle may relearn for a few minutes.
- Test drive 10–15 minutes, then recheck for any warning lights.
- If you have a scan tool and had a misfire light before, clear codes and confirm none return.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $90-$220 (parts only)
You Save: $360-$630 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.0-3.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















