How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2018 Toyota 4Runner 4.0L V6 (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, intake removal tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2018 Toyota 4Runner 4.0L V6 (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, intake removal tips, and torque specs


đź”§ 4Runner - Spark Plug Replacement
Your 4Runner uses 6 spark plugs (one per cylinder). Replacing them restores smooth starting, idle quality, and fuel economy, and helps prevent misfires as mileage builds.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-4.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on a fully cool engine to avoid burns and to protect aluminum threads.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging sensors/throttle body connectors.
- Do not blow debris into the spark plug holes; dirt can damage the engine.
- Do not use anti-seize on the new plugs; Toyota plugs are plated and torque changes with anti-seize.
- Use a torque wrench (a tool that tightens to an exact setting) to avoid stripping threads.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3/8" torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
- 1/4" torque wrench (in-lb range)
- 5/8" spark plug socket
- 3/8" extension set (3", 6", 10")
- 3/8" universal joint adapter
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip removal tool
- Compressed air blow gun
- Shop vacuum
- Magnetic pickup tool
- Clean rags
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs (iridium, correct OEM equivalent) - Qty: 6
- Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely (at least 1 hour).
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and isolate the cable so it can’t spring back.
- Label connectors with masking tape if you’re new to this. Photos help a lot.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Lift off the plastic engine cover by pulling it upward firmly with both hands.
Step 2: Remove the air intake tube
- Loosen the hose clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
- Unclip or remove any attached small hoses/sensors carefully (use needle-nose pliers for spring clamps).
- Remove the intake tube and set it aside with its clamps.
Step 3: Replace the 3 easy-to-reach spark plugs (passenger-side bank)
- Unplug one ignition coil connector at a time (press the tab, then pull).
- Remove the coil bolt using a 10mm socket and pull the coil straight up.
- Blow debris away from the spark plug well using compressed air blow gun.
- Remove the spark plug using a 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8" ratchet, and extension.
- Install the new spark plug by hand first using the spark plug socket and extension (no ratchet yet) to prevent cross-threading.
- Tighten the spark plug using a 3/8" torque wrench: Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
- Apply a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside the coil boot (this helps prevent moisture-related misfires).
- Reinstall the coil and tighten the coil bolt with a 1/4" torque wrench: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the coil connector.
- Repeat for the other 2 plugs on this side.
Step 4: Remove the throttle body (to access the intake manifold)
- Unplug the throttle body electrical connector.
- Remove the throttle body mounting bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Lift the throttle body off and set it aside (do not force the wiring).
- Remove and discard the old throttle body gasket.
- Cover the intake opening with a clean rag to keep hardware out.
- When reinstalling later, tighten throttle body bolts with a 1/4" torque wrench: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the upper intake manifold (to reach the driver-side plugs)
- Disconnect any vacuum/PCV hoses attached to the upper intake using needle-nose pliers as needed.
- Unplug any connectors that prevent lifting the manifold (use your photos/labels).
- Remove the upper intake manifold bolts/nuts using a 12mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Lift the upper intake manifold off carefully and set it on a clean surface.
- Remove and discard the old upper intake manifold gaskets.
- Cover the lower intake ports with clean rags. Do not drop anything inside.
Step 6: Replace the 3 driver-side spark plugs
- Remove each ignition coil connector and coil bolt using a 10mm socket, then pull the coil straight out.
- Blow out each spark plug well using compressed air blow gun.
- Remove each plug using a 5/8" spark plug socket, extension, and a 3/8" universal joint adapter (a swivel that helps at angles).
- Hand-thread each new plug first, then tighten with a 3/8" torque wrench: Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall coils and tighten coil bolts with a 1/4" torque wrench: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Reconnect coil connectors.
Step 7: Reinstall the upper intake manifold with new gaskets
- Remove the rags covering the intake ports and verify nothing fell in.
- Install the new upper intake manifold gaskets in the correct positions.
- Set the manifold back in place.
- Install bolts/nuts finger-tight first, then tighten evenly using a 12mm socket.
- Final tighten using a 3/8" torque wrench: Torque to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
- Reconnect all hoses and electrical connectors you removed.
Step 8: Reinstall the throttle body with a new gasket
- Remove the rag from the opening.
- Install the new throttle body gasket.
- Reinstall the throttle body and tighten bolts using a 1/4" torque wrench: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the throttle body electrical connector.
Step 9: Reinstall the air intake and engine cover
- Reinstall the intake tube and tighten clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
- Reinstall any clips using a trim clip removal tool as needed.
- Press the engine cover back into place.
Step 10: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 2 minutes; it may idle slightly high at first.
- Listen for vacuum leaks (a loud hissing) around the intake manifold area.
- Verify there’s no check engine light and the engine runs smoothly.
- Take a short test drive and recheck for any loose clamps/hoses afterward.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $210-$590 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.0-3.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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