How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2018 Lexus RX350 (Front & Rear Bank Guide)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2018 Lexus RX350 (Front & Rear Bank Guide)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs
🔧 RX350 - Spark Plug Replacement
On your RX350, replacing spark plugs restores strong ignition, smooth idle, and good fuel economy. The front three plugs are straightforward; the rear three usually require removing the cowl area and the upper intake manifold (the top part of the intake).
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🧯 Work on a fully cool engine to avoid burns and damaged threads.
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental shorting while unplugging coils.
- 🧼 Keep dirt out of the engine—do not let debris fall into spark plug holes.
- ⚠️ Do not use anti-seize on modern plated spark plug threads unless the plug maker specifically calls for it.
- 👀 Wear eye protection when using compressed air or brushing debris.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fender cover
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 10mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 1/4" ratchet
- 3/8" torque wrench (10–60 Nm range)
- 1/4" torque wrench (2–20 Nm range)
- 3/8" extension set (3", 6", 10")
- 3/8" wobble extension
- 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket (3/8" drive)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Small pick tool
- Shop vacuum
- Compressed air blow gun
- Painter’s tape and marker
- Flashlight
- Magnetic pickup tool
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Iridium spark plugs (OEM-equivalent) - Qty: 6
- Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease (for coil boots) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
- 🧽 Use a shop vacuum to clean loose dirt around the top of the engine.
- 🏷️ Use painter’s tape and marker to label any hoses/connectors you unplug (helps first-time DIYers).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Pull the cover upward by hand to release the rubber grommets.
Step 2: Replace the front bank spark plugs (easiest 3)
- Unplug each ignition coil electrical connector by lifting the lock with a small pick tool, then pulling the connector straight off.
- Remove each coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket.
- Twist the coil boot slightly, then pull the coil straight up and out.
- Blow out each spark plug well using compressed air blow gun so debris doesn’t fall into the cylinder.
- Remove the spark plug using a 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket with a 3/8" extension and 3/8" ratchet.
- Install the new spark plug by hand first using the spark plug socket and extension (no ratchet) until it seats. Hand-starting prevents cross-threading.
- Tighten the spark plug with a 3/8" torque wrench: Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
- Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the coil boot (a pea-sized dab).
- Reinstall the ignition coil and tighten the hold-down bolt using a 1/4" torque wrench: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the coil electrical connector (push until it clicks).
Step 3: Make room for the rear bank (cowl area access)
- Remove the wiper arm nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Wiggle the wiper arms off the splines by hand (use gentle rocking; do not pry on the glass with a tool).
- Remove the plastic cowl clips using a trim clip removal tool, then remove the cowl panels by hand.
- If any clips are stubborn, use a flat-blade screwdriver to lift the center pin, then pull the clip out.
Step 4: Remove the air inlet ducting and disconnect the throttle body area
- Loosen duct clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver, then remove the intake ducting by hand.
- Unplug any intake/throttle related connectors by releasing locks with a small pick tool and pulling straight off.
- Label hoses/connectors using painter’s tape and marker so they go back correctly.
Step 5: Remove the upper intake manifold (to reach the rear 3 plugs)
- Remove the upper intake manifold fasteners using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Carefully lift the upper intake manifold up and off by hand.
- Cover the lower intake openings immediately using clean shop towels (prevents dropping anything into the engine).
- Remove old intake gaskets by hand and install the new gaskets (they should sit flat in their grooves).
- Reinstall the upper intake manifold fasteners with a 1/4" torque wrench: Torque to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Replace the rear bank spark plugs (harder 3)
- Repeat the same coil removal steps using a 10mm socket (unplug connector, remove bolt, pull coil).
- Blow out plug wells using the compressed air blow gun.
- Remove each plug using the 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket, 3/8" wobble extension, and 3/8" ratchet.
- Install each new plug by hand first, then torque with a 3/8" torque wrench: Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall coils and torque coil bolts with a 1/4" torque wrench: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
Step 7: Reassemble intake ducting and cowl parts
- Reinstall intake ducting and tighten clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Reconnect every electrical connector (listen/feel for a click).
- Reinstall the cowl panels and clips using a trim clip removal tool (press clips in squarely).
- Reinstall wiper arms and tighten nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it down by hand onto its grommets.
Step 8: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- 🔎 Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- 🧠 If the idle is rough, shut it off and re-check every coil connector and vacuum hose you touched.
- 👃 Listen for hissing (vacuum leak) around the intake manifold area.
- 🚗 Take a short test drive, then re-check for any warning lights.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $80-$220 (parts only)
You Save: $370-$630 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















