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2018 Dodge Charger
2018 Dodge Charger
Daytona - V8 5.7L
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How to Change 5.7L HEMI Spark Plugs | 2017 Dodge Charger RT

How to Change 5.7L HEMI Spark Plugs | 2017 Dodge Charger RT

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Glasses
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How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2018 Dodge Charger 5.7L V8 (16-Plug Service)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, plug gap, coil/plug torque specs, and safety tips

How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2018 Dodge Charger 5.7L V8 (16-Plug Service)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, plug gap, coil/plug torque specs, and safety tips

Orion
Orion

🔧 Charger - Spark Plug Replacement

Replacing the spark plugs on your Charger restores strong ignition, helps prevent misfires, and can improve idle and fuel economy. The job is mostly access and careful reinstallation so you don’t damage the aluminum cylinder heads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🧯 Work on a fully cool engine; hot aluminum threads strip easily.
  • 🧤 Keep dirt out of the plug holes; debris can damage the cylinder.
  • ⚡ If you disconnect the battery, remove the negative cable first to reduce short risk (battery is in the trunk).
  • 🧠 Do not over-tighten spark plugs; always use a torque wrench.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-30 ft-lbs range)
  • 10mm socket
  • 8mm socket
  • 5/8" spark plug socket
  • 3/8" drive extension set (3", 6", 10")
  • 3/8" drive universal joint
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Compressed air blow gun
  • Spark plug gap gauge (wire style)
  • Flashlight

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Spark plugs (5.7L V8) - Qty: 16
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Let the engine cool completely (best is sitting 1-2 hours).
  • If you choose to disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal in the trunk, and keep it from touching the post.
  • Lay out 16 new plugs so you can count what’s installed vs. remaining.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

  • Lift the cover straight up by hand to release the rubber grommets.
  • Set it aside where it won’t get stepped on.

Step 2: Unplug and remove one ignition coil

  • Pick one coil to start with (do one cylinder at a time so nothing gets mixed up).
  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lift the connector lock (if present), then unplug the coil connector.
  • Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the coil retaining bolt.
  • Twist the coil boot slightly, then pull the coil straight up and out.
  • Torque spec (for reassembly): Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)

Step 3: Clean the plug well before removing the plug

  • Use a flashlight to look down the spark plug tube.
  • Use a compressed air blow gun to blow dirt out of the tube so nothing falls into the engine.
  • Tip: Hold a rag near the hole to catch dust.

Step 4: Remove the old spark plug

  • Install a 5/8" spark plug socket on a 3/8" drive extension and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • If access is tight, add a 3/8" drive universal joint to help angle the socket.
  • Turn counterclockwise to loosen, then remove the plug.
  • If it feels very tight, stop and work it slowly to avoid damaging threads.

Step 5: Check and prep the new spark plug

  • Use a spark plug gap gauge (wire style) to verify gap is 1.1 mm (0.043 in).
  • Do not force the ground strap; adjust gently only if needed.
  • Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the coil boot. Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.
  • Do not use anti-seize unless your plug maker specifically requires it (many modern plugs are coated).

Step 6: Install the new spark plug (by hand first)

  • Place the new plug in the 5/8" spark plug socket and carefully lower it into the tube.
  • Thread it in by hand using only the extension (no ratchet at first) to avoid cross-threading.
  • Once it seats, use a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-30 ft-lbs range) to tighten. A torque wrench measures tightening force so you don’t over-tighten.
  • Torque spec: Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Reinstall the ignition coil

  • Push the coil straight down until the boot fully seats on the plug.
  • Install the coil bolt using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet, then tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-30 ft-lbs range).
  • Torque spec: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
  • Reconnect the coil electrical connector until it clicks/locks.

Step 8: Repeat for all cylinders

  • Repeat Steps 2-7 until all 16 spark plugs are replaced.
  • Use your flashlight to confirm no connectors are left unplugged.

Step 9: Reinstall engine cover and reconnect battery (if disconnected)

  • Press the engine cover back onto its mounting grommets by hand.
  • If disconnected, reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and snug it (do not over-tighten).

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds; it should run smooth.
  • Listen for a ticking or puffing sound that could indicate a loose plug or coil not seated.
  • If the check engine light comes on or it runs rough, recheck coil connectors and coil seating.
  • If you have a scan tool, check for misfire codes and clear any stored codes after fixing the cause.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $400-$800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$260 (parts only)

You Save: $280-$540 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.


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