How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2016 Ram ProMaster 1500 3.6L V6 (Torque Specs)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, intake manifold removal tips, and safety checks
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2016 Ram ProMaster 1500 3.6L V6 (Torque Specs)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, intake manifold removal tips, and safety checks
🔧 ProMaster - Spark Plug Replacement
On your ProMaster’s 3.6L V6, the spark plugs fire the air/fuel mix. Replacing worn plugs restores smooth starting, power, and fuel economy, and helps prevent misfires.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-4.0 hours
Assumption: This covers the 3.6L V6 layout where the rear-bank plugs require upper intake removal for access.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a fully cool engine to avoid burns and thread damage in the aluminum heads.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging ignition coils and sensors.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake ports—cover openings with clean rags immediately.
- ⚠️ Do not over-tighten spark plugs; stripped threads are expensive to repair.
- ⚠️ Avoid pulling on wires—release connector locks before unplugging.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension set (3", 6", 12")
- 3/8" drive universal joint
- 5/8" spark plug socket (rubber insert)
- Torque wrench (10–30 ft-lbs range)
- Torque wrench (inch-lb range)
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Trim clip removal tool
- Compressed air blow gun
- Flashlight
- Magnetic pickup tool
- Feeler gauge set
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs (OEM-spec iridium) - Qty: 6
- Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
- Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
- Tip: Take photos before unplugging anything.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Lift the cover straight up to release the rubber grommets (use a trim clip removal tool gently if it’s stuck).
- Set it aside where it won’t get stepped on.
Step 2: Remove the air intake tube
- Loosen the hose clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Unclip/unplug any attached sensor connector(s) using a trim clip removal tool as needed.
- Remove the tube and set it aside.
Step 3: Remove the upper intake manifold (for rear-bank access)
- Unplug intake/throttle body related connectors by releasing the lock tabs (use a trim clip removal tool if needed).
- Disconnect any vacuum/PCV hoses using hose clamp pliers.
- Remove the upper intake manifold fasteners using an 8mm socket and 10mm socket.
- Lift the upper intake manifold off carefully.
- Immediately cover the exposed intake openings with clean rags to prevent anything from falling in.
- Tip: Keep bolts in a labeled cup.
Step 4: Remove ignition coil packs (one cylinder at a time)
- Pick one coil to start with so parts don’t get mixed up.
- Unplug the coil connector (press the tab and pull straight off).
- Remove the coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket.
- Twist the coil slightly and pull it straight out.
- Blow out the spark plug well using a compressed air blow gun so dirt can’t fall into the engine.
Step 5: Remove the old spark plug
- Install a 5/8" spark plug socket (rubber insert) on a 3/8" drive extension and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Loosen the plug counterclockwise and remove it.
- If it feels extremely tight, stop and work it back-and-forth gently to avoid thread damage.
- Tip: A universal joint helps tight angles.
Step 6: Prep and install the new spark plug
- Check the gap with a feeler gauge set (common spec is around 0.043 in; do not force-bend fine-wire iridium tips).
- Start the new plug by hand using the 5/8" spark plug socket and a 3/8" drive extension only (no ratchet) to prevent cross-threading.
- Tighten with a torque wrench (10–30 ft-lbs range): Torque to 13 Nm (10 ft-lbs).
- Tip: If it won’t hand-thread smoothly, stop.
Step 7: Reinstall the ignition coil
- Apply a small smear of dielectric grease inside the coil boot (this helps prevent moisture-related misfires).
- Push the coil straight down onto the plug until fully seated.
- Install the coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket, then tighten with a torque wrench (inch-lb range): Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the coil electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 8: Repeat for all 6 cylinders
- Replace plugs one cylinder at a time to avoid mixing coil locations.
- Use a flashlight to confirm every connector is fully seated.
Step 9: Reinstall the upper intake manifold
- Remove the rags from the intake openings.
- Install new upper intake manifold gasket set (do not reuse flattened gaskets).
- Set the manifold in place and hand-start all fasteners.
- Tighten the fasteners evenly using an 8mm socket and 10mm socket.
- Reconnect all vacuum/PCV hoses using hose clamp pliers.
- Reconnect all electrical connectors until they click.
Step 10: Reinstall the air intake tube and engine cover
- Reinstall the intake tube and tighten clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it down onto the grommets.
Step 11: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It may run rough for a few seconds while it relearns airflow.
- Listen for air leaks (hissing) around the intake manifold and intake tube.
- If the check engine light turns on, re-check coil connectors and vacuum hoses first.
- Test drive 10–15 minutes, then recheck for any loose clamps or smell of fuel/vacuum leak.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $70-$160 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$580 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















