How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2016 Nissan Murano 3.5L V6 (Plenum Removal)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, new gasket tips, and torque specs for all 6 plugs for 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2016 Nissan Murano 3.5L V6 (Plenum Removal)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, new gasket tips, and torque specs for all 6 plugs for 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
🔧 Murano - Spark Plug Replacement
On your Murano’s 3.5L V6, the front 3 spark plugs are easy to reach, but the rear 3 sit under the upper intake manifold (plenum). You’ll remove the plenum to access the rear bank, then replace all 6 plugs and reinstall everything with new gaskets to prevent vacuum leaks.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5–4.5 hours
Assumption: 3.5L V6 (coil-on-plug) with upper intake plenum removal for rear plugs.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cold engine to avoid burns and stripped threads.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake ports—stuff clean rags in openings immediately.
- ⚠️ Do not over-tighten spark plugs; aluminum heads strip easily.
- ⚠️ If you unplug many connectors, label them with tape to avoid mix-ups.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–60 ft-lbs range)
- 1/4" drive torque wrench (inch-lb range)
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 6" extension (3/8" drive)
- 10" extension (3/8" drive)
- Wobble extension (3/8" drive)
- Swivel/universal joint (3/8" drive)
- 5/8" spark plug socket (rubber insert or magnetic)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pick tool
- Pliers
- Trim clip removal tool
- Shop vacuum
- Compressed air blow gun
- Flashlight
- Magnetic pickup tool
- Fender cover
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Iridium spark plugs - Qty: 6
- Upper intake manifold (plenum) gasket set - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the hood.
- Let the engine cool fully (at least 1 hour after driving).
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and tuck it aside.
- Have clean rags ready to cover the intake openings once the plenum comes off.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Pull up on the plastic engine cover to release the grommets, or remove fasteners if equipped using a 10mm socket.
- Set it aside where it won’t get stepped on.
Step 2: Remove the air intake duct (to reach the plenum area)
- Loosen the hose clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
- Unplug the intake sensor connector(s) by lifting the lock tab with a pick tool if needed.
- Remove the duct and place it aside.
- Tip: Don’t pull on wires—pull on connectors.
Step 3: Remove the front bank ignition coils (front 3 plugs)
- One cylinder at a time, unplug the coil connector (use a pick tool gently on the lock tab).
- Remove the coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket.
- Twist the coil slightly and pull it straight up.
- Ignition coil: the pencil-shaped part on top of the plug.
Step 4: Remove the front bank spark plugs
- Blow out the spark plug wells using compressed air blow gun (or vacuum with a shop vacuum) so dirt can’t fall into the engine.
- Remove each plug using a 5/8" spark plug socket, wobble extension (3/8" drive), and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Install the new plug by hand first using the spark plug socket and extension (no ratchet at first) to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 25 N·m (18 ft-lbs).
- Tip: If it doesn’t thread easily, back out and restart.
Step 5: Reinstall the front bank coils
- Apply a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside each coil boot.
- Push the coil straight down until it seats on the plug.
- Install the coil bolt with a 10mm socket, then tighten with a 1/4" drive torque wrench: Torque to 8 N·m (71 in-lbs).
- Plug the connectors back in until they click.
Step 6: Remove the throttle body from the plenum (access for rear bank)
- Unplug the throttle body electrical connector.
- Remove the throttle body mounting bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Carefully move the throttle body aside. Do not pry on the sealing surface.
- Replace the gasket later with a new throttle body gasket.
- Throttle body: where the intake hose meets the engine.
Step 7: Remove the upper intake manifold (plenum)
- Label and disconnect vacuum/EVAP hoses using pliers as needed for spring clamps.
- Unplug any connectors attached to the plenum area (use a flashlight to see locking tabs).
- Remove plenum bolts using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Lift the plenum straight up. If it sticks, wiggle gently—do not force.
- Immediately cover the intake ports with clean rags.
- Reinstall later: Torque plenum bolts to 18 N·m (13 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Remove the rear bank coils
- With the plenum off, unplug each rear coil connector.
- Remove the coil bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Pull each coil straight up and set aside in order.
Step 9: Replace the rear bank spark plugs
- Blow out each spark plug well using the compressed air blow gun.
- Remove the plugs using a 5/8" spark plug socket, swivel/universal joint (3/8" drive), and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Start the new plugs by hand first.
- Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 25 N·m (18 ft-lbs).
- Tip: New iridium plugs are pre-gapped—don’t bend the tip.
Step 10: Reinstall the rear bank coils
- Add a small amount of dielectric grease inside each coil boot.
- Install coils and tighten bolts with a 1/4" drive torque wrench: Torque to 8 N·m (71 in-lbs).
- Reconnect coil connectors until they click.
Step 11: Install new gaskets and reinstall the plenum
- Remove the old plenum gasket(s) using a pick tool.
- Clean the sealing surfaces with a lint-free rag (do not gouge metal).
- Install the new upper intake manifold (plenum) gasket set.
- Set the plenum in place and hand-start all bolts.
- Tighten evenly with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 18 N·m (13 ft-lbs).
- Reconnect all hoses and connectors you labeled.
Step 12: Reinstall the throttle body and intake duct
- Install a new throttle body gasket.
- Bolt the throttle body on using a 10mm socket, then tighten: Torque to 10 N·m (89 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the throttle body connector.
- Reinstall the intake duct and tighten clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
- Reinstall the engine cover.
✅ After Repair
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes. A brief rough idle can happen while it relearns.
- Listen for hissing (vacuum leak) around the plenum/throttle body area.
- If the check engine light turns on, scan for codes and re-check coil connectors and any unplugged sensors.
- Do a short test drive, then recheck for any loose clamps or fuel/vacuum smells.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450–$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $90–$220 (parts only)
You Save: $360–$630 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5–4.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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