Howtoo Logo
2016 Nissan Murano
2009 - 2022 Nissan Murano
V6 3.5L
Bryan specialist avatar

Ask a Mechanic

Get expert help before you buy

Here is everything needed for this repair

See what I can do

Make Money

With HowToo

OnOff

Here is just the beginning of what I can do!

Select one to see me in action

Vehicle Features

Image Vehicle Features

How do I connect my phone to my stereo?

Vehicle Information

Image Vehicle Information

What is my horsepower and torque

Image Recognition

Image Image Recognition

What is this warning light on my dash?

Troubleshooting

Image Troubleshooting

I have a P0300 engine code

Vehicle Recognition

Image Vehicle Recognition

What vehicle is this?

Find shops near you

Image Find shops near you

Find a shop to do this repair

Vehicle Talk

Image Vehicle Talk

What’s your favorite vehicle of all time?

2016 NISSAN MURANO SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT

2016 NISSAN MURANO SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT

Suggested Parts

See all parts background
See All Parts

Tools & Fluids

Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
3/8
3/8
Torque Wrench
See all parts background
See All Tools

How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2016 Nissan Murano 3.5L V6 (Plenum Removal)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, new gasket tips, and torque specs for all 6 plugs for 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2016 Nissan Murano 3.5L V6 (Plenum Removal)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, new gasket tips, and torque specs for all 6 plugs for 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

Orion
Orion

🔧 Murano - Spark Plug Replacement

On your Murano’s 3.5L V6, the front 3 spark plugs are easy to reach, but the rear 3 sit under the upper intake manifold (plenum). You’ll remove the plenum to access the rear bank, then replace all 6 plugs and reinstall everything with new gaskets to prevent vacuum leaks.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5–4.5 hours

Assumption: 3.5L V6 (coil-on-plug) with upper intake plenum removal for rear plugs.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a cold engine to avoid burns and stripped threads.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.
  • ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake ports—stuff clean rags in openings immediately.
  • ⚠️ Do not over-tighten spark plugs; aluminum heads strip easily.
  • ⚠️ If you unplug many connectors, label them with tape to avoid mix-ups.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–60 ft-lbs range)
  • 1/4" drive torque wrench (inch-lb range)
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 6" extension (3/8" drive)
  • 10" extension (3/8" drive)
  • Wobble extension (3/8" drive)
  • Swivel/universal joint (3/8" drive)
  • 5/8" spark plug socket (rubber insert or magnetic)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Pick tool
  • Pliers
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Shop vacuum
  • Compressed air blow gun
  • Flashlight
  • Magnetic pickup tool
  • Fender cover

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Iridium spark plugs - Qty: 6
  • Upper intake manifold (plenum) gasket set - Qty: 1
  • Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the hood.
  • Let the engine cool fully (at least 1 hour after driving).
  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and tuck it aside.
  • Have clean rags ready to cover the intake openings once the plenum comes off.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover

  • Pull up on the plastic engine cover to release the grommets, or remove fasteners if equipped using a 10mm socket.
  • Set it aside where it won’t get stepped on.

Step 2: Remove the air intake duct (to reach the plenum area)

  • Loosen the hose clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
  • Unplug the intake sensor connector(s) by lifting the lock tab with a pick tool if needed.
  • Remove the duct and place it aside.
  • Tip: Don’t pull on wires—pull on connectors.

Step 3: Remove the front bank ignition coils (front 3 plugs)

  • One cylinder at a time, unplug the coil connector (use a pick tool gently on the lock tab).
  • Remove the coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket.
  • Twist the coil slightly and pull it straight up.
  • Ignition coil: the pencil-shaped part on top of the plug.

Step 4: Remove the front bank spark plugs

  • Blow out the spark plug wells using compressed air blow gun (or vacuum with a shop vacuum) so dirt can’t fall into the engine.
  • Remove each plug using a 5/8" spark plug socket, wobble extension (3/8" drive), and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Install the new plug by hand first using the spark plug socket and extension (no ratchet at first) to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 25 N·m (18 ft-lbs).
  • Tip: If it doesn’t thread easily, back out and restart.

Step 5: Reinstall the front bank coils

  • Apply a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside each coil boot.
  • Push the coil straight down until it seats on the plug.
  • Install the coil bolt with a 10mm socket, then tighten with a 1/4" drive torque wrench: Torque to 8 N·m (71 in-lbs).
  • Plug the connectors back in until they click.

Step 6: Remove the throttle body from the plenum (access for rear bank)

  • Unplug the throttle body electrical connector.
  • Remove the throttle body mounting bolts using a 10mm socket.
  • Carefully move the throttle body aside. Do not pry on the sealing surface.
  • Replace the gasket later with a new throttle body gasket.
  • Throttle body: where the intake hose meets the engine.

Step 7: Remove the upper intake manifold (plenum)

  • Label and disconnect vacuum/EVAP hoses using pliers as needed for spring clamps.
  • Unplug any connectors attached to the plenum area (use a flashlight to see locking tabs).
  • Remove plenum bolts using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Lift the plenum straight up. If it sticks, wiggle gently—do not force.
  • Immediately cover the intake ports with clean rags.
  • Reinstall later: Torque plenum bolts to 18 N·m (13 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Remove the rear bank coils

  • With the plenum off, unplug each rear coil connector.
  • Remove the coil bolts using a 10mm socket.
  • Pull each coil straight up and set aside in order.

Step 9: Replace the rear bank spark plugs

  • Blow out each spark plug well using the compressed air blow gun.
  • Remove the plugs using a 5/8" spark plug socket, swivel/universal joint (3/8" drive), and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Start the new plugs by hand first.
  • Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 25 N·m (18 ft-lbs).
  • Tip: New iridium plugs are pre-gapped—don’t bend the tip.

Step 10: Reinstall the rear bank coils

  • Add a small amount of dielectric grease inside each coil boot.
  • Install coils and tighten bolts with a 1/4" drive torque wrench: Torque to 8 N·m (71 in-lbs).
  • Reconnect coil connectors until they click.

Step 11: Install new gaskets and reinstall the plenum

  • Remove the old plenum gasket(s) using a pick tool.
  • Clean the sealing surfaces with a lint-free rag (do not gouge metal).
  • Install the new upper intake manifold (plenum) gasket set.
  • Set the plenum in place and hand-start all bolts.
  • Tighten evenly with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 18 N·m (13 ft-lbs).
  • Reconnect all hoses and connectors you labeled.

Step 12: Reinstall the throttle body and intake duct

  • Install a new throttle body gasket.
  • Bolt the throttle body on using a 10mm socket, then tighten: Torque to 10 N·m (89 in-lbs).
  • Reconnect the throttle body connector.
  • Reinstall the intake duct and tighten clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
  • Reinstall the engine cover.

✅ After Repair

  • Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes. A brief rough idle can happen while it relearns.
  • Listen for hissing (vacuum leak) around the plenum/throttle body area.
  • If the check engine light turns on, scan for codes and re-check coil connectors and any unplugged sensors.
  • Do a short test drive, then recheck for any loose clamps or fuel/vacuum smells.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450–$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $90–$220 (parts only)

You Save: $360–$630 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5–4.5 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Parts
Tools
2016 Nissan Murano
Menu
Videos
Earn