How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2016 Ford Focus (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts list, plug gap checks, and 11 ft-lb (15 Nm) torque specs for a smooth-running engine
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2016 Ford Focus (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts list, plug gap checks, and 11 ft-lb (15 Nm) torque specs for a smooth-running engine


🔧 Focus - Spark Plug Replacement
Replacing the spark plugs on your Focus restores strong ignition, smooth idle, and good fuel economy. On the 2.0L, the plugs sit under the ignition coils (coil-on-plug: one coil directly on each plug), so you’ll remove coils first, then the plugs.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a fully cool engine to avoid burns and damaged threads.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug holes; debris can damage the engine.
- ⚠️ Do not over-tighten spark plugs; the cylinder head is aluminum.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but keep the key OFF and don’t unplug coils with the engine running.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 8mm socket
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (5-30 ft-lbs range)
- 5/8" spark plug socket
- 3/8" drive extension (6")
- Compressed air blow gun
- Feeler gauge set
- Small flat trim tool
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs (OEM-equivalent for 2.0L) - Qty: 4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 (small packet/tube)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, engine OFF, and let the engine cool completely.
- Open the hood and remove any loose items around the engine cover.
- Take a quick photo before unplugging anything.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Use a small flat trim tool to gently lift the cover corners if it’s tight.
- If your cover uses bolts, remove them with an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet, then lift the cover off.
Step 2: Unplug and remove the ignition coils
- One at a time, unplug each coil electrical connector. Use the small flat trim tool only if the lock tab is stubborn.
- Remove the coil hold-down bolt with an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
- Pull the coil straight up and out. Twist gently to break it free.
Step 3: Clean around the spark plug wells
- Blow out dirt from each spark plug hole using compressed air blow gun.
- This prevents grit from falling into the cylinder when the plug comes out.
Step 4: Remove the old spark plugs
- Install the 5/8" spark plug socket on a 3/8" drive extension (6") and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Turn counterclockwise to loosen, then remove the plug the rest of the way by hand (still using the socket).
- Repeat for all 4 cylinders.
Step 5: Check and prep the new spark plugs
- Use a feeler gauge set (thin measuring blades) to verify the plug gap matches the plug manufacturer spec for your engine. Don’t force the gauge.
- Do not apply anti-seize unless your plug manufacturer specifically requires it; most modern plugs have plated threads.
Step 6: Install the new spark plugs and torque them
- Start each plug by hand using the 5/8" spark plug socket and 3/8" drive extension (6") only (no ratchet at first).
- Once finger-tight, torque each plug using a 3/8" drive torque wrench (5-30 ft-lbs range).
- Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Reinstall the ignition coils
- Put a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside each coil boot (dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and boot sticking).
- Push each coil straight down until fully seated on the plug.
- Install the coil bolt using an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet (snug only; small bolts strip easily).
- Reconnect each electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 8: Reinstall the engine cover
- Reinstall the cover and any bolts using an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- If the check engine light comes on or it runs rough, shut it off and re-check that every coil connector is fully clicked in.
- Take a short test drive, then re-check for any fuel/engine smell or unusual noises (there shouldn’t be any).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$80 (parts only)
You Save: $100-$300 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















