How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2015 Ram 1500 V6
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2015 Ram 1500 V6
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Spark Plugs - Replacement
Your 1500 uses a V6 layout with a rear bank that sits under the upper intake manifold, so access is tighter than a simple top-mounted engine. Replacing the spark plugs restores ignition strength, helps with misfires, and can improve idle quality and fuel economy.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on a completely cool engine. Hot aluminum threads can be damaged easily.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing coils or the intake manifold.
- Use care around the fuel and vacuum connections on the intake manifold.
- Do not cross-thread the new plugs. Start each plug by hand.
- Use a torque wrench. Over-tightening can crack the plug or damage the cylinder head.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 3/8-inch extension set
- 3/8-inch spark plug socket
- Torque wrench
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Dielectric grease
- Anti-seize compound
- Gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plug set - Qty: 6
- Intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
- Label connectors before unplugging them.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect power
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the terminal.
Step 2: Remove the intake plumbing
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver or 8mm socket to loosen the air intake clamps.
- Remove the intake tube and any attached breather hoses.
- Remove the air box lid if needed for working room.
Step 3: Remove the throttle body and upper intake manifold
- Use a 8mm socket or 10mm socket to remove the throttle body and intake manifold fasteners.
- Disconnect electrical connectors and vacuum lines carefully.
- Lift the upper intake manifold off and remove the old gasket.
- Install new gaskets during reassembly. Torque to 9 N·m (80 in-lbs) unless the fastener label or service data specifies otherwise.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coils
- Unplug each coil connector.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the coil hold-down bolts.
- Twist each coil gently and pull it straight up.
- Keep coils in cylinder order.
Step 5: Remove the spark plugs
- Use a 3/8-inch spark plug socket with an extension to remove each spark plug.
- Turn each plug slowly at first to make sure it is not binding.
- If a plug feels tight, back it out a little and try again to avoid thread damage.
Step 6: Install the new spark plugs
- Check the gap on the new plugs if they are not pre-gapped.
- Start each plug by hand using the spark plug socket and extension.
- Once seated, tighten with a torque wrench to 13 N·m (115 in-lbs).
- Apply a tiny amount of anti-seize only if the plug maker allows it. Do not overdo it.
Step 7: Reinstall the ignition coils
- Add a small amount of dielectric grease inside each coil boot.
- Push each coil straight onto its plug.
- Install the coil bolts with a 10mm socket and tighten to 7 N·m (62 in-lbs).
- Reconnect all coil connectors.
Step 8: Reinstall the intake manifold
- Set the new intake manifold gasket in place.
- Lower the manifold straight down without pinching the gasket.
- Install the bolts by hand first.
- Tighten the intake manifold fasteners evenly in a crisscross pattern to the factory spec for your engine.
- Reconnect all hoses, vacuum lines, and electrical connectors.
Step 9: Reassemble the intake system
- Reinstall the throttle body and intake tube using the 8mm socket or 10mm socket.
- Make sure every clamp is fully seated and tight.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable with the 10mm socket.
Step 10: Start and verify
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Check for rough running, vacuum leaks, or warning lights.
- Listen for hissing around the intake manifold.
✅ After Repair
- Test drive the truck and confirm smooth acceleration.
- If the check engine light was on, clear codes with a scan tool after the repair.
- Recheck all intake clamps and connectors after the first drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















