🔧 Forte - Spark Plug Replacement

On your Forte, the spark plugs sit under the ignition coils on top of the engine. Replacing them restores smooth starts, fuel economy, and prevents misfires as the plugs wear out over time.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns and thread damage in the aluminum cylinder head.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the plug holes—debris can fall into the cylinder and cause damage.
• ⚠️ Don’t pull on wires; press connector tabs and pull on the connector body.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but disconnecting the negative terminal reduces the chance of an accidental short.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-60 Nm range)
• 3/8" drive extension set (3", 6")
• 5/8" (16mm) spark plug socket
• Small flat trim tool
• Compressed air blow gun
• Dielectric grease
• Feeler gauge set (metric)
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Spark plugs (OEM-equivalent, iridium type) - Qty: 4
• Ignition coil boot (optional, if torn/oil-soaked) - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Let the engine cool fully (warm aluminum threads can strip easier).
• If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Lay out parts in order (cylinder 1-4) so nothing gets mixed up.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Remove any retaining fasteners using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• Lift the cover straight up and set it aside on a clean surface.

Step 2: Unplug and remove the ignition coils

• At each coil, press the electrical connector tab and pull the connector off. Use a small flat trim tool only if needed to gently help the tab. Don’t pry hard—tabs snap easily.
• Remove each coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• Twist the coil slightly, then pull it straight up to remove it. (An ignition coil is the pencil-shaped part that sits on the spark plug and makes the high-voltage spark.)

Step 3: Blow out the spark plug wells

• Use compressed air blow gun to blow dirt out around each spark plug before removal.
• Wipe around the openings with shop towels if needed.

Step 4: Remove the old spark plugs

• Install the 5/8" (16mm) spark plug socket on a 3/8" drive extension set (3", 6") and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lower the socket straight into the plug well and loosen the spark plug.
• Once loose, spin it out carefully and lift it out with the socket.

Step 5: Check the new plug gap (and handle plugs correctly)

• Use a feeler gauge set (metric) to verify the gap matches the specification for your Forte’s engine family/emissions label.
• If your plugs are iridium (common), do not “bend” the fine center electrode—replace the plug if it’s out of spec. Iridium tips are easy to damage.

Step 6: Install the new spark plugs (start by hand)

• Thread each new plug in by hand first using the 5/8" (16mm) spark plug socket and 3/8" drive extension set (3", 6") (no ratchet at first). This helps prevent cross-threading.
• If the plug doesn’t spin in easily, back it out and try again—do not force it.
• Tighten each plug with a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-60 Nm range): Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
• Do not apply anti-seize unless your plug manufacturer specifically requires it (many OEM-style plugs are nickel-plated and designed to go in dry).

Step 7: Reinstall the ignition coils

• Put a very small smear of dielectric grease inside each coil boot. (Dielectric grease is non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and makes boots easier to remove later.)
• Push each coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
• Reinstall the coil hold-down bolts using a 10mm socket and then tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-60 Nm range): Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
• Reconnect each coil electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 8: Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect battery (if disconnected)

• Reinstall the engine cover and any fasteners using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• If you disconnected the battery, reinstall the negative terminal using a 10mm socket and snug it securely.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds. It should be smooth with no shaking.
• If the check engine light comes on or it runs rough, shut it off and re-check: coil connectors fully clicked, coils seated, and no tools left in the engine bay.
• Take a short test drive and confirm normal acceleration with no flashing check engine light.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $160-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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