🔧 Forte - Spark Plug Replacement

On your Forte, the spark plugs sit under the ignition coils on top of the engine. Replacing them restores smooth starting, fuel economy, and helps prevent misfires as the plugs wear over time.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a fully cool engine to avoid burns and to protect the aluminum cylinder head threads.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug holes—debris can fall into the cylinder and cause damage.
• ⚠️ Don’t yank on wiring; press the connector lock tab and pull on the connector body.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but it’s OK to disconnect the negative terminal if you’re worried about accidentally shorting something.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 3/8" extension set (3" and 6")
• 5/8" spark plug socket (rubber insert or магнит)
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
• Small flat screwdriver
• Compressed air blow gun
• Feeler gauge (0.039"-0.043" range)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Spark plugs (iridium, correct for Forte 2.0L) - Qty: 4
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Let the engine cool completely (best: sit 1+ hour after driving).
• Lay out tools and open the new plugs carefully (don’t drop them).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Grip the plastic engine cover with both hands and pull straight up to pop it off its rubber grommets.

Step 2: Unplug the ignition coils

• Use a small flat screwdriver to gently lift/assist the connector lock tab if needed (don’t break it).
• Press the tab and pull the connector straight off each coil.

Step 3: Remove the ignition coils

• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to remove the coil hold-down bolt on each coil.
• Twist the coil slightly, then pull straight up to remove it from the spark plug tube.
• Keep coils in order to reinstall same cylinders.

Step 4: Clean the spark plug wells

• Use compressed air blow gun to blow out each spark plug tube before removing the plug.
• This prevents sand/dirt from falling into the cylinder when the plug comes out.

Step 5: Remove the old spark plugs

• Install the 5/8" spark plug socket on a 3/8" extension and 3/8" ratchet.
• Turn counterclockwise to loosen, then lift the plug out with the socket.
• If one feels stuck, stop and work it gently—don’t force it in an aluminum head.

Step 6: Check and prep the new spark plugs

• Use a feeler gauge (0.039"-0.043" range) to verify the gap is within spec.
• Do not bend or pry on the tiny center electrode on iridium plugs; if the gap is way off, exchange the plug.

Step 7: Install the new spark plugs (start by hand)

• Place a new plug into the 5/8" spark plug socket.
• Use the 3/8" extension only (no ratchet) to thread it in by hand several full turns.
• This helps prevent cross-threading (accidentally cutting new threads).

Step 8: Torque the spark plugs

• Use a torque wrench (3/8" drive) with the 5/8" spark plug socket.
• Tighten each plug to Torque to 18-22 Nm (13-16 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the ignition coils

• Put a small smear of dielectric grease inside the end of each coil boot (a pea-sized amount). Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and boot sticking.
• Push each coil straight down until you feel it seat on the plug.
• Reinstall each coil bolt with a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.

Step 10: Plug the coils back in and reinstall the engine cover

• Reconnect each coil electrical connector until it clicks in place.
• Reinstall the engine cover by aligning it and pressing down firmly.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds; it should run smooth with no flashing check engine light.
• If it runs rough, shut it off and re-check: coil connectors fully clicked in, coils seated, and no tools left in the engine bay.
• If a check engine light stays on, scan for codes—misfire codes often point to a coil connector not fully seated.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$80 (parts only)

You Save: $120-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.