🔧 Escape - Spark Plug Replacement

You’ll be removing the ignition coils on top of the engine and swapping in new spark plugs on your Escape. This restores smooth running, power, and fuel economy, and helps prevent misfires as the plugs wear out.

Difficulty Level: Beginner/Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🔥 Let the engine cool completely; hot engine parts can burn you.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect your eyes and hands.
• 🔌 Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key from the vehicle.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required, but you may disconnect the negative terminal with a 10mm wrench if you want extra safety.
• 🧯 Keep metal tools away from the battery positive terminal to avoid sparks.
• ⚙️ Work in a clean, well-lit area so no dirt falls into the spark plug holes.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" 3/8" drive extension
• 5/8" spark plug socket (with rubber insert or magnet)
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (inch-pound and Nm scale)
• Feeler gauge set (metric and inch)
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Clean rag
• Shop vacuum
• Dielectric grease single-use packet
• Anti-seize compound (spark-plug safe, optional)
• Work light or flashlight
• Mechanic’s gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Spark plugs (correct spec for 1.5L EcoBoost) - Qty: 3
• Ignition coil boots - Qty: 3 (optional but recommended if original)
• Throttle body/intake cleaner spray - Qty: 1 (for light cleaning around area)
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 small tube
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube (only if not pre-coated plugs)
• Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Escape on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Let the engine cool for at least 30–45 minutes so you can touch parts comfortably.
• Open the hood and support it with the hood prop rod.
• Blow or wipe loose dirt away from the top of the engine so debris does not fall into the spark plug holes.
• If you choose to disconnect the battery, use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative (-) terminal and move the cable aside.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Understand the layout

• Stand in front of the Escape and look at the top of the engine; you’ll see a plastic engine cover and, underneath it, three ignition coils (one for each cylinder).
• An ignition coil is the small black unit that sits on top of each spark plug and has a connector plugged into it.

Step 2: Remove the engine cover

• Use your hands to gently pull up on the plastic engine cover; it is usually held by rubber grommets and pops off with a firm pull.
• If there are any fasteners, use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove them first.
• Set the cover aside somewhere clean.

Step 3: Clean around the ignition coils

• Use a shop vacuum to remove dust, leaves, and sand from around the coils.
• Wipe around the area with a clean rag so debris cannot fall into the spark plug holes when coils are removed.
• Clean now to avoid dirt in cylinders

Step 4: Unplug the ignition coil connectors

• On each of the three coils, locate the electrical connector with a small plastic locking tab.
• Use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lift or push the lock tab, then pull the connector straight off the coil by hand.
• Do this for all three coils, one at a time so you remember the orientation.

Step 5: Remove the ignition coils

• Each coil is usually held down with one small bolt.
• Use an 8mm socket and ratchet to remove the bolt from the first coil.
• Gently twist the coil by hand to break any seal, then pull it straight up and out.
• Set the coil somewhere clean; repeat for all three coils.

Step 6: Inspect ignition coils and boots

• Look at the rubber boots at the end of each coil for cracks, oil, or heavy carbon tracking (thin black lines).
• If boots look damaged or very worn, plan to replace them with the new boots you bought.
• Bad boots cause misfires and rough idle

Step 7: Remove the old spark plugs

• Attach the 5/8" spark plug socket to the 6" extension and 3/8" ratchet.
• Carefully lower the socket straight down into the first spark plug well until it seats on the plug.
• Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to loosen the plug; it will feel snug at first, then easier.
• Once fully loose, pull the socket and extension straight up; the plug should come out with it, held by the rubber insert or magnet.
• Repeat this for the other two plugs, one cylinder at a time.

Step 8: Check and set the gap on new plugs

• A feeler gauge is a set of thin metal strips used to measure the gap between the center and side electrode of the spark plug.
• Check your new plugs’ recommended gap (for the 1.5L EcoBoost it is typically around 0.028"–0.031" (0.7–0.8 mm), but confirm on the plug box or specs).
• Use the feeler gauge blade that matches the spec and slide it through the gap; it should be a slight drag, not loose and not very tight.
• If the gap is too small, gently bend the side electrode out using the gauge tool; if too large, gently tap it in a bit.
• Be gentle; do not hit the center electrode

Step 9: Prepare new spark plugs

• If your plugs are not pre-coated, put a tiny smear of anti-seize compound on the threads and then wipe most of it off so only a thin film remains.
• Do not get any anti-seize on the tip or electrodes.
• Many Ford plugs arrive pre-coated; check first

Step 10: Install the new spark plugs (hand-thread first)

• Place a new plug into the 5/8" spark plug socket and lower it carefully into the hole.
• Turn the extension by hand clockwise (without the ratchet) to thread the plug in; you should feel smooth, easy turning.
• If it feels tight or gritty, back it out and start again to avoid cross-threading the aluminum cylinder head.
• Once it is fully seated by hand, attach the ratchet and very gently snug it down.
• Repeat hand-threading for the other two plugs.

Step 11: Torque the spark plugs

• Attach your 3/8" torque wrench to the 5/8" spark plug socket and extension.
• Torque each spark plug to 13 Nm (115 in-lbs) as per Ford spec for this engine.
• Do not overtighten; once the torque wrench clicks, stop.

Step 12: Reinstall ignition coils

• If installing new boots, push them firmly onto the coils first.
• Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the tip of each boot; this helps sealing and future removal.
• Insert each coil straight down onto its spark plug until you feel it seat.
• Install the coil hold-down bolt and tighten with an 8mm socket and ratchet, then torque each to about 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect electrical connectors

• Push each coil connector back on until it clicks and locks.
• Gently tug each connector to be sure it is fully seated.

Step 14: Reinstall the engine cover

• Align the engine cover over the mounting posts.
• Press down firmly with your hands until it snaps into the grommets.
• If there were bolts, reinstall them with a 10mm socket and snug them by hand with the ratchet (no need for heavy torque; about 5–7 Nm is enough).

Step 15: Reconnect battery (if disconnected) and start engine

• If you removed the negative cable, reinstall it on the terminal and tighten with a 10mm socket until snug.
• Start the engine and let it idle; it should start quickly and idle smoothly.
• Listen for any misfires (shaking) or warning lights; there should be none.

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✅ After Repair

• Let the engine idle for a few minutes and then gently rev to about 2000–2500 rpm to confirm smooth response.
• Take a short test drive, paying attention to idle, acceleration, and any check engine light.
• If the check engine light appears or it runs rough, recheck coil connectors and that all coils are fully seated.
• Note your mileage and date so you know when the plugs were last changed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250–$400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60–$120 (parts only)

You Save: $190–$280 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8–1.0 hours.

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