How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2013-2019 Ford Flex (Front & Rear Bank Intake Removal)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for coils and plugs
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2013-2019 Ford Flex (Front & Rear Bank Intake Removal)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for coils and plugs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Flex - Spark Plug Replacement
On your Flex, the spark plugs sit under ignition coils (one coil per plug). The front bank is straightforward; the rear bank usually requires removing the upper intake manifold so you can reach the plugs safely without damaging anything.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns and thread damage in the cylinder head.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the engine: cover intake openings immediately after removing the intake manifold.
- ⚠️ No smoking/open flames—fuel vapors can be present around the intake.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’ll be unplugging multiple connectors for the intake (recommended).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 7mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–30 ft-lbs range)
- 1/4" drive torque wrench (in-lb torque wrench)
- 3/8" drive extension set (3" and 6")
- 5/8" spark plug socket
- Pick tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip removal tool
- Compressed air blow gun
- Shop vacuum
- Masking tape and marker
- Clean rags
- Dielectric grease
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs (OEM equivalent, correct heat range) - Qty: 6
- Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and let the engine cool fully.
- Use masking tape and marker to label any hoses/connectors you remove. It prevents “where does this go?” later.
- Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative (-) cable and move it aside.
- Assumption: rear plugs require upper intake manifold removal (common on the 3.5L transverse layout).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover and open up access
- Pull up to remove the decorative engine cover (it’s usually held by grommets).
- Use a trim clip removal tool as needed so you don’t crack plastic clips.
Step 2: Remove the air intake tube (to make room)
- Use a 7mm socket to loosen the hose clamps on the intake tube.
- Unplug any sensors on the tube by pressing the tab; use a pick tool gently if the lock is stubborn.
- Remove the intake tube and set it aside.
Step 3: Replace the front-bank spark plugs (front of engine)
- Unplug one ignition coil connector at a time (press the tab, then pull).
- Remove the coil hold-down bolt using an 8mm socket.
- Twist the coil boot slightly, then pull the coil straight up and out.
- Blow out the spark plug well using compressed air blow gun so debris can’t fall into the cylinder.
- Remove the spark plug using a 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and extension.
- Install the new plug by lowering it in with the spark plug socket and turning it by hand first (this prevents cross-threading).
- Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs).
- Apply a small dab of dielectric grease inside the coil boot (dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and future sticking).
- Reinstall the coil and bolt with an 8mm socket: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the coil connector until it clicks.
- Repeat for the other front-bank cylinders.
Step 4: Remove the upper intake manifold (to reach the rear plugs)
- Unplug the throttle body connector and any intake-related connectors you can see; use a pick tool carefully for locking tabs.
- Disconnect small vacuum/PCV hoses using needle-nose pliers as needed (move clamps back first).
- Remove the upper intake manifold bolts using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
- Lift the upper intake manifold off gently. If it sticks, use a flathead screwdriver very carefully at a reinforced edge—do not gouge the sealing surfaces.
- Immediately cover the intake openings with clean rags to keep bolts/dirt out of the engine.
Step 5: Replace the rear-bank spark plugs (rear of engine)
- Remove each rear ignition coil: unplug connector, then use an 8mm socket to remove the coil bolt.
- Blow out each plug well using the compressed air blow gun.
- Remove each plug using a 5/8" spark plug socket, extension, and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Install each new plug by hand first, then torque: Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs).
- Add a small amount of dielectric grease inside each coil boot, reinstall coils, and tighten coil bolts: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
- Reconnect each coil connector until it clicks.
Step 6: Reinstall the upper intake manifold with new gaskets
- Remove old intake manifold gaskets. Clean the mating surfaces using clean rags (no scratching).
- Install the new upper intake manifold gaskets.
- Set the upper intake manifold back in place.
- Install bolts finger-tight first using a 10mm socket, then tighten evenly in a crisscross pattern.
- Tighten with a 1/4" drive torque wrench (in-lb torque wrench): Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- If the throttle body was removed, install a new throttle body gasket and tighten fasteners evenly: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Reconnect all hoses and electrical connectors.
Step 7: Reinstall the intake tube and engine cover
- Reinstall the air intake tube and tighten clamps using a 7mm socket.
- Reconnect any sensors you unplugged (listen for the click).
- Press the engine cover back onto its mounts.
Step 8: Reconnect battery
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- Listen for hissing (vacuum leak). If you hear it, re-check intake hoses and manifold seating.
- Road test 10–15 minutes, then re-check for any warning lights.
- Tip: If a check engine light appears, a connector is often not fully clicked in.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$590 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Spark Plug replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 Ford Flex | - | - | - |
| 2018 Ford Flex | - | - | - |
| 2017 Ford Flex | - | - | - |
| 2016 Ford Flex | - | - | - |
| 2015 Ford Flex | - | - | - |
| 2014 Ford Flex | - | - | - |
| 2013 Ford Flex | - | - | - |















