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2014 Ford Escape
2013 - 2015 Ford Escape
Inline 4 2.0L
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How To Change Spark Plugs On Ford Escape 2.0L 2013 - 2019 - Full Walkthrough

How To Change Spark Plugs On Ford Escape 2.0L 2013 - 2019 - Full Walkthrough

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8mm
8mm
Socket
or (5/16")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
5/8"
5/8"
Socket
or (16mm)
3/8
3/8
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6"
6"
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How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2013-2015 Ford Escape 2.0L Turbo (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, gap specs, torque specs, and safety tips

How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2013-2015 Ford Escape 2.0L Turbo (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, gap specs, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015

Orion
Orion

🔧 Escape - Spark Plug Replacement

Replacing the spark plugs on your Escape helps restore smooth idle, good fuel economy, and proper turbocharged engine performance. The 2.0L turbo engine uses one ignition coil per spark plug, so you’ll remove the engine cover, unplug each coil, remove the coils, and replace the plugs one at a time.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before starting; spark plugs thread into the aluminum cylinder head and hot aluminum is easier to damage.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental electrical shorts while unplugging ignition coils.
  • ⚠️ Do not drop dirt into the spark plug wells; debris can fall into the engine when the plug is removed.
  • ⚠️ Replace plugs one cylinder at a time so nothing gets mixed up.
  • ⚠️ Do not use anti-seize unless the spark plug manufacturer specifically requires it; many modern plugs already have coated threads.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 5/8-inch spark plug socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
  • Torque wrench inch-pound capable
  • Spark plug gap gauge
  • Compressed air blow gun
  • Dielectric grease
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Battery terminal wrench 10mm
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Spark plugs - Qty: 4
  • Ignition coil boots - Qty: 4, optional if worn, cracked, oil-soaked, or loose

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Escape on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • ❄️ Make sure the engine is fully cool before removing the spark plugs.
  • 🔋 Use a 10mm battery terminal wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move it aside so it cannot spring back onto the battery post.
  • 🧰 A spark plug socket is a deep socket with a rubber insert or magnet that holds the plug so you can lift it out safely.
  • 🧰 A torque wrench tightens bolts or spark plugs to an exact tightness so you do not strip threads or leave parts loose.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Engine Cover

  • Use both hands to pull upward on the plastic engine cover; it is held by rubber grommets.
  • Set the cover aside in a clean place.
  • Pull straight up, not sideways.

Step 2: Clean Around the Ignition Coils

  • Put on safety glasses.
  • Use a compressed air blow gun to blow loose dirt away from the top of the ignition coils and spark plug wells.
  • This helps keep debris from falling into the engine when the spark plugs are removed.

Step 3: Unplug the First Ignition Coil

  • Start with the ignition coil closest to one end of the engine.
  • Use your fingers to press the electrical connector release tab and pull the connector straight off.
  • If the connector is stubborn, use needle-nose pliers gently on the connector body, not the wires.
  • An ignition coil is the small electrical part that sends spark to the spark plug.

Step 4: Remove the First Ignition Coil

  • Use an 8mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the ignition coil retaining bolt.
  • Twist the coil slightly by hand, then pull it straight up out of the spark plug well.
  • Inspect the rubber boot for cracks, oil, swelling, or burn marks.
  • If reinstalling the same coil, keep it matched to the same cylinder.

Step 5: Remove the Old Spark Plug

  • Use the compressed air blow gun again inside the spark plug well before loosening the plug.
  • Install the 5/8-inch spark plug socket onto the 6-inch extension and 3/8-inch drive ratchet.
  • Turn counterclockwise slowly to loosen the spark plug.
  • Once loose, spin it out by hand using the extension, then lift it out carefully.
  • If the plug feels very tight, stop and apply gentle back-and-forth pressure; do not force it.

Step 6: Check the New Spark Plug

  • Use a spark plug gap gauge to verify the new plug gap is about 0.028-0.031 inch.
  • The gap is the small air space between the center tip and the curved ground strap.
  • Do not pry hard on fine-tip iridium plugs; they can be damaged easily.
  • Make sure the new spark plug matches the old plug’s thread length and seat style before installing.

Step 7: Install the New Spark Plug by Hand

  • Place the new spark plug into the 5/8-inch spark plug socket.
  • Use the 6-inch extension by hand only to thread the spark plug into the cylinder head.
  • Turn clockwise gently until the plug seats.
  • If it does not thread smoothly, remove it and try again; never force it.
  • Hand-starting prevents stripped threads.

Step 8: Torque the Spark Plug

  • Attach the torque wrench to the 5/8-inch spark plug socket and 6-inch extension.
  • Tighten the spark plug to Torque to 15 Nm (133 in-lbs).
  • Do not overtighten; the cylinder head is aluminum and can be damaged.

Step 9: Reinstall the Ignition Coil

  • Apply a small pea-sized amount of dielectric grease inside the end of the ignition coil boot.
  • Dielectric grease is a non-conductive silicone grease that helps keep moisture out of electrical boots.
  • Push the ignition coil straight down onto the new spark plug until fully seated.
  • Use the 8mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the coil retaining bolt to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 10: Repeat for the Remaining Spark Plugs

  • Repeat Steps 3 through 9 for the other three spark plugs.
  • Use the 8mm socket, 5/8-inch spark plug socket, 6-inch extension, ratchet, gap gauge, dielectric grease, and torque wrench for each cylinder.
  • Work one plug and one coil at a time to avoid mixing parts.

Step 11: Reinstall the Engine Cover and Battery Cable

  • Align the plastic engine cover with the rubber mounting points.
  • Push down firmly by hand until the cover is seated.
  • Use the 10mm battery terminal wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
  • Tighten the terminal snugly; do not overtighten the battery clamp.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
  • ✅ The idle may briefly fluctuate after the battery was disconnected, then should smooth out.
  • ✅ Listen for misfires, popping, or a flashing check engine light; shut the engine off if any occur.
  • ✅ Test drive gently for 10-15 minutes and confirm smooth acceleration.
  • ✅ After the test drive, recheck that all ignition coil connectors are fully clicked in place.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $175-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.


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Guide for Spark Plug replace for these Ford vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2015 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2014 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2013 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
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