🔧 Edge - Spark Plug Replacement

On your Edge, the spark plugs sit under the ignition coils on top of the engine. Replacing them restores smooth idle, power, and fuel economy, and helps prevent misfires.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🔥 Work on a fully cool engine to avoid burns and prevent thread damage in the cylinder head.
• 🔌 Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’re nervous about unplugging electrical connectors.
• 🧼 Keep dirt out of the spark plug holes—debris can fall into the cylinder and cause damage.
• ⚠️ Do not use anti-seize on modern plated spark plug threads unless the plug maker specifically says to (it can change torque readings).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 10mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension set (3" and 6")
• 5/8" spark plug socket
• Torque wrench (in-lb or low-range Nm)
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Compressed air blow gun
• Feeler gauge set
• Magnetic pickup tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Spark plugs (2.0L turbo) - Qty: 4
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
• Ignition coil boots (optional, if torn/oil-soaked) - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Let the engine cool completely (best: sit 1–2 hours).
• If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Lay bolts out in order to avoid mix-ups.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover

• Pull up to release the cover from its rubber grommets (some covers use bolts—if yours does, remove them with a 10mm socket).

Step 2: Unplug the ignition coil connectors

• Locate the ignition coils along the top of the engine (one per cylinder).
• Release each electrical connector lock using a small flathead screwdriver, then pull the connector straight off.
• Pull on the connector body, not the wires.

Step 3: Remove the ignition coils

• Remove each coil hold-down bolt using an 8mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and extension.
• Lift and gently twist the coil upward to remove it (the rubber boot grips the plug).
• Place coils in order so they go back to the same cylinder.
• Reinstall spec later: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
• An ignition coil “boot” is the rubber sleeve on the coil.

Step 4: Clean the spark plug wells

• Before removing plugs, blow out each spark plug hole using compressed air blow gun.
• This prevents sand/dirt from dropping into the engine.

Step 5: Remove the old spark plugs

• Use a 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8" ratchet, and the needed extension to loosen and remove each plug.
• If a plug feels stuck, stop and work it gently back and forth to avoid stripping threads.
• Use a magnetic pickup tool if the plug doesn’t come out with the socket.

Step 6: Check the new plug gap (don’t force it)

• Use a feeler gauge set to verify the gap matches the plug’s spec on the box.
• Do not pry on fine-wire/iridium tips to “make it fit.” If the gap is off, exchange the plug.

Step 7: Install and torque the new spark plugs

• Thread each new plug in by hand first using the 5/8" spark plug socket and extension (no ratchet at first).
• Once it seats, torque each plug using a torque wrench: Torque to 15 Nm (133 in-lbs).
• Hand-threading prevents cross-threading.

Step 8: Reinstall coils and connectors

• Apply a small smear of dielectric grease inside each coil boot (helps seal and future removal).
• Push each coil straight down until fully seated on the plug.
• Install coil bolts with an 8mm socket, then use a torque wrench: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
• Reconnect electrical connectors until they click/lock.

Step 9: Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect battery (if removed)

• Reinstall the engine cover (press into grommets, or tighten fasteners with a 10mm socket if equipped).
• If you disconnected the battery, reconnect the negative cable using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should be smooth with no shaking.
• Check that no connectors are left unplugged and no tools are in the engine bay.
• If the check engine light comes on or it runs rough, re-check coil connectors and make sure each coil is fully seated.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.