How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2011-2025 Honda Odyssey (All 6 Plugs, Front & Rear Bank) (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools/parts, intake manifold removal tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2011-2025 Honda Odyssey (All 6 Plugs, Front & Rear Bank) (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools/parts, intake manifold removal tips, and torque specs for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
🔧 Odyssey - Spark Plug Replacement
On your Odyssey, the front 3 spark plugs are easy to reach, but the rear 3 sit under the upper intake manifold (the top “air passage” on the engine). This job replaces all 6 plugs and restores smooth starts, power, and fuel economy.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a fully cool engine to avoid burns and damaged threads.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative cable to prevent accidental shorts.
- ⚠️ Do not over-tighten spark plugs; the cylinder head is aluminum and threads can strip.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake; cover open ports immediately after manifold removal.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension set (3", 6", 10")
- 3/8" drive wobble extension
- 5/8" spark plug socket (rubber insert or магнит type)
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-60 ft-lbs range)
- Flat trim tool
- Phillips screwdriver
- Pliers
- Pick tool
- Compressed air blow gun
- Painter’s tape
- Shop towels
- Magnetic parts tray
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs (OEM-equivalent, correct heat range and reach) - Qty: 6
- Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely (at least 1 hour).
- Use 10mm socket to disconnect the battery negative cable and tuck it aside.
- Use painter’s tape to label any hoses/connectors you unplug. Helps you avoid mix-ups.
- Know these terms: the ignition coil is the pencil-shaped part on each plug; the upper intake manifold is the top aluminum/plastic section feeding air to the rear bank.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover and front-access parts
- Remove the engine cover using your hands and a flat trim tool as needed to release the rubber grommets.
- If the air intake duct/resonator blocks access, loosen clamps and fasteners using a Phillips screwdriver and 10mm socket, then set the duct aside.
Step 2: Replace the front bank (front 3) spark plugs
- Unplug each ignition coil connector by pressing the lock tab; use a pick tool gently if the tab is stubborn.
- Remove each coil hold-down bolt with a 10mm socket, then pull the coil straight up.
- Blow out the spark plug well with compressed air blow gun so debris can’t fall into the cylinder.
- Remove the spark plug using a 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8" ratchet, and extension.
- Install the new spark plug by hand first using the spark plug socket and extension (no ratchet at first). Prevents cross-threading.
- Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 18 N·m (13 ft-lbs).
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside the coil boot (the rubber inside the coil that touches the plug).
- Reinstall the coil and coil bolt with a 10mm socket: Torque to 10 N·m (7 ft-lbs).
- Reconnect the coil connector until it clicks.
Step 3: Clear access for the rear bank (prepare to remove the upper intake)
- Locate the upper intake manifold on top of the engine (the section feeding the rear cylinders).
- Disconnect any vacuum hoses and electrical connectors attached to the upper intake using pliers and a pick tool as needed.
- Use painter’s tape to label each hose/connector you remove.
Step 4: Remove the throttle body from the upper intake
- Unplug the throttle body electrical connector by hand (use a pick tool carefully if needed).
- Remove the throttle body mounting fasteners using a 10mm socket.
- Move the throttle body aside and remove/discard the old throttle body gasket.
- Cover the intake opening with a shop towel to keep dirt out.
Step 5: Remove the upper intake manifold (rear plug access)
- Remove the upper intake manifold fasteners using a 12mm socket and extension.
- Lift the upper intake manifold straight up and off. If it sticks, gently work it loose by hand—do not pry on sealing surfaces.
- Immediately cover the exposed intake ports with shop towels.
- Remove/discard the old upper intake manifold gaskets.
Step 6: Replace the rear bank (rear 3) spark plugs
- Unplug the rear ignition coil connectors (use a pick tool gently if needed).
- Remove coil bolts with a 10mm socket and pull coils out.
- Blow out each plug well using the compressed air blow gun.
- Remove each spark plug using the 5/8" spark plug socket, wobble extension, and 3/8" ratchet.
- Install new plugs by hand first, then torque with a torque wrench: Torque to 18 N·m (13 ft-lbs).
- Add a small amount of dielectric grease inside each coil boot, reinstall coils, and torque coil bolts: Torque to 10 N·m (7 ft-lbs).
- Reconnect all coil connectors until they click.
Step 7: Reinstall the upper intake manifold and throttle body
- Install new upper intake manifold gaskets into place (match them to the grooves/locators).
- Set the upper intake manifold back on evenly by hand.
- Tighten upper intake manifold fasteners using a 12mm socket in a crisscross pattern: Torque to 22 N·m (16 ft-lbs).
- Install a new throttle body gasket, then reinstall the throttle body using a 10mm socket: Torque to 12 N·m (9 ft-lbs).
- Reconnect the throttle body connector and any vacuum hoses/connectors you removed.
Step 8: Reassemble intake ducting and reconnect the battery
- Reinstall the intake ducting using a Phillips screwdriver and 10mm socket.
- Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it onto its grommets.
- Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes. It may idle slightly high for a short time after intake/throttle work.
- Listen for hissing (vacuum leak sound). If you hear it, re-check the hoses and intake seating.
- Test drive 10 minutes, then recheck for warning lights and any fuel smell.
- If a check engine light comes on, don’t keep driving—scan the codes and I’ll help you pinpoint what was missed.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $90-$220 (parts only)
You Save: $360-$630 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Spark Plug replace for these Honda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2025 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2024 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2023 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2022 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2021 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2020 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2019 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2018 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2017 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2016 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2015 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2014 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2013 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2012 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2011 Honda Odyssey | - | V6 3.5L | - |


















