🔧 1500 - Spark Plug Replacement

Your 5.7L HEMI uses 16 spark plugs (two per cylinder). Replacing them restores smooth running, helps prevent misfires, and keeps fuel economy where it should be.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-4.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cold engine; hot aluminum threads can be damaged.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm wrench to avoid accidental shorts.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the engine: blow out each plug well before removing the plug.
• ⚠️ Do not over-tighten spark plugs; use a torque wrench.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 10mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Extension set (3/8")
• Universal swivel joint (3/8")
• 5/8" spark plug socket (rubber insert or магнит type)
• Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range foot-pound)
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Compressed air blow gun
• Feeler gauge (spark plug gap gauge)
• Pickup tool (magnet) (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Spark plugs (correct type for 5.7L HEMI) - Qty: 16
• Dielectric grease (spark plug boot grease) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and let the engine cool completely.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items around the engine bay.
• Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable and tuck it aside.
• Do one coil/plug at a time to avoid mix-ups.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover and intake tube (if it blocks access)

• If equipped, lift off the engine cover by hand (it pulls up from rubber grommets).
• If the intake tube/resonator blocks access, loosen clamps using a small flathead screwdriver and move the tube aside.

Step 2: Unplug one ignition coil

• Locate an ignition coil on top of the valve cover (one per cylinder). The coil sits over the spark plug.
• Press the connector lock and unplug it. Use a small flathead screwdriver gently if the lock tab is stubborn.
• Don’t pull on wires—pull on the connector body.

Step 3: Remove the coil and boot

• Remove the coil mounting bolt using a 10mm socket and ratchet (3/8").
• Twist the coil slightly, then pull it straight up to remove it.
• This exposes the spark plug “well” (a deep tube down to the plug).

Step 4: Clean the plug well

• Blow compressed air into the spark plug well using a compressed air blow gun to remove dust/sand.
• This prevents debris from falling into the cylinder.

Step 5: Remove the old spark plug

• Install a 5/8" spark plug socket on your extension set (3/8") and ratchet (3/8").
• Use a universal swivel joint (3/8") if the angle is tight.
• Turn counterclockwise to loosen and remove the plug.
• If it feels stuck, stop and work it gently; don’t force it.

Step 6: Check and set the new plug gap

• Use a feeler gauge (spark plug gap gauge) to verify gap.
• Set gap to 0.043 in (1.1 mm) unless your plug box label specifies otherwise for your application.
• Never pry on the center electrode.

Step 7: Install the new spark plug (start by hand)

• Place the new plug into the 5/8" spark plug socket so it holds the plug straight.
• Lower it into the well using the extension set (3/8").
• Thread it in by hand first (turn clockwise using only the extension, no ratchet at first). If it doesn’t thread smoothly, back out and try again.

Step 8: Torque the spark plug

• Use a torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range foot-pound) to tighten the plug.
• Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)
• Over-tightening can strip aluminum threads.

Step 9: Reinstall the coil

• Apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease inside the end of the coil boot (this helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier).
• Push the coil straight down until it fully seats on the plug.
• Install the coil bolt using a 10mm socket and ratchet (3/8").
• Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
• Reconnect the coil electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 10: Repeat for all remaining plugs

• Repeat Steps 2–9 for each cylinder.
• Your HEMI has 16 plugs total (two plugs per cylinder), so keep going until all are replaced.
• Use the pickup tool (magnet) (specialty) if you drop a bolt (don’t leave hardware in the engine bay).

Step 11: Reassemble and reconnect battery

• Reinstall the intake tube/clamps using a small flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall the engine cover (press it onto the grommets).
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
• Listen for ticking/air leaks around the intake tube area you moved.
• If the check engine light is on, scan for codes; a common issue is a coil connector not fully clicked in.
• Do a short test drive and recheck for any warning lights.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.0-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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