How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2011-2021 Ford Explorer (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2011-2021 Ford Explorer (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Spark Plugs - Replacement
Replacing the spark plugs on your Explorer means removing the ignition coils, swapping all six plugs, and reinstalling everything to the correct torque. Fresh plugs help restore smooth idle, easier starts, and better fuel economy.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on a fully cooled engine. Hot aluminum cylinder heads can be damaged if plugs are removed too early.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching ignition coils. This helps prevent accidental spark and fault codes.
- Do not use anti-seize unless the plug manufacturer specifically calls for it. Most modern plugs are pre-coated.
- Do not over-tighten spark plugs. The cylinder head threads can be damaged easily.
- Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells. If debris falls in, clean it out before removing the plug.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 8mm socket
- 5/8-inch spark plug socket
- 6-inch extension
- 10mm socket
- Torque wrench
- Gap tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Trim clip tool
- Magnetic pickup tool
- Shop vacuum
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs - Qty: 6
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool completely.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting.
- Remove the engine cover if equipped.
- Label coil connectors if needed.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Use your hands to lift off the plastic engine cover if equipped.
- If it is tight, gently pry up with a flathead screwdriver at the retaining points.
Step 2: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the post.
Step 3: Remove the intake ducting if it blocks access
- Use a flathead screwdriver or trim clip tool to release any clamps or clips.
- Remove the air intake tube if it prevents access to the rear ignition coils.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coils
- Disconnect each coil electrical connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling straight off.
- Use an 8mm socket to remove each coil hold-down bolt.
- Twist each coil slightly, then pull it straight up.
- Do one cylinder at a time.
Step 5: Clean the plug wells
- Use a shop vacuum to remove dirt and debris from each spark plug well.
- If needed, use compressed air carefully before removing plugs.
Step 6: Remove the old spark plugs
- Use a 5/8-inch spark plug socket, 6-inch extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen each plug.
- Turn counterclockwise and remove each plug by hand once it breaks free.
- If a plug feels stuck, work it gently. Do not force it.
Step 7: Check and set the gap on the new plugs
- Use a gap tool to verify each new plug matches the factory gap.
- Adjust only if the plug type allows it.
- Never pry on fine-wire tips.
Step 8: Install the new spark plugs
- Start each plug by hand using the spark plug socket and extension.
- Thread them in slowly to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten each plug to 13 Nm (10 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reinstall the ignition coils
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside each coil boot.
- Push each coil down onto its plug until fully seated.
- Install the coil bolt with an 8mm socket and tighten to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
- Reconnect each electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 10: Reinstall removed intake parts and cover
- Reinstall the intake ducting and tighten any clamps with a flathead screwdriver if needed.
- Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it into place.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and listen for smooth idle.
- Check the dash for a misfire light or check engine light.
- If the engine runs rough, recheck every coil connector and plug connection.
- Test drive for a few miles and confirm normal acceleration.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $240-$420 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Dielectric Grease replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2021 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.3L | - |
| 2020 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.3L | - |
| 2019 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2018 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2017 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2016 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2015 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2014 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2013 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2012 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2011 Ford Explorer | - | V6 3.5L | - |

















