How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2011-2017 Ford F-150 (Engine: V8 5.0L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2011-2017 Ford F-150 (Engine: V8 5.0L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips
🔧 Spark Plugs - Replacement
Your F-150 uses coil-on-plug ignition, so each spark plug sits under its own ignition coil. The job is straightforward, but the plugs must come out on a fully cold engine to reduce the chance of thread damage in the aluminum heads.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine cool completely before starting. Hot aluminum threads can strip more easily.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing ignition coils.
- Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells. Debris can fall into the cylinder if not cleaned first.
- Do not use power tools to install spark plugs.
- Use the correct torque. Overtightening can damage the cylinder head.
- Tip: Work on one cylinder at a time.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 1/4-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 6-inch extension
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 5/8-inch spark plug socket
- Torque wrench
- Flat trim tool
- Compressed air or air blower
- Dielectric grease
- Gloves
- Safety glasses
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs - Qty: 8
- Ignition coil boots - Qty: 8, replace if torn or oil-soaked
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting.
- Open the hood and clean around the coil and plug areas before removal.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove engine cover and intake ducting
- Use a flat trim tool to lift off the engine cover, if equipped.
- Use an 8mm socket to loosen the air intake clamp and remove any ducting blocking access.
- Set the parts aside in order so they go back the same way.
Step 2: Disconnect battery power
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back to the terminal.
Step 3: Remove the ignition coil from one cylinder
- Use an 8mm socket to remove the ignition coil hold-down bolt.
- Pull the coil straight up and out by hand.
- Tip: Twist slightly if the boot sticks.
Step 4: Clean the spark plug well
- Use compressed air or an air blower to clear dirt from the spark plug well.
- Make sure no debris can fall into the cylinder when the plug comes out.
Step 5: Remove the old spark plug
- Use a 5/8-inch spark plug socket, 6-inch extension, and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to loosen and remove the spark plug.
- Turn slowly at first. If it feels tight, stop and work it back and forth gently.
- If a plug feels stuck, do not force it.
Step 6: Install the new spark plug
- Check that the new spark plug is the correct type and is pre-gapped.
- Thread it in by hand first using the 5/8-inch spark plug socket and extension.
- Once seated, use a torque wrench to tighten to 13 Nm (115 in-lbs).
- Tip: Hand-starting prevents cross-threading.
Step 7: Reinstall the ignition coil
- Add a small amount of dielectric grease inside the coil boot if desired.
- Push the coil straight down onto the spark plug.
- Use an 8mm socket to install the coil hold-down bolt and tighten snugly. Do not overtighten.
Step 8: Repeat for all cylinders
- Repeat Steps 3 through 7 for the remaining 7 spark plugs.
- Work one cylinder at a time so parts do not get mixed up.
Step 9: Reinstall intake parts and reconnect battery
- Reinstall any intake ducting and tighten the clamp with an 8mm socket.
- Reinstall the engine cover, if equipped.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and listen for a smooth idle.
- Check the dash for a misfire or check engine light.
- If the engine runs rough, recheck coil seating and plug torque.
- Take a short test drive and make sure acceleration feels normal.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$340 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















