How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2010-2022 Ford F-150
Step-by-step guide with tools, torque specs, safety tips, and DIY repair cost
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2010-2022 Ford F-150
Step-by-step guide with tools, torque specs, safety tips, and DIY repair cost
🔧 Spark Plugs - Replacement
On your F-150, the spark plugs are individual coil-on-plug units, so the job is mostly about gaining access, removing each ignition coil, and swapping the plugs one cylinder at a time. Take your time and keep dirt out of the plug wells so nothing falls into the engine.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on a completely cool engine. Hot aluminum cylinder heads can damage threads.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing coils. This reduces the chance of misfire codes.
- Do not blow debris into the spark plug wells. Clean the area first.
- Do not use anti-seize on new plugs unless the plug manufacturer specifically says to. Most plated plugs do not need it.
- Use a torque wrench. Over-tightening can strip the threads in the cylinder head.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 1/4-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 6-inch extension
- 10-inch extension
- Spark plug socket, 5/8-inch
- Torque wrench
- Flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Compressed air or hand blower
- Feeler gauge
- Dielectric grease
- Safety glasses
- Gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs - Qty: 6
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully before starting.
- Open the hood and remove any loose covers or items around the engine bay.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable with the 10mm socket.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover and intake ducting
- Use a flat trim tool or by hand to lift off the engine cover if equipped.
- Use the 8mm socket to loosen the clamps on the air intake tube.
- Disconnect any breather or sensor connectors attached to the intake tube.
- Remove the intake tube to create working room.
Step 2: Disconnect the ignition coils
- Locate the six ignition coils on top of the engine.
- Use your fingers or needle-nose pliers to release each electrical connector tab if needed.
- Unplug each coil connector carefully.
- Keep each coil matched to its cylinder.
Step 3: Remove the ignition coils
- Use the 8mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the coil hold-down bolts.
- Twist each coil slightly, then pull it straight up.
- Set the coils aside in order so they go back in the same spots.
Step 4: Clean the spark plug wells
- Use compressed air or a hand blower to clean dirt from each plug well.
- Make sure nothing can fall into the cylinder when the plug comes out.
Step 5: Remove the old spark plugs
- Use the 5/8-inch spark plug socket, extension, and ratchet to loosen each plug.
- Turn slowly at first. If a plug feels tight, work it back and forth gently.
- Remove one plug at a time and compare it to the new one.
Step 6: Prepare and install the new spark plugs
- Check the gap on each new plug with a feeler gauge. Set to the plug spec if adjustment is needed.
- Start each plug by hand using the socket and extension only. This helps prevent cross-threading.
- Once seated by hand, use a torque wrench to tighten each plug to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs).
- Hand-start every plug.
Step 7: Reinstall the ignition coils
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside each coil boot if desired.
- Push each coil straight down onto its spark plug.
- Install the coil bolts with the 8mm socket and tighten to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Reconnect each coil electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 8: Reinstall the intake ducting and cover
- Reinstall the intake tube and tighten the clamps with the 8mm socket.
- Reconnect any hoses or sensors you removed.
- Reinstall the engine cover if equipped.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable with the 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Listen for smooth operation and check for a rough idle or misfire.
- If the check engine light is on, scan for codes and clear them after confirming the repair.
- Take a short test drive and make sure acceleration feels normal.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $240-$420 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















