🔧 SRX - Spark Plug Replacement

On your SRX, the front-bank spark plugs are straightforward, but the rear-bank plugs sit under the upper intake manifold. You’ll remove a few intake parts to reach all 6 plugs, then reinstall everything carefully to avoid vacuum leaks and misfires.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a fully cool engine; the rear bank gets very hot.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake—cover openings with clean shop rags immediately.
• ⚠️ Do not use anti-seize on plated OEM-style plugs; it can cause over-tightening.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 3/8" ratchet
• 3/8" torque wrench (10–30 ft-lbs range)
• 5/8" spark plug socket (rubber insert)
• 3/8" drive extension set (3", 6", 10")
• 3/8" universal joint
• 7mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Compressed air blow gun
• Shop rags
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Spark plugs (iridium, OEM-equivalent) - Qty: 6
• Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
• Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and tuck it aside.
• Use a paint marker to mark any hoses/connectors you unplug so they go back to the same place. This prevents vacuum-leak mistakes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover and intake duct

• Pull up to remove the engine cover (it’s held by push-on grommets).
• Use a 7mm socket (or flat-blade screwdriver) to loosen the air duct clamps.
• Unplug the MAF sensor connector (press the lock tab), then lift the duct out.

Step 2: Replace the front-bank spark plugs (easy side)

• Locate the front three ignition coils (each sits on top of a plug).
• Unplug each coil electrical connector (press tab, pull straight back).
• Use a 10mm socket to remove each coil bolt, then pull the coil straight up.
• Blow out the spark plug well using compressed air blow gun so debris can’t fall into the cylinder.
• Use a 5/8" spark plug socket with a 3/8" extension and ratchet to remove the spark plug.
• Install the new plug by hand first using the spark plug socket and extension (no ratchet) to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten: Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs). (A torque wrench is a tool that tightens to an exact safe value.)
• Put a small amount of dielectric grease inside the coil boot, reinstall the coil, and tighten the coil bolt snugly with the 10mm socket.

Step 3: Remove components to access the rear-bank spark plugs

• Unplug the throttle body electrical connector and any sensors attached to the intake area (use the lock tabs; don’t yank wires).
• Use trim clip removal tool and needle-nose pliers as needed to release hose clips and retainers.
• Remove the throttle body from the intake using an 8mm socket (set it aside carefully).
• Disconnect the PCV/vacuum hoses and brake booster vacuum line from the upper intake manifold (twist gently to break the seal).
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the upper intake manifold bolts.
• Lift the upper intake manifold off and immediately cover the lower intake openings with shop rags.
• Tip: Take a quick photo before unplugging hoses.

Step 4: Replace the rear-bank spark plugs (under the manifold)

• Unplug the rear three ignition coil connectors.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the coil bolts, then pull the coils straight up.
• Blow out each spark plug well using the compressed air blow gun.
• Use a 5/8" spark plug socket, extensions, and a universal joint to remove the plugs.
• Thread new plugs in by hand first, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs).
• Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside each coil boot and reinstall coils.

Step 5: Reinstall the upper intake manifold and throttle body

• Remove the shop rags from the intake ports.
• Install the new upper intake manifold gaskets (make sure they sit flat and fully in their grooves).
• Set the upper intake manifold back in place evenly (don’t pinch any wiring).
• Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts using a 10mm socket in an even crisscross pattern.
• Torque: Tighten to OEM specification using a torque wrench (spec varies by fastener set; use service data if available).
• Install the throttle body with a new throttle body gasket and tighten bolts with an 8mm socket.
• Torque: Tighten to OEM specification using a torque wrench.
• Reconnect all hoses and electrical connectors (use your markings/photos).

Step 6: Reinstall the intake duct and engine cover

• Reinstall the intake duct and tighten the clamps using a 7mm socket.
• Reconnect the MAF sensor connector.
• Press the engine cover back onto its grommets.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes.
• Listen for hissing (vacuum leak) and watch for a check engine light.
• If the idle is rough, shut it off and recheck coil connectors and vacuum hoses.
• Take a short test drive, then recheck for any loose clamps or fuel/vacuum smells.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $70-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $280-$780 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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